monkeylove
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Roslyn, Pa.
Solidworks....really. I use it everyday, lol. I am an engineer and toolmaker.
Frank
Frank
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I want one. How can we make that happen?I built this a while back but did a rebuild on the shrink tube since I have a better idea what I want out of it now.
This tether is independent of the hitch for easy change over from SRT to DRT and back again. Previous version the lower legs with the eyes were flexing a little too much now they have two layers of a thin shrink tube so it's all tight, no slop top to bottom.
Best thing about separating the tether from the hitch carabiner is there's comfortable room on the DMM oval for 10mm hitch cord eyes.
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More photos
-AJ
I'll build a few and make them available. I'll keep you posted on my progress.I want one. How can we make that happen?
Nice work, Mike. If you move the rubber grommet onto the RW you'll probably get much better results instead of where it is now. I hope you know what I mean...with the rubber on the Wrench, it will compress into the gap between the side plates and give more flex with better spring action. It's what climbers were doing with the ZK-1 because it was too wide for any tether grommet to even touch.So I went with this tether for the wrench. Ct biner welded to the tether, sandblasted, ring for tending.....simple, works great, easy on/off
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The band that's on the tether just below the RW pivot attachment point that initiates engagement. Just suggesting to try and take it off the tether and put it around the entire RW (around both plates), snugged back near the tether attachment point.Eric, I'm a little confused, are you talking about the rubber that is in between the side plates or below the wrench?
Yup already did it : ) If you slide it away from the bolt just a little bit you seem to get more action, yet still doesn't fall down too far. I believe this is what your hinting at.The band that's on the tether just below the RW pivot attachment point that initiates engagement. Just suggesting to try and take it off the tether and put it around the entire RW (around both plates), snugged back near the tether attachment point.
Yup yup!Yup already did it : ) If you slide it away from the bolt just a little bit you seem to get more action, yet still doesn't fall down too far. I believe this is what your hinting at.
Did this work well? Did the legs split and make the biner cross load? I like the simplicity but haven't invested in that type of tether.attachment didn't work...
Yeah it works fine and the eyes stayed put. The oceans tether is great if you have a HCP but the others will work with this pulley as well.Did this work well? Did the legs split and make the biner cross load? I like the simplicity but haven't invested in that type of tether.