How would you climb this without ladder and spikes but only rope & climbing gears SRS method

moss said:
Get in that damn tree and climb it! Looks like a fun climb. Have you looked at Alt Lanyard technique in Jepson's tree climbing guide?

You can flip a Monkey Fist over that first solid limb to set a line and advance from there fairly easily. Try hybrid free climb/secure rope and harness technique, climb the tree arms and legs but always taking line slack out as you go. Mix it up climb rope as well. You'll be at the top pretty quick.
-AJ
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The book "Tree climbers companion " by Jeff Jepson , you mean ? I just look at it thru PDF down loadable document .
That looks tight !
I like this .
Can't believe it's came out around year 2000. It looks like it came out in 80s !
 
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Pinhead Squirrel said:
I was thinking basal anchor at the bottom run rop to the top or mid part of the trunk with false crotch with cambium saver , okay ... LoL +- 200lb plus all the harness and gears and all the bouncing movements I wrote that amount of weights just to be safe & easy calculations.

I got no ground guy so maybe Im gonna set retrieval style basal tie set up at the bottom , run the rope to the false crotch tie end at the middle , climb up to the mid anchor false crotch anchor point then retrieve the basal tie from the mid point then advance it from there. Or just go streight to the mid false crotch anchor point then advance it without basal tie.
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Tell me about this retrievable base anchor.
 
Chris Schultz said:
Tell me about this retrievable base anchor.
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ohhh !?
C'mon ... Mr.Schultz !! from The Schulz Effect !!? :LOL: (y) You do know everything already !
Actually I learned it from you how to traverse with that discontinued New tribe yella grapnel hook ! Thanks God Ive got that one in time ... but if I think of it You are not that Lawrence Shultz. LoL Sorry.
Well, I was planning to use regular adjustable friction saver as a basal anchor with butterfly tie . My rope has 200 ft so . Then retrieve it from the top like upside down like with canopy anchor with regular friction saver or make a retractable redirect all around trunk with little knot but upsidedown.
But ...

So this is what I did.

Ive ditched Basal Anchor idea . LoL
I just throw throw bag over a limb of the 2/3 of the height of that tree branch . Because higher it goes with this type of tree the branches spreads out not that much .it's gets smaller from the trunk as you go higher . So , I just manipulated throw line with my hand . Go around the trunk . So throw line is making U around the trunk . send out my rope with quick link with leather cambium saver with butterfly tie . A Regular canopy anchor with quick links basically but around the center tree trunk .

Start climbing with knee and foot ascenders on SRS. It was bit hard coz I'm so close to the trunk all the time. But manage to get there . When I get to the 2/3 from the top anchor point. I stand on skinny branch at the joint then Set the lanyard . Untie the quick link and leather cambium saver. I brought up adjustable friction saver but I didn't used it. LoL Instead , just used weight of quick link and cambium saver as a throw bag. Advanced it to the destination. Destination sounds far but only two thows and could get there where I want to be . The branch was too flexible so I just put my feet and rested my feet on a joint and brance all the time and my whole weight was on my rope all the time, basically.
Whole thing gets too very flexible at near by the top. Yes fishing pole flexible .
Just Rappel down and retrieved quickie and cambium saver from the top .
This is nothing to you all but it's it's one giant step for me.... LoL
Next time I'll go for much taller and thicker trees with tree stand so I can watch a good view from there.
 
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Pinhead Squirrel said:
The book "Tree climbers companion " by Jeff Jepson , you mean ? I just look at it thru PDF down loadable document .
That looks tight !
I like this .
Can't believe it's came out around year 2000. It looks like it came out in 80s !
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Foundational resource for rope and harness tree climbers. It’s been updated a few times, still very relevant.
-AJ
 
Looking at the tree in your photo brings some thoughts.

The crown of this conifer is very close to the ground. Normally in a forest conifer that crown is going to start at 60-90+ feet above a bare trunk with a deadwood zone just below the living crown. Line setting involves attempting to get a throwbag over some of the heavier lower crown limbs for a basal or canopy anchor. Challenging but very doable.

With the crown close to the ground like that it’s more difficult to get a throwbag through the upper part of the tree and over a good anchor limb at the union where the limb meets the spar. Too many obstructions.

That’s why I wasn’t joking when I said get a line set low on the tree and get climbing, quick, easy and safe. You’d be doing the exact same thing on a tall conifer except your initial ascent would be much further.
-AJ
 
This is my remote release basal anchor that requires zero hardware. Leaves nothing on the ground gear-wise. The tail of the rope is used to release the base anchor. Used it for many years for SRT access into big conifers when I wanted to switch to MRS to ladder climb the the upper crown limbs. Super reliable. Not using it anymore, different access and advancing techniques for conifers these days.

-AJ
 
I shot my throw bag with big shot that I've just fixed. It was over kill and throw ball went way too far out to public street where cars are passing by. I didn't hit no one thankfully but never again. LoL
I shot big shot from bit far away from tree trunk with 14oz throw bag. Hang the throw line then went to pick up the trow bag instead of pulling it. because it went way too far to the street. Just to make sure I didn't hit no one or the car.
Next time I'd go to baseball field to find out big shot's strength , distances , with angles . I can't figure out heights of where throw bag gonna go with various angles but I will find out soon or later. Ill find out it's trajectories with shooting against abundant movie theater wall or some tall building with wet throwball or chalked throw ball with golf range finder that I'm thinking . My bigshot set up is cool. Its got a 2:1 tie down to pull the bands. So I'll put some scales with sharpie on a tie down and I believe I can adjust level of strengths with it.
 
Pinhead Squirrel said:
I shot my throw bag with big shot that I've just fixed. It was over kill and throw ball went way too far out to public street where cars are passing by. I didn't hit no one thankfully but never again. LoL
I shot big shot from bit far away from tree trunk with 14oz throw bag. Hang the throw line then went to pick up the trow bag instead of pulling it. because it went way too far to the street. Just to make sure I didn't hit no one or the car.
Next time I'd go to baseball field to find out big shot's strength , distances , with angles . I can't figure out heights of where throw bag gonna go with various angles but I will find out soon or later. Ill find out it's trajectories with shooting against abundant movie theater wall or some tall building with wet throwball or chalked throw ball with golf range finder that I'm thinking . My bigshot set up is cool. Its got a 2:1 tie down to pull the bands. So I'll put some scales with sharpie on a tie down and I believe I can adjust level of strengths with it.
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Forget about calibrating throw height for your Big Shot, too many variables in how latex tubing efficiency changes in response to air temperature. You want a flat enough trajectory so you can hit your target area accurately. The more you use your slingshot the more you'll know how far to stretch the slings to get the power level you want.

For a conifer like that you want a hard shot to hopefully bust through the small branches/brush up there. Whenever you fire you're always thinking about where the bag might end up and chose your "start" position accordingly to minimize injuring anyone or damaging property. 14 oz bag is overkill and will limit the height range of your Big Shot.

My thought process around throwing is try hand throwing first, you're not likely to over throw by hand. If you know for sure you can't get your target by hand throwing you have to accept that big slingshots over throw if you want accuracy, Nothing is perfect.
-AJ
 
moss said:
Forget about calibrating throw height for your Big Shot, too many variables in how latex tubing efficiency changes in response to air temperature. You want a flat enough trajectory so you can hit your target area accurately. The more you use your slingshot the more you'll know how far to stretch the slings to get the power level you want.

For a conifer like that you want a hard shot to hopefully bust through the small branches/brush up there. Whenever you fire you're always thinking about where the bag might end up and chose your "start" position accordingly to minimize injuring anyone or damaging property. 14 oz bag is overkill and will limit the height range of your Big Shot.

My thought process around throwing is try hand throwing first, you're not likely to over throw by hand. If you know for sure you can't get your target by hand throwing you have to accept that big slingshots over throw if you want accuracy, Nothing is perfect.
-AJ
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Yes , it was. It went too far from residential area community park to public streets. LoL. I launched big shot which was far from where I took that pic. Now you know why too. LoL
 
Matias said:
Fuck man, where do I sign up?!?!
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I think he is one of only one or two in a entire country that I've heard. LoL
No that's also not true. LoL

But I think this video is pretty distorted from truth.
I dont think the guy like him makes $20,000 per climb . I think he makes around $20,000 to $30,000 a year . LoL which isn't that great.
Or is it his contract one man operation ? I doubt it tho .

pretty much same any physical jobs out there even a taxi drivers can make that much easily with out such a hard climbing.

You make much more money doing scaffolding gaffer at construction company with Unions.

Here is the link what is the requirements to be an Tower climber.


 
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On a conifer, or any tree, settle your rope tip right up snug to the trunk. Normally one would say you ain't gonna tear off the limb that way, but there was an Awakening story. So part 2 is don't isolate your tip, let there be a few more "catch" branches if your tip breaks. This plays directly into making your throw easier and you can jiggle the rope during install to get it closer to the trunk for the primary tip. Good practice to raise and lower the throw bag to drop a path close to the trunk for the redundant catch tips. Allows you to shoot the bag in going for the primary tip.

A sharpie can mark the big shot pole for "calibration" meaning you can reference shot to shot on a particular day for more or less gusto. I spaced my markings 1" and numbered them. Moss is right about poor repeatability vs temperature and aim time effects. Especially as the weather gets cold. Warm days it's all good.
 
Briefly grabbing the string just after the bag has reached the target branch, makes it stop and start to wrap around the branch, releasing the string at the right time can bring the ball back at you.

Not an SRT method, but gets you up the tree, fairly quickly, without the branch strength worries.
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