Home made friction saver

[Jman]

I have a few questions about using friction savers and how to build one that will fit my needs.

1. What material do you use for your friction saver? Rope or webbing?

2. Is your friction saver adjustable? How do you make it adjustable?

3. Are both ends rings or does one have a carabiner? What are the benifits of having a carabiner as the large end of the friction saver?

4. What size ring do you use for the small end? What size for the large end? Do you use an oval link to remove the friction saver or a knot? If a knot what type of knot?

5. Can you post a few pictures for me? and do you have any other advice that might be a hard lesson learned?

I know its alot of questions but i might as well get them asked so i can make one. I'm tired of having to fight my rope in certain trees. I would like to make one so i can build it to the size i want. Thanks a bunch.

 

[brendonv]

I just made one a couple minutes ago after reading that other thread. I had made some recently out of webbing, although I did not climb on them much, the webbing seems a bit floppy (if that makes sense). The one I just made to try is out of 1/2" tenex, if I like it, I'll get some 3/8" tenex as the 1/2" seems a tiny bit bulky. I remember reading peoples concerns about using a carabiner, because it's a little too fragile. I use 2 rings right now, although I might try a biner so I can do 2 locking brummels (I think).

Good luck,

Trial and error.

 

[spydermonkey1]

if your makeing a friction saver out of tenex you wouldnt be worried that it might pick fairly easy?

 

[PUClimber]

The one out of tenex works fine for me with two rings. That is why I covered mine with the webbing.

 

[spydermonkey1]

tubed webbing good call did'nt think of it i need a new saver so i give it a try tomarrow at work,how do you do the other side after the first ring is in?

 

[brendonv]

I used single carrier Tenex...I can't see it picking that easily.

You can only do a Locking Brummel on one side. The other side you can do a stitched Brummel. I am considering trying the biner so you can do a locking on both side.

 

[Jman]

Well, im not into splicing yet so i would end up trying off my ends for now. I'm going to get into it down the road but I'm saving money for a few things. I'm thinking of throwing a double fishermans at the end with the ring and getting another cord for the adjustable prussik and securing that on there. Do you guys use aluminum or steel?

 

[spydermonkey1]

i dont believe i've done a stiched brummel i still have a lot to learn

 

[brendonv]

After you form the eye, instead of passing the tail through the first part you "spliced" (as you would a locking B), you just use that same end of the rope you first spliced to make the second splice, then bury accordingly. Like stitching a pair of jeans.

 

[spydermonkey1]

ahh i see that does'nt seem to hard i'll give a shot it should be fun

 

[brendonv]

Hopefully Nick chimes in somewhere.

 

[PUClimber]

Ok so maybe it isn't the locked brummel I was doing. I am terrible with the names of different splices but basically you measure out your webbing and slide it on and then scrunch it down before splicing in the other ring.

 

[spydermonkey1]

nick's knowlageable taught me a hell of a lot about 24strand double braid poison ivy 11.7(thanks) witch i knew squat about.but the experience was fun and aggervating at the same time

 

[Jman]

I kind of don't want to use tenex and webbing, what kind of rope do you guys use?

 

[spydermonkey1]

good question! do you use the core if useing 1/2"16strand?

 

[Blinky]

I've got a Buck webbing FS that works well but lately I've been using an adjustable one spliced from 16 strand Hi-Vee and like it better. For pines I have an adjustable one made of 5/8" Tenex. My Buck has aluminum rings but the others have steel... I like steel better.

I have friend who just made a rope guide with 5/16" technora... it's LITTLE but super strong.

With a locked Brummel, the tail goes through the standing part, then the standing part goes through the tail. Unless you really distort the braid, you can't use locked brummels on both ends of a ring and ring friction saver because you would have to pass the already spliced ring through the splice on the other end to finish the lock... if that makes any sense.

When you pass the tail through the standing part multiple times (Is that what you mean by stitched Brendon?), it's not 'locked'. The splice is stronger but somewhat less secure, particularly under light loads. You need a pretty sharp taper to maximize the contact of the bury since that's where the splice gets it's strength... Chinese finger trap style.

 

[spydermonkey1]

how long of a piece of 16s 1/2" would i need to make a 48"fs?

 

[Norm_Hall]

[ QUOTE ]
Do you guys use aluminum or steel?

[/ QUOTE ]

I have used the aluminum since the FS 1st came out. No problems. Get the 'powder coated' rings that Buck makes. I can get them for you if interested.

 

[Norm_Hall]

[ QUOTE ]
how long of a piece of 16s 1/2" would i need to make a 48"fs?

[/ QUOTE ]

About 7 1/2 feet.

 

[Norm_Hall]

[ QUOTE ]
do you use the core if useing 1/2"16strand?

[/ QUOTE ]

No! Pull the core strands out and use the tapered end of the 16 strand as a crossover.