Favorite rope/hitch combo with Rope Wrench?

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The fine print suggests that a static rope should always be used when using toothed ascenders, which would include a pantin I presume.
There is some risk that a fall on ascenders on non-kernmantle rope would shred the rope to failure.
I accept this risk because the hand ascender should always be under tension during ascent and it should be removed once at the work zone. It is very important not to allow slack into the system when relying on an ascender.
Working SRT on our usual assortment of modern arborist lines is just fine. You will never get rid of the bounce anyway if base tied or if you are redirecting a lot, which is the chielf advantage of working SRT.

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The bigger risk then creating slack is what you can't see at your TIP. Your right in that you can prevent slack build up at your ascender. What might be unseen is the sucker your on at your TIP that breaks and induces a 1+ ft fall. Even with out slack in your ascenders this type of fall has the ability to generate great forces. That would be my greater fear when using ascenders and why its always good to be using a rope that matches well with ascenders.

Its very rarely the seen that gets you, its often the unseen!
 
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The bigger risk then creating slack is what you can't see at your TIP. Your right in that you can prevent slack build up at your ascender. What might be unseen is the sucker your on at your TIP that breaks and induces a 1+ ft fall. Even with out slack in your ascenders this type of fall has the ability to generate great forces. That would be my greater fear when using ascenders and why its always good to be using a rope that matches well with ascenders.

Its very rarely the seen that gets you, its often the unseen!

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Thats a great point Derrick! Its a good reminder to stay alert and make sure i look for little things like that.
 
When I'm using a toothed cam ascender with the wrench on a double braid I'm not tethering to the ascender any more, no need to. Ascender is there to get a good grip on the rope and to hold a footloop, no need to attach to it. I had a "TIP rearrangement" jolt the other day ascending on the wrench and hitch, nothing major but it was enough to make me swear a little. I was standing on my Pantin when it happened, my knee bent, the hitch grabbed, end of story. So when you get a shock load the Pantin is doing nothing to the rope, your body gives until the hitch grabs. If the hitch doesn't grab you'll likely find yourself bent into a pretzl around the Pantin.
-AJ
 
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If the hitch doesn't grab you'll likely find yourself bent into a pretzl around the Pantin.
-AJ

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...got to hear that first hand in your video from the Rutland climb. "Fu@#$%er!"

Yup! After a long ascent, I take my Pantin off the line first, then take off the handled ascender from above. Getting bent up over a foot ascender would be awful, and I will not likely be flying up towards the handled ascender.
crazy.gif
 
I have tried a bunch of hitch combos..... I have tried 11mm Yale and prefer 12mm Imori. I am using 10mm Ocean Poly and the Knut/Michocan hitch on 30" i2i. I have been given advice by Oceans and found this to be my best combo so far. I should try a longer cord but keep messing up my splice and ended up with three cords at 30" or less. So far I have been limited to 4 turn Knut hitches.... (yes from best I can tell the Knut and Michocan is the same hitch)

Barry
 
Cool, BearMan. I still think that a stitched eye prusik cord will give you the best results. The throat of a hand spliced cord are stiff enough to keep the flexibility lower near the eyes, which creates a longer distance between the slack tending pulley and the bottom coil of the hitch.

I'm using a Teufelberger hitch, marked at 0.85m long. It's perfect for a 5/1 Michoacan with near zero sitback.

The Michoacan is slightly different than the Knut. The Michoacan is closest to a Blake's hitch, with the tail terminated to the same point as the eye...sort of a closed tail Blake's, if you will.

If Rich makes one for you, the measurement will be different...shorter, in fact. More like 30" or 31", since he measures the hitch length from throat to throat, rather than eye to eye.
 
Eric,

Yes I have listened very carefully to your advice. Partly because you and I are similar size in height and weight...... I am 6'2 and 190...... And have found that 12mm rope and 10mm hitches work better for me. I have worked with my splices and have gotten them to look very close to Richs size and taper...... I have yet to break test any but aggressively taper the tuck portion to keep them flexible beyond the 4" area. I am liking the DB splice because it keeps the hitch tending nicely. I also find the Michoacan 4/1 to be the best hitch for me. I need to sit down and do another longer cord.....

I have been using this as my knot reference......

http://jimknowsknots.blogspot.com/2012/01/michoacan-knot.html?m=1

http://www.sherrilltree.com/site/PKnots/Knut.html

I have tied both of these and can't find the difference....... Please let me know what I missed. Either way I have loved these hitches..... Work much better for me than a VT.....
 
Erik or moss I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but when I ascend with the 10mm op i2i 6 coil Michoacan with Imori it won’t grab when I sit back, unless I set it with my hand. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. I tried adding a seventh coil and its way too much friction for the accent. I’ve never used op does it need to break in? It seems allot stiffer than 8mm bee line. I do like the like the feeling of the 6 coil michoan while working the tree, but for the asent i'm a little nervouse it wont grab if i take a slip.

Love to here your thoughts.
 
Ian,

Is your hitch hand spliced eyes or stitched eyes?

What is the length of the hitch?

If things are wet it can make things a bit less grabby.
 
32" stitched op brand new from luke. is this the same op that you had at the clibm?

i love the feel of the imori!
 
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Erik or moss I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but when I ascend with the 10mm op i2i 6 coil Michoacan with Imori it won’t grab when I sit back, unless I set it with my hand. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. I tried adding a seventh coil and its way too much friction for the accent. I’ve never used op does it need to break in? It seems allot stiffer than 8mm bee line. I do like the like the feeling of the 6 coil michoan while working the tree, but for the asent i'm a little nervouse it wont grab if i take a slip.

Love to here your thoughts.

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I think the OP will perform better for you after a short break-in period, My sewn 10mm OP hitch cord is 30" thoat-to-throat (using the Hattier measuring method). It grabs every time on ascent with Tachyon and Imori. If anything it's a hair too tight, could use a 1/2" more length.

Break-in might do it for you. Also... is anything contacting the hitch to prevent it from grabbing (the tether maybe?), it seems to take very little side pressure to stop hitches from extending up and grabbing.
-AJ
 
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32" stitched op brand new from luke. is this the same op that you had at the clibm?

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The one I had at the climb was a Teufelberger model, and it's probably somewhere just over an inch shorter than yours. Teufelberger labeled the length at 0.85 meter, but they measure it by overall length, and Luke's will be measured from throat to throat. The overall length of Luke's is probably closer to 34". That inch can make a huge difference in the grab. I also agree with moss that some break-in time will help, too.

If you have a 32", try ordering a 31" and see if that makes a difference...I bet it will. In the meantime, maybe you have an older 8mm hitch to use? That should be real grabby on Imori.

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i love the feel of the imori!

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I'll agree with the Imori, having a real nice hand. I think larger ropes are going to make a comeback. This narrow ropes can be hard to grip for bigger (heavier) guys with bigger hands.
 
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I have been using this as my knot reference......

http://jimknowsknots.blogspot.com/2012/01/michoacan-knot.html?m=1

http://www.sherrilltree.com/site/PKnots/Knut.html

I have tied both of these and can't find the difference....... Please let me know what I missed. Either way I have loved these hitches..... Work much better for me than a VT.....

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BearMan,

on the first site, I use the knot that is second from the bottom and i call it a knut. For me, it seems to work better than a Michoacan (which is definitely similar). But I love a michoacan on my lanyard (6mm vectran on 10mm OP).

On the Sherrill site, the first two images show (what I call) a knut, but the third image is a different configuration, not the same knot as the first two. I also have never tied it in the same order as the sherrill image.

I mostly use a 28" OP 8mm ABR e2e on Tachyon. Hitch climber. It advances really well, very little sit back, compact.

I learned the knut from this excellent reference.

http://www.treebuzz.com/pdf/climbing_hitches.pdf

I think that the next article in the series has the Michoacan

http://www.treebuzz.com/pdf/Apr07-cc.pdf

pete
 
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