Hitch independent ZK-2 tether

Frank, I'll shoot you a message in a bit to get your thoughts. I'd like to use a slic pin but I don't think there'll be enough material on each side of the upper eye for me to be comfortable with. I wish they had slic pins available to the public in different lengths.

Steve if I get anything made I'll keep you in the loop!
 
I built this a while back but did a rebuild on the shrink tube since I have a better idea what I want out of it now.

This tether is independent of the hitch for easy change over from SRT to DRT and back again. Previous version the lower legs with the eyes were flexing a little too much now they have two layers of a thin shrink tube so it's all tight, no slop top to bottom.

Best thing about separating the tether from the hitch carabiner is there's comfortable room on the DMM oval for 10mm hitch cord eyes.

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More photos

-AJ
I want one. How can we make that happen?
 
Here is a new idea I am playing with. Excuse the Zip ties, the metals will be bonded together soon. The eye in the brass snap can be used to tend your system. Super easy on/off. Thoughts?

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So I went with this tether for the wrench. Ct biner welded to the tether, sandblasted, ring for tending.....simple, works great, easy on/off


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Nice work, Mike. If you move the rubber grommet onto the RW you'll probably get much better results instead of where it is now. I hope you know what I mean...with the rubber on the Wrench, it will compress into the gap between the side plates and give more flex with better spring action. It's what climbers were doing with the ZK-1 because it was too wide for any tether grommet to even touch.
 
Eric, I'm a little confused, are you talking about the rubber that is in between the side plates or below the wrench?
The band that's on the tether just below the RW pivot attachment point that initiates engagement. Just suggesting to try and take it off the tether and put it around the entire RW (around both plates), snugged back near the tether attachment point.
 
The band that's on the tether just below the RW pivot attachment point that initiates engagement. Just suggesting to try and take it off the tether and put it around the entire RW (around both plates), snugged back near the tether attachment point.
Yup already did it : ) If you slide it away from the bolt just a little bit you seem to get more action, yet still doesn't fall down too far. I believe this is what your hinting at.
 
Here's mine-I'm no machinist, but I can work a handsaw and splice.
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That's ice tail spliced (straight bury and whip stitch) to the wichard shackle, thickened with electrical trap so it fits snug inside the bamboo. Hardest part is finding the right diameter bamboo, it's light, super stiff and hopefully resilient. I think it might be awesome.
 

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