DMM throw hook.

I appreciate your utilizing the hook to move across to cut the ends of that limb. I find myself muscling through stuff I don't deem the hook "necessary" for because I falsely tell myself asking a ground guy to tie it on, pull it up, throw and miss several times, manage all the extra rope etc. Every single time I use it I end up saying "damn, why don't I use this more often?" because it makes even little traverses within the crown of a tree much easier. Totally worth the extra rope management, missing the shot once or twice etc.

I think I'd use the hook more if there was a some sort of XL Retractable Rope Reel, like a Sidewinder XXL that could store 40-50 feet of 10mm Sirius or other rope. I find stuffing it into a bag, or coiling it up or whatever annoying because it's delaying getting work done. Maybe I'm just impatient!

Anyway, great work homes.
 
wyatt spruck said:
I appreciate your utilizing the hook to move across to cut the ends of that limb. I find myself muscling through stuff I don't deem the hook "necessary" for because I falsely tell myself asking a ground guy to tie it on, pull it up, throw and miss several times, manage all the extra rope etc. Every single time I use it I end up saying "damn, why don't I use this more often?" because it makes even little traverses within the crown of a tree much easier. Totally worth the extra rope management, missing the shot once or twice etc.

I think I'd use the hook more if there was a some sort of XL Retractable Rope Reel, like a Sidewinder XXL that could store 40-50 feet of 10mm Sirius or other rope. I find stuffing it into a bag, or coiling it up or whatever annoying because it's delaying getting work done. Maybe I'm just impatient!

Anyway, great work homes.
Click to expand...

Nice! Yes, managing the hook line is the biggest hassle of it, retractable reel would really ace it. You're not impatient, every little thing you have to do up there that's not obviously making things happen is suspect. I'm my own boss so there's no one on the ground to yell at me hurry up. The surprising sleeper use of a hook is as an instant second SRS system. Just toss and hook and you're on a double SRS rope system with no fuss, it's less trouble than running a second rope but has all the positioning advantages. It is amazing what I can get away with for that second positioning anchor, after all the Hook isn't PPE right? I think younger climbers make up for all that with super strong bodies/agility but after a certain point if you don't have to struggle constantly to get places or hold strong position running saws your day goes better and you hurt less in the morning.
-AJ
 
Thank you for the input. You're right - I notice as I get older (I know I'm only 25, but you know what I mean) and more experienced, I've been forcing/muscling my way through certain tasks and instead trying to find a way to make things easier on my body. I always make the joke "climbing SRS has made me an incredibly lazy climber" but my efficiency has increased simultaneously. It's funny how that works haha.
 
wyatt spruck said:
Thank you for the input. You're right - I notice as I get older (I know I'm only 25, but you know what I mean) and more experienced, I've been forcing/muscling my way through certain tasks and instead trying to find a way to make things easier on my body. I always make the joke "climbing SRS has made me an incredibly lazy climber" but my efficiency has increased simultaneously. It's funny how that works haha.
Click to expand...

Yep, when you think "this is getting too easy" you're winning, pat yourself on the back ;-)
-AJ
 
John@TreeXP said:
The lower Pinto Pulley idea is great. I'd imagine that would also help the UNI, in a similar way, but do you really think the extra weight on your system is justifiable? I've added a dual hand ascender with a foot loop in place of my CT foot ascender on my right leg and my Haas on the left leg. For rec climbing only, this replaces my climbing/hiking boots with much lighter low top trail-running shoes. I've also opted against using a double rope bridge setup, in favor of an adjustable rope bridge harness using a ct-rollnlock and a large axis DMM swivel, which has room for two biners on both ends.
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by "the extra weight". Doing tree work I might have 6 steel oval screw links for speedlining, DMM Hook, a top handle saw, etc etc on my harness, it's going to be heavy but it doesn't matter if it's what I need to get it done smoothly. For rec climbing I lighten it all up, the extra bridge with a ring contributes a lot for climbing options but weight is neglible.
-AJ
 
Bob Bob said:
Another great video Moss. I appreciate the demo on the swivel, going to need to get one of the those. I found your one-man rigging set-ups to be quite fascinating, they deserve a close study.
Click to expand...

I like to document stuff that's interesting to me, if I get one or two people who also find it interesting it's well worth the trouble doing the editing. Thx Bob Bob!
-AJ
 
Found a deal on a hook. Gap Arborist has them listed on eBay. Best offer of $140 accepted. Should have went less, haha! Anyway it’s on the way!
What kind of bag are you all stuffing your hook lines into?
Is it easier to stuff into a bag or coil it and clip it onto a carry tool on back of your harness? Will play with different options, but value any input you guys may have.
 
39Buick said:
Found a deal on a hook. Gap Arborist has them listed on eBay. Best offer of $140 accepted. Should have went less, haha! Anyway it’s on the way!
What kind of bag are you all stuffing your hook lines into?
Is it easier to stuff into a bag or coil it and clip it onto a carry tool on back of your harness? Will play with different options, but value any input you guys may have.
Click to expand...

I think folks have talked about using a DMM 6 Liter gear bag.
 
TimBr said:
I think folks have talked about using a DMM 6 Liter gear bag.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tim. That bag just seems pretty overkill for the job! Just looks like a BIG bag. I figure the bag would just hold the rope and I would rack the hook. Kinda like the 4L bag size wise. I will be using 50' of PMI static 7mm with the hook to start with, coils up really nice and is rated so I'll see. Kinda like the look of this one.
www.gappower.com/DITTY-BAG-WITH-FIRST-AID-POUCH/item/08-07134?folder=1380
 
Bob Bob said:
I've been coiling my hook line which I puts me in the minority. Others have discussed the 6L DMM bag and the New Tribe Easy Rigger Saddle Bag as good storage options.
Click to expand...
Thanks @Bob Bob. I think I may have to join the Minority with you. I bought a piece of PMI cordage that is 7mm and 50' long and it coils into a nice little coil. I have watched your videos on youtube and it seems to work well. I haven't had it in a tree yet but based on what I've read and watched, one would have to pay the cordage out before you toss the hook anyway.
 
Sorry 39Buick, but only the 10mm Reep Shur can be paired with the Hook, it might even be an ANSI shall requirement. You'll have to buy a whole reel, or maybe find some shorter lengths for sale, somewhere.

Anyway, what do plan on using for a hitch cord, or rope grab on the 7mm PMI?
 
Brocky said:
Sorry 39Buick, but only the 10mm Reep Shur can be paired with the Hook, it might even be an ANSI shall requirement. You'll have to buy a whole reel, or maybe find some shorter lengths for sale, somewhere.

Anyway, what do plan on using for a hitch cord, or rope grab on the 7mm PMI?
Click to expand...
Lmao! See how that works?
If you still have some available you could save me having to figure out which hitch cord is going to work best with this 7mm.
I plan on copying a pulley/basic ascender device I saw in a video recently that looked pretty smooth. And have a micrograb I was intending on using.
Please keep in mind I’m a new climber and this hookin will be a new experience!
 
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