Girdling roots is it worth it for this tree?

[tedantle]

Trowel and garden hose can expose the right places to cut.

It's not too late.

Here are some numbers to start. Still have yet to see the root flair.

 

[guymayor]

Ugly! Maybe try 1/3 every autumn.

 

[TimberJack]

Sawz all makes the best root pruning tool careful its so easy to get carried away.

 

[guymayor]

Good point. Getting carried away is not good; one more reason I like manual tools.

 

[tedantle]

I'm thinking I'm initially going to start at #1.

 

[Daniel]

Let's get real... there is no way to fix that tree.. reality check. By the time you take out enough roots to open that stem up, you've killed the tree... Try it and learn your lesson if you want, but let's not deceive ourselves

 

[JD3000]

I've successfully removed SGRs like that on Norway maples. Phases over years after initial pneumatic RCX

 

[Daniel]

cool... were they really that bad though and were they that compacted when you started?


I'm up for learning something new. How did you do it? details are helpful.. thanks

 

[dmonn]

I've got some minor girdling on a Norway maple. Also interested in seeing/hearing about how you've been successful.

 

[JD3000]

cool... were they really that bad though and were they that compacted when you started?


I'm up for learning something new. How did you do it? details are helpful.. thanks

Generally a reciprocating saw but always keep a cheapy silky and SHARP rounded chisels with me. Work a bit at a time every season, PGR and supplemental irrigation during dry spells seems to help.

Would like to learn/try the grafting methods that Guy brings up

 

[JD3000]

Also, not everything can be saved, some maples may be a lost cause

 

[tedantle]

Updated Photo's, Maple Tree Girdling Root1c and Maple Tree Girdling Root1d, if you look carefully in the middle show the wire basket. My guess is that this was planted to deep in the wire basket itself. I thought this would be the best place to start. I have yet to find the flare and the more material I remove, the more complicated it appears. JD3000... any thoughts? Daniel, it appears this is more information to support your conclusions.

 

[Jemco]

I can think of a few condo complexes that had shoddy landscape design contractors that planted every alder tree too deep and root bound. 10-15 years later, each and everyone of them died from slow strangulation, hundreds of them.

Most, if not all our modern arboreal headaches are manmade, unfortunately.

Great pics mate.

Jemco

 

[JD3000]

Yeah that's ugly but if interested to try to save it and dont mind the $$$ one could start the process on say 1/3 of the diameter.

Maples here have become notorious for this, reds and Norways especially

 

[tedantle]

Does this remind any one of the original Alien movie?

 

[tedantle]

Yeah that's ugly but if interested to try to save it and dont mind the $$$ one could start the process on say 1/3 of the diameter.

Maples here have become notorious for this, reds and Norways especially

I was originally going to start near #1 on the blue tape. After further examination an still no root flare, I'm back to scratching my head. Any suggestions JD3000?

 

[JD3000]

As they're removed and soil along with them, you'll either find more or the root flare

 

[JD3000]

Another thing that can be done is to partially sever a root to stunt its growth for future removal. Just make sure the cut gap is wide enough as I've seen them try to close a narrow one back up.

 

[guymayor]

Yes, do the worst 2 first.

I've seen that partial severing thing tried but have not seen any less girdling as a result. That seemed logical when I read it in the Costello book, but it was just based on theory.

 

[JD3000]

My thinking was that it might acclimate the tree to dealing with some root loss a bit more gently. Sever some completley, partially sever one or two more