Lighter/thinner or heavier/thicker?

Masterblaster - Uhh, thanks for your productive comment.

BostonBull and allmark - This time sincerely, thanks for your productive comments.

Riggs - I respect your opinion, and under different circumstances this would be my approach. But a combination of forces have led me to tackle this one myself.
 
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Masterblaster - Uhh, thanks for your productive comment.

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Really? I did that? Cool.

I thought I was bitching about the homeowner.

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Ahh, and a clever wit, too.

Anybody else out there have an opinion on the value of MasterBlaster's comments? Seems to me his unhelpful, sarcastic, negative energy is not in the spirit of these forums.
 
EDude,

First off you must be dutch, or scottish.....squeeze the nickle 'till the beaver bleeds. (Canadians have a beaver on the nickle)

Second, you NEED a mentor in this business, and hopefully a good one. A forum is not a mentor. A guy I occsionally do custon climbing for, was like yourself, wanted to climb and make some money. (I KNOW you'll start doing side jobs, why not you have the gear, all you need is one friend or family member to ask) He took 2, 3 day weekend courses at a local college. (courses were designed as 'refresher' courses for pros) That summer he quit his career as a teacher and started a self taught tree business. His very first summer around Sept. he had a tree fail and rode the pole down from 35 feet. Shattered his pelvis, crushed his legs to the point where the docs wanted to amputate, but they didn't. You NEED a mentor, I had probably a dozen.

I know if I were to tackle a highway building project, or a steel building, I would make a mockery of the engineering profesion. Food for thought.
 
Well I've been using the Butterfly 2 saddle for several weeks now and love it. My first saddle was a Petzl Navaho and I realy liked it. I wont climb on anything but Yale's Blaze rope. I use either the Bee line by Yale or Hrc by New England for prussics. I use a variety of prussics. I use a homemade Ropeguide or a 2 ring frictionsaver evory time I climb(except for when I use a floating tip). Zing-it with an 8 or 10 oz bag is the only way for me to set a line. Thats my setup and i'm sticking to it (until I find something better)
 
Oh I forgot ,with the exception of my footlocking prussic, all my 'beaners are Petzl ball lock, and long splices on all my ropes.
Hope you find some use for my setup. If you have any questions please pm me.
 
Edude,

Listen to the collective wisdom, get a mentor to learn from. Learning to climb trees AND run a chainsaw is like learning to swim by being tossed off the boat...

Learn to climb...then learn to run a saw and make proper felling cuts...then find a mentor to teach you how to work in the trees with a saw.

We all want you to add to your post count :)
 
Mangoes and sarumono, thanks for your productive input. It is much appreciated.

At this point I'm abandoning this thread and a parallel thread on arboristsite.com

It'll take a couple of days before I come to a final conclusion as to how to proceed. I'm told that the communities on these sites are "not really very impressed". Not 100% sure how to interpret that, but it's clear this pursuit isn't going where I expected it would.

Thanks to all who have provided productive comments.
 
Hey there Mr. Engineer.
Being thorough, intelligent, and careful are excellent traits for doing tree work. But you know that it really doesn't mean you can study hard, prepare intensively, and then do a good job on something that you haven't ever done before. Now, I looked at the pictures of the tree, it doesn't look too huge, though very dead (the dryness of the wood has a huge impact on it's working properties), and you could very well take down the tree without hurting yourself seriously, or possibly at all. But really, does that mean that you should try? So much of what makes one adept at something like this is figuring out all of the subtleties involved, all the different properties of different species of wood at different stages of life or death, the reaction when weight is falling off of a tree you are tied to, or the reaction when the tree catches a falling weight, the importance of accurate cutting, the little safety checks that become so automatic, understanding the ropes, knots, and I don't need to go on. I'll only say that while you probably can do it, it would probably be much safer and more fulfilling if you can find someone knowledgeable (sometimes hard enough) to help you out. But if your ultimate interest is recreational tree climbing, why bother doing removals, it's really totally different.
 
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Ahh, and a clever wit, too.

Anybody else out there have an opinion on the value of MasterBlaster's comments? Seems to me his unhelpful, sarcastic, negative energy is not in the spirit of these forums.

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E-dude,

IN the off-chance that you do come back or check for late entries, here goes.

You've only been on this thread for two days. Many of us have worked for decades to become the skilled arbos that we are. Along the way, we've all had close calls and may even know of serious injuries and deaths. Do you really think that any of us are really concernec about missing out on a paying job?

Think about this...you say that you're an engineer. I know that is a wide brush. But! Most of the people that I've known who are engineers are pretty dang bright. It takes a bit of education and real smarts to get certified. What engineering discipline do you practice? What kind of advice would you give me or any other "civilian" about making a stab into your field? What is the result of bad engineering? The same as bad arbo practices.

Doing takedowns as a path to recreational tree climbing is not a good plan. There are several people who have come into the Treebuzz Cafe to learn about tree climbing. They pick up some hints, practice low and slow and start to prune out the deadwood along the limbs that they're rec climbing. The natural progression is then to cut incrementally larger branches, with a handsaw, picking up the skills and knowledge that will keep you alive. You're dodging some VERY important steps.

Take Riggsies advice, hire a pro and work as a groundie, you're more likely to go home walking and able to participate here for years to come. Your children/wife/family/friends will all be happy that you did.
 
Allmost all of the input has been very productive. Unfortunatly, as in life, sometimes the most productive info is the info we choose not to partake of.
 
Well said Tom and Sarumono. Excellent advice.

And if I may be so bold as to proffer my own humble opinion.....

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As far as your original question goes: it really is a matter of personal preference. The Arbormaster is excellent line and is what I am using right now. However, I will probably be switching over to an 11mm line when I am ready for a new rope.

As far as saddles go, I recommend a work saddle from New Tribe(www.newtribe.com). They are lightweight, extremely comfortable, very durable, and good for both work and play.
 
Engineerdude I will be bringing anemployee to Syracuse in Octoberfor the Abormaster training. Iwould be happy to meet you before if you wanted someone else around with safety and experiencein mind. Im from Albany. It is a quick drive for meand would be happy to help out. You can emailme if you would like. Look forward tomeeting you.
 
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...but it's clear this pursuit isn't going where I expected it would.

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EngineerDude, let's try a different approach. Let's do a small experiment.

Could you provide me with the URL for your favorite engineering forum? I will sign up as a new user and post the following message:

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Hello everyone,

I need a new bridge in my farm lane. Although I am not an engineer, I have read the Bridge Builders Companion and have a good conceptual grasp of load bearing and material stress. I already own my own calculator and CAD software, and am quite familiar with their use. By doing the job myself, I will acquire a lot of equipment that I can use in other areas of my property and save a few bucks in the process.

The bridge will be small and only needs to span a 10' wide creek. It will get very little traffic; just cars, farm equipment, delivery trucks, and an occasional log truck.

What equipment do you recommend I purchase to build this bridge? What materials should I use? I'm thinking that re-bar enforced concrete would be best.

All constructive comments are appreciated.
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EngineerDude, would you care to take a wild guess at the responses I might get? Do you think they would be anywhere near as constructive and helpful as the ones you received here?
 
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Anybody else out there have an opinion on the value of MasterBlaster's comments?

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I value his comments. Check out his website.
Is Kevin right? I'd also try to set a line and pull that *itch over if you can.
 

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