DMM throw hook.

moss said:
Trango Vergo is available from REI, direct from Trango and probably other gear retailers. There was a limited batch recall in 2017, that's been resolved. Handle problem, reminiscent of the Petzl Grigri II which also had a handle recall in the first release. I'd be interested in the Vergo except I already have a Cinch. Vergo looks better than the Cinch as far as having a more robust handle. Vergo still looks a good match for a Hook line progress capture.
-AJ
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My line is 11mm and the specs are up to 10.7 mm. Wish I got the cinch when still available. Oh well. Going to have to stick with friction hitch and hc
 
Bob Bob said:
That 11mm might still work with the Vergo. 11mm will defiantly work with the Grigri1 and Grigri2. I've tried using a friction hitch set-up (eye and eye & Pinto Pulley tied in a distel hitch or XT hitch) on the hook line several times and I always convert it back to a mechanical device. I don't like the sit back with the hitch (still there even with a compact 28' and 24" hitch cord), it feels like I'm loosing too much progress I worked to gain. I also like the ability to easily descend /return if needed. Another more expensive option is to use a ropewrench, hitchhiker, roperunner or other SRT mechanical friction device.
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Appreciate the info
 
Shouldn't be any wear as they probably only used new ropes in the store. The Cinch has a pin, or peg, that is the main wear point, it can be replaced when it does. Trango might be the only place to get them.
 
Brocky said:
Shouldn't be any wear as they probably only used new ropes in the store. The Cinch has a pin, or peg, that is the main wear point, it can be replaced when it does. Trango might be the only place to get them.
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Thanks for that bit of information, Brocky. I never looked at my Cinch closely enough to even be able to figure that stuff out. I guess I was thinking that it was all pressed together as one piece, kind of like a rivet, or a grommit. I'll need to take a closer look at it next time I pull it out of the bag. Thanks again.

Tim
 
I was wondering if anyone uses @surveyor's BOLA with their Captain Hook, so I did a search. I wasn't sure whether or not the BOLA was ok to use in an SRT fashion. So, I found a thread, and specifically this post, which addresses the issue.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/bola.33956/page-3#post-504970

(If this link only takes you to the top of the page, please scroll down to post #54 to read specifically what I had in mind.) @John_KAYS, maybe you could chime in with any further ropes you've tried to use with the BOLA that seem to work well with it, since your original posts in that thread. Thanks in advance for any comments you wish to make.

It might be nice if we could support the innovators here in our very own forum whenever possible. Gordon's device just slipped my mind in this regard until now, and Gordon is not a pushy gentleman. So I'll push for him. I bought a Hook a little while ago, but I still need to order a rope to go with it. The BOLA would be a nice addition to the setup before I use it for the 1st time. I'm a fair weather climber, for the most part, so with February just about here, it might be awhile before I get to try it out.

I was hoping @surveyor might chime in with a reminder as to what rope sizes he feels are compatible with the BOLA, and what manufacturer & model of rope he would recommend for use with his BOLA. It may have already been mentioned elsewhere, but I don't recall reading about it recently. Thank you, Gordon, in advance, for any answers you choose to provide.

Tim
 
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I would recommend the 7/16" KM III for that application.
Someone should try it with the 11.1 mm tendril and give their opinion using that rope.
It depends of course on the climbers weight, but the bone style BOLA does give a somewhat proportional grip.
On a side note, I have only 5 teardrops left in stock, but have more on order (the BOLA is hard on my teardrop stock)
of course a RE nano swivel can be installed in place of the teardrop if desired. However I rivet the teardrop in place on the BOLA
so that needs to be done at my end.
 
Bob Bob said:
...It is a very efficient way to traverse as long as the target limbs are an appropriate size for the hook opening. I actually find myself looking for smaller limbs than I normally use as a primary tie in point...
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That's a really good point, DMM had to make the Hook practical to carry and throw, the reality is the opening diameter is often a little small for limbs you might want to hook onto. Theoretically the Hook is not life support so the branch doesn't need to be? Hmm.... not really, often during a traverse weight is evenly distributed between your main tie-in and the Hook. But when you get closer to your destination the load becomes more and more on the Hook. This is the gray area or edge zone for the Hook. In your mind you're doing the constant risk assessment, "Wow, the load on the Hook is getting intense, I hope it doesn't break the limb and cause a nasty swing back!". So there we are again, the art of technical tree climbing: tree assessment, awareness of vectors and load multiplication, manufacturer's recommendations, gear rating etc. It's amazing, we are some kind of cool supercomputers figuring out all this physics, biology, intuition, on the fly.

As mentioned in the past, I'm ok with jamming my Hook on a hair too wide diameter limb. It's a strong anchor when it's stuck. that's assuming the Hook position is not too extreme so that when you get close to the destination you get some weird load angles on the Hook.
-AJ
 
Nice RADS setup on your Hook line. One way I mediate risk on a Hook traverse is lower myself against the trunk and put my lanyard on it so I have a second tie-in as I ascend on the Hook line. Mileage varies, some situations I do, others no. I'm usually throwing to a higher limb on my destination because typically I'm working so I don't lose anything if I lower over (at a certain point) and then lanyard in and go up.
-AJ
 
Burrapeg said:
You would certainly not want any pointy stubs on that tree you swung back into. That is hideous to contemplate! A good reason perhaps for a rec climber to keep a small hand saw in his bag in case some stub cleansing was needed on a particular climb.
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Yes and no. It's not the pointy stubs that will get you. Just the impact on a plain trunk from a big swing back can be like hitting the ground free fall. Just try a short swing into a trunk, surprising how much force there is.
-AJ
 
Burrapeg said:
You would certainly not want any pointy stubs on that tree you swung back into. That is hideous to contemplate! A good reason perhaps for a rec climber to keep a small hand saw in his bag in case some stub cleansing was needed on a particular climb.
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I suppose I could be seen as radical but I don't carry a hand saw rec climbing. The way I look at it, if I'm climbing in the woods, on property that I don't own, I have no right to change the trees. If there's a dead hanger I'll toss it out if it presents a danger to the climb route. Likewise super punky attached deadwood, if it's a danger to the climb route. It's following the basic woods ethics, leave no trace, or as little as possible. If I'm setting up a tree to teach or facilitate a group climb of newbies, that's a different approach. Rec climbing on my own or in a small group of experienced climbers, no saws.

Not a big righteous stance, it's just the way I relate to the woods, I'm a guest, if I can't climb a tree safely without altering it by pruning, no climb. There are always odd exceptions, I keep a hand saw in my backpack on the ground when I'm woods climbing, it can be a useful survival tool. I have a jacknife on my harness if I need to cut rope in an emergency.
-AJ
 
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