Hitch hiker/2/x thread

This came to mind during the discussion with Dave, how to make the original way of tying work better. Initial testing shows it improves the ascending performance. This is a non slip version of the expandable sleeving, just one of many kinds. Simply cutting and sewing to cord might make it look better, heat causes it to expand.
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I think after further observation that my previous suggestion about stiffening up the legs doesn’t work much better. When the body of the HH is allowed to rotate, the dogbone is closer to the wraps, allowing more slack to loosen the wraps. If it just pushes straight up, there isn’t as much slack being forced into the wraps.
 
Assuming that the pictured hitch does not have your full body weight on it, it would not be satisfactory for my use. I normally tie mine way shorter, like maybe 3" shorter.
 
Right, no body weight, the theory didn’t make it that far before being rejected. The type of cord, and maybe the diameter, seems to determine how tight the hitch should be tied. Single braids, and dyneema cores cords can be looser, which allows the body to rotate easier. This is 7mm Coppa 5000 extended as far as possible and still grab reliably each time. I wouldn’t use it that way because there are no advantages for doing so, only illustrating a point.
9CC301A6-D8DF-429B-B658-6DC7699399A8.jpeg
 
Over the last couple weeks I’ve read from the beginning of this thread till the end. Tomorrow or Tuesday my HH2 and Samson Voyager rope should arrive. This will be my first time to try SRT. My experience so far has been using MRT and using a Blake’s Hitch with Arbor plex. When I’m descending, I take my time and don’t go fast. With the slow speeds I still get a bit of glazing from the friction of my Blake’s hitch. When doing long descents I’ve went to throwing my figure 8 on to save putting friction into my Blake’s hitch and shortening life of the rope. So when doing a long descent with a HH2, does the hitch hiker see majority of the heat or is it the friction hitch. I don’t recall seeing it mentioned other than somewhere someone said the HH could be a hand warmer, which pretty well answers my question.

Was also curious, the three different spots that are carrying the load the carbiner, dogbone, and friction hitch. Roughly what percent is each piece carrying?

Thanks guys. Really enjoyed this thread and it makes me feel like I’ve made a good first choice for getting Into SRT.
 
Congratulations on getting an HH2. I can't seem to remember the percentages that each of the 3 points carry but don't be too concerned about it. Things wear slow and don't heat up excessively. Take your time getting to know how it works and how to get your hitch optimized and it will become the most worry free device you will ever use. Have fun!
 
Redmech said:
Over the last couple weeks I’ve read from the beginning of this thread till the end. Tomorrow or Tuesday my HH2 and Samson Voyager rope should arrive. This will be my first time to try SRT. My experience so far has been using MRT and using a Blake’s Hitch with Arbor plex. When I’m descending, I take my time and don’t go fast. With the slow speeds I still get a bit of glazing from the friction of my Blake’s hitch. When doing long descents I’ve went to throwing my figure 8 on to save putting friction into my Blake’s hitch and shortening life of the rope. So when doing a long descent with a HH2, does the hitch hiker see majority of the heat or is it the friction hitch. I don’t recall seeing it mentioned other than somewhere someone said the HH could be a hand warmer, which pretty well answers my question.

Was also curious, the three different spots that are carrying the load the carbiner, dogbone, and friction hitch. Roughly what percent is each piece carrying?

Thanks guys. Really enjoyed this thread and it makes me feel like I’ve made a good first choice for getting Into SRT.
Click to expand...

If your hitch cord does get a little glazing, which it will, eventually especially if you leave the HH2 on the rope in between climbs (which means the same spots on the cordage are always in contact with the rope each time); then you can remove the hitch cord and roll it across the bark of a tree to give it new life and remove some of the glazing.
 
I dont think anyone has attempted to answer the friction points' percentage of load question because they are too variable. They work together in a chain to get the right kind of friction control that is not too sensitive which is how it works well in every single climbing situation/style. Single srs, doubled, 3:1 redirects and haul back set ups, and flat angle limb walks all work well on a HH because the design applies friction across a chain that ends at your fingers.
 
Last night I had my first chance to try out my HH2. Using me chest harness to tend the HH2, I can see how it could be awesome. I was also trying to make my home made knee ascender work, which after fighting it realized I need to make a bit better attempt after watching/learning of a lot better designs that exist out there.

But any way my harness I now own is a Buckingham economy line Wide-Back 2-D saddle. I can see how this saddle/harness is much better for a MRS that keeps tension on the saddle pulling up. This is the only saddle I’ve ever used, but can see how a rope bridge that weighs much less would make the setup much better. I think getting my knee ascender better but my biggest hurdle I believe is to get a better saddle/harness for SRT.
Open to suggestions!!

Thanks
Ross,
 
For guys who changeover from Srt ascent to ddrt for work what hardware do you use? I start with a canopy anchor (Alpine Butterfly / notch quickie) or a basil anchor then when I arrive up top either I untie the AB or have my ground guy untie the trunk wrap and the I'll tie a carabiner onto the end with a double fishermans. Seems cumbersome but I can't imagine blindly choking up a carabiner from the ground for my climb.

What's the best HW setup for someone who typically ground sets their initial anchor then changes over often? What's your changeover procedure?
 
Cereal_Killer said:
For guys who changeover from Srt ascent to ddrt for work what hardware do you use? I start with a canopy anchor (Alpine Butterfly / notch quickie) or a basil anchor then when I arrive up top either I untie the AB or have my ground guy untie the trunk wrap and the I'll tie a carabiner onto the end with a double fishermans. Seems cumbersome but I can't imagine blindly choking up a carabiner from the ground for my climb.

What's the best HW setup for someone who typically ground sets their initial anchor then changes over often? What's your changeover procedure?
Click to expand...

I do almost the same. Canopy anchor w/ AB and a quickie. When I get there I untie the AB and tie on an oval carabiner with an anchor bend. I set up my HH2 with a pinto pulley. The carabiner gets clipped into the rated becket of the pinto with the spine orientated into the body of the HH2 for a neat 1 carabiner termination to the bridge ring.
Picture shows a splice, but same idea.20200331_211653.jpg
 
In climbing big firs I usually set a canopy anchor, SRT up and then switch to DRT to climb the rest of the way to the top and work my way back down. I'd been using a HH2 with a pinto to change it to DRT, but honestly I ended up just switching to a ZigZag/Chicane setup. I know some people here don't like it, but I find the Chicane excellent for the ascent, and when it comes to DRT, the ZigZag is the best system I've ever used.
 
I mean, it's all personal preference like anything I suppose, but it was 100% one of those things I bought (after using a cord VT setup) where I immediately kicked myself for not buying years sooner.

I like dedicated systems, hate having to switch parts to use another setup and because of that I have 4 complete climbing systems: two SRT (200' line with my HH2 and a different 200' with a spliced end for my ZigZag/Chincane) and two DRT (lighter 200' with a spliced end and ZigZag, and a heavier 1/2" 150' with a cord prusick I use with my rope-sleeve for rougher/dirtier work).

So I've got two of them, one dedicated to DRT, and one for the SRT/DRT switch setup. I like the ZigZag enough I'm thinking of changing my dirty/oldschool setup from a cord to another ZigZag which would mean three for me...
 
Haven’t tried it yet, just scored this little lot on eBay last week, didn’t need it, but the price was killer and the stuff is all like new. I’m probably more excited about the Zillon, but looking forward to trying the Zigzag on moving rope and SRT with the Wrench.
It’s an older one, not the Plus or 2019. For some reason I had it in my head that they were bigger. It’s quite compact, and I’m pretty sure it’s gonna work fine with the shorty double legged tether and wrench.
Also came with the lanyard, a Micrograb and 5 or 6 biners.
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Hey guys.. i haven't had my hh2 that long. So still pretty new to it. Didn't like it at first having to tie my stopper knots. But just keep doing it and dont bother me anymore. Pretty much can tie it 1 shot and its dialed in. Im just wondering what other hitches can i use with it. Im using the knut right now a verison of it. Knute h. Just wondering if you guys out there experimented enough to know some diff hitches.? Thanks
 
Christrees said:
Hey guys.. i haven't had my hh2 that long. So still pretty new to it. Didn't like it at first having to tie my stopper knots. But just keep doing it and dont bother me anymore. Pretty much can tie it 1 shot and its dialed in. Im just wondering what other hitches can i use with it. Im using the knut right now a verison of it. Knute h. Just wondering if you guys out there experimented enough to know some diff hitches.? Thanks
Click to expand...
I've tried a few different hitches, but keep coming back to a distel
 
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