DMM throw hook.

I guess there is no right or wrong on a rope type for the Hook. I like a small diameter(10mm), lightweight, and flexible line. It allows me to stuff 50' of line into a small stuff sack with the least amount of effort and throw the Hook with the least amount of drag.
 
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@theatertech87; Right. It says in the ad copy that a potential purchaser would get the opportunity to order by the foot once you get into the shopping cart page, but I have not seen that pop up as an option anywhere. Which is why I've asked for assistance from @bonner1040.
 
theatertech87 said:
Looked to me like they were trying to order 100 600 foot spools
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Exactly!!

This thread has me cracking up about rope selection. Get what you want to try and see how it goes. Don't want to buy, use what you've got, see how it goes.

Nice vid posts from bob bob and moss. I have no good vid to share, though I recently used the hook a new way at ground level to position an abseil into a creek. Main climb line was base tied to my right with psp at 100'/30m.

image.webp
 
Bartlett ships pretty fast, my hook showed up Friday, and I skipped out on a couple hours of family Easter stuff to climb a bit. Review: The Captain is pretty neat, though the particular tree I was climbing was more tall than wide and there wasn't anything else nearby to try to transition to, so it didn't get tons of use. It did come in handy in once instance to pull me to the side a bit to get a better angle when throwing a line higher in the tree, and I also used it for dislodging a hung up dead branch from a distance.

In terms of rope, 1/2" 16-strand climbing line is definitely not the right rope, especially when just tied to the hook. Looking forward to getting something thinner / lighter to try with!
 
A little hooking action towards the end of this vid:

The hook saved me the trouble of jumping on a customer's roof to pull a pine limb off.

In the vid I have a Trango Cinch on the line, reality is the Adjustable BDB is the best device I've used on it. With the BDB or Runner on the hook line no need to set up a RADS when the line gets steep.
-AJ
 
Bob Bob said:
I always look forward to your videos, especially ones where your hookin'.
The rigging on this job looked extensive (800' of rope used!?), I hope you had a couple helpers. Interesting to see you pull yourself over to the other tree without needing a RADS set-up. Seeing that orange juice rope (tachyon) reminds me that I need to pull mine out of storage to put some more miles on it.
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Set up the rigging solo, had a helper for taking the tree apart and lowering it. I had a high TIP for the hook traverse so the rope angles were friendly enough to allow me to pull myself over with the Cinch. Have been doing all storm damage work since late March, the hook has been very helpful.

Here's the piece hanging on the rigging after all the brush and limbs we're removed:
39428623530_d55ec46aae_b.jpg

Thx for the comments Bob Bob
-AJ
 
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moss said:
Set up the rigging solo, had a helper for taking the tree apart and lowering it. I had a high TIP for the hook traverse so the rope angles were friendly enough to allow me to pull myself over with the Cinch. Have been doing all storm damage work since late March, the hook has been very helpful.

Here's the piece hanging on the rigging after all the brush and limbs we're removed:
39428623530_d55ec46aae_b.jpg

Thx for the comments Bob Bob
-AJ
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Almost looks like a modern art project. Very nice work.
 
Bob Bob said:
Is that a floating whale in the background of the photo or something that looks like a whale? Maybe a whale weathervane? Had to ask...

Looks like you have that limb well balanced. You're lucky to have had all the overhead rigging points for this job.
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Yes, that is a whale weather vane and no I didn't hit it ;-)

Actually there were no overhead rigging points, that's why I set two high lines to create something I could lower from.
-AJ
 
lanyards1.webp
Call it what you want. The Grigri needs to be properly oriented, depending on which side is in use, but this is the general idea for my lanyards. The 2in1 is for an SRT single connection point on the rope bridge and the lanyard on the right is for the hip rings.
 
John@TreeXP said:
View attachment 50819
Call it what you want. The Grigri needs to be properly oriented, depending on which side is in use, but this is the general idea for my lanyards. The 2in1 is for an SRT single connection point on the rope bridge and the lanyard on the right is for the hip rings.
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I saw it somewhere, but can't find it at the moment. What width is your chafe sleeve? Mine is a tighter fit, which I thought would be better. It isn't because it won't pile up enough to get out of the way when I need a short adjustment.
 
Bob Bob said:
Any suggestions or tips to avoid a hardware cluster mess would be welcome.

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I have a DMM Axis Small Swivel on one bridge and a large DMM ring on the other, gives me lots of options. With the small Axis swivel I can clip in two biners on the top blue opening, this is great for Hook traverses, I can spin under the swivel when I want to change my body orientation. I frequently clip my lanyard to the lower gray swivel opening so when I'm trying to achieve super stable positioning I can have three different attachments on the Axis at once no problem. The second bridge with a ring is more of a convenience when I'm in some awkward situation and I want an easy go-to attachment, or when I'm climbing double rope SRS and want the multicenders separated more. I frequently climb double rope SRS with both multicenders on the top of the DMM Axis as well. These small bridge swivels are expensive but a very worthy investment. Enjoying the vid, thx!
-AJ
 
Bob Bob said:
Thanks for the suggestion Moss. Do you keep the swivel on the top bridge or the bottom bridge?
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I'm on a Tree Motion so it's more like inside and outside bridge, the "inside" position is the default bridge position, that has the swivel but it could easily be the other way. For the Onyx I'd put it on the top position. If the bridges get crossed it's easy to remedy one way or the other.
-AJ
 
moss said:
I have a DMM Axis Small Swivel on one bridge and a large DMM ring on the other, gives me lots of options. With the small Axis swivel I can clip in two biners on the top blue opening, this is great for Hook traverses, I can spin under the swivel when I want to change my body orientation. I frequently clip my lanyard to the lower gray swivel opening so when I'm trying to achieve super stable positioning I can have three different attachments on the Axis at once no problem. The second bridge with a ring is more of a convenience when I'm in some awkward situation and I want an easy go-to attachment, or when I'm climbing double rope SRS and want the multicenders separated more. I frequently climb double rope SRS with both multicenders on the top of the DMM Axis as well. These small bridge swivels are expensive but a very worthy investment. Enjoying the vid, thx!
-AJ
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The lower Pinto Pulley idea is great. I'd imagine that would also help the UNI, in a similar way, but do you really think the extra weight on your system is justifiable? I've added a dual hand ascender with a foot loop in place of my CT foot ascender on my right leg and my Haas on the left leg. For rec climbing only, this replaces my climbing/hiking boots with much lighter low top trail-running shoes. I've also opted against using a double rope bridge setup, in favor of an adjustable rope bridge harness using a ct-rollnlock and a large axis DMM swivel, which has room for two biners on both ends.
 
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Some vid here, challenging hung limb removal (for me anyway), a little hooking to make my life better, also demo'd how I use my DMM Small Axis swivel. Another use for the Hook is for a quick set up to return, it's easy to just use the tail of your rope for that but convenience is nice at the right time.

-AJ
 
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