DRT

The Double Fisherman is surely going to set toight like a tiger. The Zeppelin Bend is still my fave for joining two lines. Putting three together creates a different situation. Let your mind be the limit. There's plenty to consider when setting up a lowerable system when adding multiple lines into a single anchor line. It possible to cancel out the lowering process. Perhaps, ideally, you really need two of everything. I think when going with two completely independant lines from ground to climber, it's still ok to anchor them on the same base anchor sling.

It's fun working in concert with a ground man that really understands what's going on. Good stuff. I love it.
Good points and I'm making too bold of statements frequently . There isn't any best for all situations so saying I've settled on anything is b.s. I do different stuff almost every time. With the site and conditions guiding my thoughts.
 

Hey Kevin, hope all's well. Question for you, I put a second bridge on my TM a few days back, and just saw the photo of your system in the blog post, I did it the same way secured with double fisherman's noose on the TM lower D's. Worked well ergonomically but I was thinking the bend radius on the lower D wasn't so great. Any thoughts? I know I have a couple small plastic thimbles around here somewhere to improve the radius, just can't find them!

25523207623_c4c61332e1.jpg

-AJ
 
Hey Kevin, hope all's well. Question for you, I put a second bridge on my TM a few days back, and just saw the photo of your system in the blog post, I did it the same way secured with double fisherman's noose on the TM lower D's. Worked well ergonomically but I was thinking the bend radius on the lower D wasn't so great. Any thoughts? I know I have a couple small plastic thimbles around here somewhere to improve the radius, just can't find them!

25523207623_c4c61332e1.jpg

-AJ
Andrew a TM finally....wow stepping up...lol.....as for the bend radius you good bro
 
In some cases, yes to the Double Sheet Bend. If I'm simply joining two eye splices (slaices even better), I'd go for a rated oval quick link.

I think you should fully research the slaice idea for SRT work. At a comp I was at last year the speed climb or footlock belay was setup with a rope with a slaice on the end. Only after the system was taken down did we realize that the slaice was only meant to be used DDRT. I am open to being wrong on this but I remember being very surprised at the time when the realization was made.

Please get someone with more knowledge on the subject than I to comment. I don't actually own anything with a slaice on it.
 
Andrew a TM finally....wow stepping up...lol.....as for the bend radius you good bro

When my truck (with all my tree gear) was stolen last year I bought a TM to replace my custom Sequoia SRT. A week after it was stolen my truck was found with all my gear (saws, ropes, etc etc) untouched. I sold some of my new gear but did not want to give up the TM. TM is now my work harness, especially like the comfortable waist belt.
-AJ
 
I think you should fully research the slaice idea for SRT work. At a comp I was at last year the speed climb or footlock belay was setup with a rope with a slaice on the end. Only after the system was taken down did we realize that the slaice was only meant to be used DDRT. I am open to being wrong on this but I remember being very surprised at the time when the realization was made.

Please get someone with more knowledge on the subject than I to comment. I don't actually own anything with a slaice on it.

Looking at the Slaice specs on the Teufelberger site, for example on Fly with a minimum breaking strength of 24kn, the Slaice on Fly has an MBS of 15kn. A well-made standard splice on Fly equals the strength of the rope, 24kn. There is no warning on the Teufelberger site about the Slaice in regard to SRT but 15kn is not 24kn ;-)
 
Looking at the Slaice specs on the Teufelberger site, for example on Fly with a minimum breaking strength of 24kn, the Slaice on Fly has an MBS of 15kn. A well-made standard splice on Fly equals the strength of the rope, 24kn. There is no warning on the Teufelberger site about the Slaice in regard to SRT but 15kn is not 24kn ;-)

Exactly what I thought and what we were so surprised by at that comp. At the time I remember thinking that this is something that needs to be published widely in our industry. I picture people base anchoring with the slaice or connecting two ropes together and thinking they are on a full strength system and that is definitely not the case.
 
I think you should fully research the slaice idea for SRT work. At a comp I was at last year the speed climb or footlock belay was setup with a rope with a slaice on the end. Only after the system was taken down did we realize that the slaice was only meant to be used DDRT. I am open to being wrong on this but I remember being very surprised at the time when the realization was made.

Please get someone with more knowledge on the subject than I to comment. I don't actually own anything with a slaice on it.

Wow, thanks for bringing this up! Thanks for trying to raise awareness of the issue! This is something the manufacturer rightly should have created big, fat notifications about, on the website and as labels on the gear itself, in my humble opinion. How bad will it look for them the first time someone takes a fall off of one of these things?

Better to lose the sales, but have all of your customers be well aware of the safe limitations of the gear. Just like the Petzl Zig-Zag, which they directly say is not endorsed for single line use. You can use it as such with some kind of friction-sharing device, like a Rope Wrench, but you do it with eyes wide open, knowingly in violation of the instructions. It is on the individual climber, then. Not to issue high-profile warnings about such a limitation seems wrong on its face.

Tim
 
That's interesting Tim, I haven't thought it all through yet. I suspect that a Teufelberger spokesperson might say something like "the specs are clear, and the various regulatory ratings are described for the Slaice". At 15kn I don't think you're going to see any failures, it's still very strong but obviously it's not what people have generally thought it was. In other discussions on this it's been pointed out that simply knotting a rope brings the strength rating down quite a bit. Tuefelberger states it in the Fly spec for example, putting a knot in Fly reduces the MBS from 24kn to 15kn.

There is definitely a slant towards trusting gear from well-known rope and gear manufacturers without reading the fine print to fully understand the limitations of any of their products. So... read read read, it's our responsibility too.

That said it would be smart and very helpful for Teufelberger to update their Slaice description and guidelines, clearly there is a communication problem if a bunch of climbers didn't know about the 15kn MBS.
-AJ
 
Now that I know I would never get one....lol

I would like to hear from Teufelberger on this for clarity as they state that the slaice still meets the EN 1891:1998 requirements for type A ropes, which by the way only require the strength of a rope at termination to be a least 15kn or 3372lbs.

" Type A rope is designed for general use by persons in rope access including all kinds of work positioning and restraint, rescue and caving. "
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom