Large Oak Tree

If it doesn’t say it’s a threat than I would think I should be able to confidently go forward with the work now without delaying until November and any additional work that comes in down the road during spring / summer as long as I keep an eye on that site and check it regularly.

I mean I could go further and start contacting local town tree wardens, call the DCR, etc. to see if anyone has gotten any reports of oak wilt but at what point does due diligence and wanting to make good decisions become overthinking things?
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
If it doesn’t say it’s a threat than I would think I should be able to confidently go forward with the work now without delaying until November and any additional work that comes in down the road during spring / summer as long as I keep an eye on that site and check it regularly.

I mean I could go further and start contacting local town tree wardens, call the DCR, etc. to see if anyone has gotten any reports of oak wilt but at what point does due diligence and wanting to make good decisions become overthinking things?
Click to expand...
It will probably be fine, especially just removing dead wood, but are you going to starve if you don't do it?

Around Michigan, you could prune it today and come back in July to cut the entire thing down, because that's about how long it takes for oak wilt to kill it.
 
Would it be the end? No. But the majority of my work is pruning (by choice) so if I don’t actually have to delay a job then why do it? I currently have two projects pending that are oak trims. This one which is just deadwood. And the other is trimming back some lower branches to create clearance near a gutter / roof line.

All very minimal trimming. I pretty much take that approach with any tree. Only take off what is absolutely necessary depending on the clients wants / what’s best for the tree.

I sent an email to that director of the DCR.

In the meantime both projects are scheduled for sometime within the next 1-3 weeks. If I hear back before then and find out it could be an issue, I’ll talk to the customers. But if I don’t, I think I need to just move forward and trust that I did my research.
 
Tuebor said:
It will probably be fine, especially just removing dead wood, but are you going to starve if you don't do it?

Around Michigan, you could prune it today and come back in July to cut the entire thing down, because that's about how long it takes for oak wilt to kill it.
Click to expand...
Wow, I didn't realize that it would kill at tree that quickly. I'm glad we don't have that problem here!
 
I’m having trouble piecing together the locations of those who have trouble with oak wilt- where at? I’m seeing Michigan?

It’s not a concern in our area but we try to hold off on pruning in the warmest months just in case.

To back track a bit, you might be correct with a lightning strike wound, but doesn’t seem like a red flag. Structurally the smaller left lead looks a bit too topheavy and maybe has a not so great attachment point? Only thing that stood out to me.

Backtracking again, I’ve heard of advised to avoid pruning maples in late winter since they can lose a lot of sap- has anyone else heard that?
 
Stumpsprouts said:
I’m having trouble piecing together the locations of those who have trouble with oak wilt- where at? I’m seeing Michigan?

It’s not a concern in our area but we try to hold off on pruning in the warmest months just in case.

To back track a bit, you might be correct with a lightning strike wound, but doesn’t seem like a red flag. Structurally the smaller left lead looks a bit too topheavy and maybe has a not so great attachment point? Only thing that stood out to me.

Backtracking again, I’ve heard of advised to avoid pruning maples in late winter since they can lose a lot of sap- has anyone else heard that?
Click to expand...
There is Oak Wilt in western PA, but not this far east yet. We are expecting to start preventive treatments in the next couple years, when it’s a little closer.
 
Stumpsprouts said:
I’m having trouble piecing together the locations of those who have trouble with oak wilt- where at? I’m seeing Michigan?

It’s not a concern in our area but we try to hold off on pruning in the warmest months just in case.

To back track a bit, you might be correct with a lightning strike wound, but doesn’t seem like a red flag. Structurally the smaller left lead looks a bit too topheavy and maybe has a not so great attachment point? Only thing that stood out to me.

Backtracking again, I’ve heard of advised to avoid pruning maples in late winter since they can lose a lot of sap- has anyone else heard that?
Click to expand...
Oak Wilt seems to be eastern midwest area at the moment. We have it now in southern Minnesota and it goes down into Texas. The very east coast and west of the Iowa/Neb, Missouri/Kansas borders seem to be in the clear at the moment, with Iowa and Missouri having it, going by the current maps of Oak Wilt.
OIP.jpg
I deal with a lot of Maple in this area. I don't prune, only remove, but the pruners around here avoid late winter/early spring when the temps go below freezing at night to above freezing during the day to avoid the sap run. During those times it can flow out fifty gallons from a pruned limb. After the temps warm up to above freezing during the nights it settles down and they will prune away.
 
Shadowscape said:
Oak Wilt seems to be eastern midwest area at the moment. We have it now in southern Minnesota and it goes down into Texas. The very east coast and west of the Iowa/Neb, Missouri/Kansas borders seem to be in the clear at the moment, with Iowa and Missouri having it, going by the current maps of Oak Wilt.
View attachment 87492
I deal with a lot of Maple in this area. I don't prune, only remove, but the pruners around here avoid late winter/early spring when the temps go below freezing at night to above freezing during the day to avoid the sap run. During those times it can flow out fifty gallons from a pruned limb. After the temps warm up to above freezing during the nights it settles down and they will prune away.
Click to expand...
Thanks, this is very helpful. Looks like my zone is on the cusp.
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
Would it be the end? No. But the majority of my work is pruning (by choice) so if I don’t actually have to delay a job then why do it? I currently have two projects pending that are oak trims. This one which is just deadwood. And the other is trimming back some lower branches to create clearance near a gutter / roof line.

All very minimal trimming. I pretty much take that approach with any tree. Only take off what is absolutely necessary depending on the clients wants / what’s best for the tree.

I sent an email to that director of the DCR.

In the meantime both projects are scheduled for sometime within the next 1-3 weeks. If I hear back before then and find out it could be an issue, I’ll talk to the customers. But if I don’t, I think I need to just move forward and trust that I did my research.
Click to expand...
Do you have a state university extension office in your area? They will have the best info for residential (individual) trees and small wood lots

I would venture to guess that if you have been doing this work for more than a minute, take a “Oak man” approach ( you seem to). And you are unaware of Oak wilt in your area, then it is most liked not an issue for you

I do applaud your due diligence

Tony
 
flushcut said:
Have you sounded the trunk? It may be a removal. Inspected the root swell? But I agree with everyone else oaks are done with until colder weather sets in.
Click to expand...

Didn’t have a mallet with me when I did the estimate. Struck it with my first though, not like that’s gonna do much.

The tree isn’t near the house, I didn’t see any major dead branches or anything, and it looks pretty solid so I kind of went with that judgement.

I’m not sure I’d be keen to recommend a removal when the client says it blooms nice and full every year without seeing it for myself.

Which is why I suggested deadwood first because that’s what they wanted, and then look at it through the year. Maybe even come back out for another visit so I can see for myself.
 
flushcut said:
In fairness it may be a rotten mush bag on the inside. But out in the open with no targets enjoy it for what’s it’s worth.
Click to expand...

You're giving me anxiety, but I know you mean well and yeah I know what you mean. I personally don't "sound" every tree. I think I might've only done it once actually.

I could call the customer and tell them I want to stop by to perform a sound test, that I didn't have the tool with me when I initially looked at the job. Or I could just do the job and be done with it and not think twice about it unless I get a call back sometime down the road.

I don't want the customer to think I don't have my sh"t together either, and ask why didn't you do it when you initially came out and bid the job...
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
You're giving me anxiety, but I know you mean well and yeah I know what you mean. I personally don't "sound" every tree. I think I might've only done it once actually.

I could call the customer and tell them I want to stop by to perform a sound test, that I didn't have the tool with me when I initially looked at the job. Or I could just do the job and be done with it and not think twice about it unless I get a call back sometime down the road.

I don't want the customer to think I don't have my sh"t together either, and ask why didn't you do it when you initially came out and bid the job...
Click to expand...
Honesty is the best policy just tell them you were consulting with fellow arborists and would like to come out and do a few more observations that I didn’t do the first time that I was there.
If they are good customers they will respect your decision, honestly, and know you really care about their tree’s health and safety.
 
Last edited:
And how accurate is a sound test with a mallet anyway? Because even if a tree does have some rot / hollow on the inside, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s rotted to the point that it necessarily becomes a hazard right? Or maybe it’s solid at the base but up higher where you can’t reach from the ground during an estimate (without climbing or using a bucket) there could be a hollow. I’ve seen that before, due to critters inside the tree. So to really fully assess the tree you’d have to tap every inch of the trunk from top to bottom.

There’s machines / scanners that you can use to get a more accurate assessment from what I understand
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom