LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Clutch is active at both speeds, right? You're just saying, not as much momentum is imparted when on 'low', correct?
Driving auger bits?
- Thread starter LordFarkwad
- Start date
Clutch is active at both speeds, right? You're just saying, not as much momentum is imparted when on 'low', correct?
cerviarborist
Very stable member
- Location
- Florida, USA
I wrote exactly what I meant. Read your manual for clarification.
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Wellllll, okay then xD
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Read the manual and I see the word 'clutch' in there exactly once (possibly twice, but I'm not able to go back through it thoroughly right now). I will assume that the rationale for higher-torque/lower-speed setting is what I noted - namely, that the speed (and by necessity, momentum) will be lower if the drill binds. Makes sense. Thanks for the heads-up.
cerviarborist
Very stable member
- Location
- Florida, USA
Before you take yourself out of the gene pool, look again. https://www.cpooutlets.com/milwauke...ll-with-quik-lok--tool-only-/miln2811-20.html
Features:
Features:
- Mechanical Clutch in Low Speed
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Cool. Not debating whether it had a clutch or not - it obviously does. I'll follow your advice to leave it in low. My manual mentions a clutch but not anything about it only being engaged in the high torque setting, just saying. I've been wrong before, so I'll skim again as opportunity permits. Thanks for the advice.
SumoClimber
New member
- Location
- Fox Cities, WI
The super Hawg mechanical clutch is only on the low speed setting. I speak from experience. 2 1/2" hole saw bound up when I left it on high and bruised my shin.
Curious as to how the SHH works with the Auger bits compared to the linesmans impact. Might have to run some comparisons in May, I'm helping install a pier and was planning on picking up the linesmans impact for drilling the pilings.
Attended a presentation from Milwaukee a few years back, I can't remember the full explanation. What I remember basically translates to the clutch is designed for hole saws because of how much more potential torque can be applied via a hole saw. Augers and regular bits power through most obstructions, esp if you get the nail biter versions.
The big hole saws have a bigger "lever" to affect the drill motor, so to speak. Think of the centerline of the drill as a winch axle and the outer edge of the drill where the winch handle would be placed. How much force would it take to keep the load from dropping with a handle a 1/4" long vs a handle that's 3" long(thinking of the 6" hole saws used for toilet waste line)
Curious as to how the SHH works with the Auger bits compared to the linesmans impact. Might have to run some comparisons in May, I'm helping install a pier and was planning on picking up the linesmans impact for drilling the pilings.
Attended a presentation from Milwaukee a few years back, I can't remember the full explanation. What I remember basically translates to the clutch is designed for hole saws because of how much more potential torque can be applied via a hole saw. Augers and regular bits power through most obstructions, esp if you get the nail biter versions.
The big hole saws have a bigger "lever" to affect the drill motor, so to speak. Think of the centerline of the drill as a winch axle and the outer edge of the drill where the winch handle would be placed. How much force would it take to keep the load from dropping with a handle a 1/4" long vs a handle that's 3" long(thinking of the 6" hole saws used for toilet waste line)
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
I'll let you know how it comes out soon - install is tomorrow morning. That lineman's impact drill looks good too - and now that I'm invested in the M18 platform.....hmm...
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
I'm sure you have the same reaction now when you think about a bound up big drill as I do when I see a bumper mount hitch ball
Hope I didn't muck up in getting the SH, as its torque numbers are way lower than that of the Lineman's Impact you mentioned both here and earlier in the thread (LI = ~700Nm vs. SH = 95Nm).
SumoClimber
New member
- Location
- Fox Cities, WI
I can't really provide concrete numbers, but there's quite the difference between sustained torque and impact torque.
Let's use my winch analogy again, adding that the axle be prevented from moving in reverse. An impact would be equivalent to tapping on the winch handle with a hammer, up to 2800 times per minute in the case of the aforementioned LI. More force imparted with each blow, but not constant. The drill would be more akin to using the winch handle, constant force and effort.
Was just on Youtube, got another comparison idea. Thanks Hydraulic Press channel, lol! Job at hand is squishing a metal sphere into a coin. Impact would be akin to flattening it out with a hammer, while the drill would be more along the lines of the press, constant application of force.
A few years back I was truly surprised while putting up my kids playset. At the time I only had a couple Ryobi cordless tools and was thoroughly unimpressed by the impact. Half a battery and a couple minutes to drive 10" timber lags. Had a pancake compressor as well, picked up a basic rattle gun(impact wrench, like the tire guys use) from harbor Fright. Worked better than the Ryobi, but I still spent more time waiting for the compressor to refill than I did putting in the lags. Decided to try the basic heavy duty corded drill I had picked up from HF in order to power the 24" long drill bit, spun those lags in so fast my buddy and I were blown away.
The above experience is part of why I was a cordless tool skeptic for a long time. I had a bit of remodeling to do and the batteries I had for the Ryobi stuff were kaput by then, so I splurged on a drill/driver set from DeWalt. Night and day difference between the Ryobi and the DeWalt. Got introduced to the Milwaukee 12v line at some point and bought into that heavily. Buddy liked the DeWalt set I'd put together in a rolling toolbox stack and offered to buy it off of me so I could fully switch over to Milwaukee.
If I get down to the shop today(yay pandemic and child care) I'll run a quick video demo with some 10" timber lags and can compare a "standard" drill vs impact. Can also toss my Surge in the mix.
PS Don't even get me started on those dang hitches!!! I've shinned the one on my SUV so many times my shin is starting to grow extra padding. It's like the last bruise solidified into callus
Let's use my winch analogy again, adding that the axle be prevented from moving in reverse. An impact would be equivalent to tapping on the winch handle with a hammer, up to 2800 times per minute in the case of the aforementioned LI. More force imparted with each blow, but not constant. The drill would be more akin to using the winch handle, constant force and effort.
Was just on Youtube, got another comparison idea. Thanks Hydraulic Press channel, lol! Job at hand is squishing a metal sphere into a coin. Impact would be akin to flattening it out with a hammer, while the drill would be more along the lines of the press, constant application of force.
A few years back I was truly surprised while putting up my kids playset. At the time I only had a couple Ryobi cordless tools and was thoroughly unimpressed by the impact. Half a battery and a couple minutes to drive 10" timber lags. Had a pancake compressor as well, picked up a basic rattle gun(impact wrench, like the tire guys use) from harbor Fright. Worked better than the Ryobi, but I still spent more time waiting for the compressor to refill than I did putting in the lags. Decided to try the basic heavy duty corded drill I had picked up from HF in order to power the 24" long drill bit, spun those lags in so fast my buddy and I were blown away.
The above experience is part of why I was a cordless tool skeptic for a long time. I had a bit of remodeling to do and the batteries I had for the Ryobi stuff were kaput by then, so I splurged on a drill/driver set from DeWalt. Night and day difference between the Ryobi and the DeWalt. Got introduced to the Milwaukee 12v line at some point and bought into that heavily. Buddy liked the DeWalt set I'd put together in a rolling toolbox stack and offered to buy it off of me so I could fully switch over to Milwaukee.
If I get down to the shop today(yay pandemic and child care) I'll run a quick video demo with some 10" timber lags and can compare a "standard" drill vs impact. Can also toss my Surge in the mix.
PS Don't even get me started on those dang hitches!!! I've shinned the one on my SUV so many times my shin is starting to grow extra padding. It's like the last bruise solidified into callus
What are the drawbacks to using impacts? Would they shear a drill bit?
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Will see about pics later, but the thing worked like a boss today. Used almost all the bit and still no issue driving it whatsoever. (9/16" through pin oak).
I just got a 3/4" bracing rod install under contract, but it's next to a power outlet, lol. Oh well... I need a 12' hasegawa ladder more than a lithium superhawg drill right now. Lady wants clearance fluff pruning on the outside underside of a back yard limited access live oak, and I don't want to rent a bucket or do pure rope access for a bracing installation at 15 feet...
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Only downside I could see is that the guy is HEAVY. But very ergonomic in the tree.
Ha! Does one still tie in when ladder pruning?? Ladders scare me, even 10' off the ground.
Depends on the diameter of the material. Ladders and 3"+ whig me out. I think ANSI a300 says above 3 feet we tie in, but I think that cannot apply to ornamental pruning... I don't know
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
It worked! Always comforting words for clients to hear
LordFarkwad
Branched out member
- Location
- Chatham Co.
Also, it is incredible how tight you can get a cable with the Maasdam! And, wedge grips (cable stops) are awesome. Mind blown.
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
Yes to both! Although I use a normal 2-ton cable come a long to tension cables, because it’s easier to get the pull I want. And I’ve never used wedge grips, I’m too cheap, but they look nice enough to use.
flushcut
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Delavan, WI
I would think yes it would shear the bit.
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
I would think so also, although I have seen a series of auger bits sold at a local tool store that is advertised as being made specifically for these impact guns, so maybe those bits hold up better.
