Handbuilt Ascender

moss said:
Not at all, but I could see all the hard work that went into your prototype, much appreciated.
-AJ
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Thanks, bud. You know I meant that in kind. In fact, it was more of a salute to you...just thinking back to the tether days, when you came out with your brilliant hitch independent model. Awesome kit that has stood the test of time!
 
ok, Eric... This is sort of what I was thinking. When I looked at your photos of the build I was able to see a better since of scale, which would make what I had in mind not possible. To put it in words I was originally thinking of taking apart a CMI micro pulley for the sheave and using a swinging side plate to capture the rope. This could be locked using a slic pin or other device. Another thought is a snatch block with a wire gate... Anyway I hope you get the gist of it.

I'd like mine made with English/Black walnut handles, to make it most very valuable. I should also draw before I drink, not the other way around. Done it again....
 

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evo said:
ok, Eric... This is sort of what I was thinking. When I looked at your photos of the build I was able to see a better since of scale, which would make what I had in mind not possible. To put it in words I was originally thinking of taking apart a CMI micro pulley for the sheave and using a swinging side plate to capture the rope. This could be locked using a slic pin or other device. Another thought is a snatch block with a wire gate... Anyway I hope you get the gist of it.

I'd like mine made with English/Black walnut handles, to make it most very valuable. I should also draw before I drink, not the other way around. Done it again....
Click to expand...
Well drawn, Evo! I do have Black Walnut at the shop...might be able to cut out a bit of the slab for you!

I really like the sheave idea, and the scissor hinge at the bottom, capturing things when the eyes align. Great stuff.

What I need for better alignment under load is to have the handle stock oriented at 90 degrees to the main body, so they would fold up along the sides, but this would allow the right hinge to be made and the handles could be shifted into the plane of the center of the rope, but without interfering with the rope path whether the handles are open or closed. Another way to help explain it...the handles would be folding up against the sides of the unit, the one on the right landing under the cam hinge pin, and the one on the left up along the left face of the ascender block (the face that the rope is pressed against by the cam).

I'll have some ciders and try to make a drawing for you.;)
 
You guys are messing with my head. I lay awake thinking through a possible design that would use only moment and friction with balanced weight. It wont work one handed. Design is simple, its:
  • two cut ally plates with slots and a guide arm
  • one fixed bolts allowing the plates to swing apart
  • two guide pins at the two
  • two handles which act as moment/lever cams - one side is permanently attached to each plate, the other side pops into the top of the cam slot on the opposite plate once the rope is in the correct path
Appologies for the quick skedio doodle, but in my head it looks a bit like:
asceder_1.png



A nice bit of hardwood for the handles, two 120x60x3mm ally plates and some M3'ish bolts and nuts is all thats required.

Opperation mode: Swing the plates apart, place around the rope so that the guide pins surround it, bring the plates together and pop the handle bolts through the slot locating holes and pull on the handles to climb.


But will it work...
 
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And the other option is:

ascender_v002_1.png


This is two L shaped plates with wooden handles pivoted on a 16-b1 or #80 with a lock plate obviously plagiourised from Gordon's BDB design. The plates fit either side of the rope and at the top have one or two pins. Pulling down on the handles will squeeze the rope between the pins. The distance from the pivot to the pins affects the moment and therefore the grip.
 
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Paul Hedderly said:
And the other option is:

ascender_v002_1.png


This is two L shaped plates with wooden handles pivoted on a 16-b1 or #80 with a lock plate obviously plagiourised from Gordon's BDB design. The plates fit either side of the rope and at the top have one or two pins. Pulling down on the handles will squeeze the rope between the pins. The distance from the pivot to the pins affects the moment and therefore the grip.
Click to expand...
Brilliant stuff, Paul. Can you envision it working for a 3:1 haulback?
 
oceans said:
Thanks, bud. You know I meant that in kind. In fact, it was more of a salute to you...just thinking back to the tether days, when you came out with your brilliant hitch independent model. Awesome kit that has stood the test of time!
Click to expand...

Haha, oh ya, forgot about that, I'm definitely not going to try to one up you on this one. There is an application for your simple non-life support cam in rec climb facilitation, more discussion needed, would be a very useful product for rec climbing instructors and facilitators. Are you going to Ian's on Friday? Plenty to talk about fer sure! -AJ
 
moss said:
Haha, oh ya, forgot about that, I'm definitely not going to try to one up you on this one. There is an application for your simple non-life support cam in rec climb facilitation, more discussion needed, would be a very useful product for rec climbing instructors and facilitators. Are you going to Ian's on Friday? Plenty to talk about fer sure! -AJ
Click to expand...
The device COULD be built by a manufacturer with life support in mind, but for my build, it's simply an aid and that's all. I haven't tested this thing to unlock its limitations, so I would not hang from it alone...or even as a 1/2 point of contact as SPRAT would say.

I'm certain aiming to be there. It's all simply hinging on getting my truck back from the garage. Hoping you're going to make it too...I've got some other fun ideas to share. Should be just warm enough for a nice climb.
 
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