Large Oak Tree

This tree had some large stuff that definitely needed going so I did that, also some of the lower stuff off of those larger lower limbs that was dead.

But I did leave some misc. stuff. Like for instance on the backside there was some dead pieces but they were going out over the neighboring trees where the wood line is. I thought trying to cut it might potentially create more of a hazard if it was to get hung up in those other trees when it went. So I figured it isn’t hurting anything and it’s away from the house.
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
This tree had some large stuff that definitely needed going so I did that, also some of the lower stuff off of those larger lower limbs that was dead.

But I did leave some misc. stuff. Like for instance on the backside there was some dead pieces but they were going out over the neighboring trees where the wood line is. I thought trying to cut it might potentially create more of a hazard if it was to get hung up in those other trees when it went. So I figured it isn’t hurting anything and it’s away from the house.
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we spec to 3” diameter deadwooding, figuring anything less than that isn’t much of a hazard, and if you get it that’s great and if you don’t, you don’t :)
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
Unless a customer states they want every single piece of deadwood removed, to what extent do you guy's chase every little piece all the way out to the tips of branches, etc. on an oak like this espcially when it is in a wide open area?
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Depends on the goal. Dead wood is valuable to the tree and aids in mass dampening.

I will write up the diameter or location of the work. “Remove all dead 2” (1.5-2”) or greater on main stem” is something I commonly write down (comfier land).
Some trees like deodar are nearly dependent on their dead, over pruning of dead can literally lead to failures. They can look nice though, but sometimes they look gutted and lions tailed just from meticulous deadwooding
 
I've done one "ALL Deadwood" on a 45' tall red maple prune- sold by an oblivious/unkind landscaper I used to work for- pruned to about 3/8" then went back for the rest when client wasn't satisfied
 
southsoundtree said:
@evo Can you say more about deodars, please?
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What would you like to know?
They have a HUGE natural range, with ALOT of genetic variability. Not unlike doug fir..
they have similar characteristics in lumber quality, very strong structural wood. Yet fairly weak brittle limbs.
Most failures have a strong torsional element.
They seem to do TO well in the PNW likely outgrowing or pacing their native counterparts (more arid and cold than we have).
They are very sensitive to mass dampening.
Thoughtless reductions frequently lead to failures (ie, not taking equal weight on right and left secondary laterals as well as tip weight). I know because I’ve done it. Literally watching the limb twist as the weight is removed. BUT there is almost always a twig reduction can be taken two in identical limb growth direction.
They retain their dead wood like a pin oak, and become very dependent on crossing rubbing within the crown structure to limit movement. Heavy deadwooding simply amounts to lions tailing as they shade themselves out, also deadwood checks the swing of other live limbs.
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
I should add, I'm in the MA / CT area.
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I’m in RI. We do not have a concern for Oak Wilt at this point.

We do not prune Maples or Birches when they will bleed. We also do not prune Elms when the bark beetle is an active vector for DED.
 
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