DMM throw hook.

Thats exactly what i use. Works well. Make your throw, give it enough slack to double the line in the system, tie the grapnel on midline with a good long tail, lower it further to get the grapnel to the union, wiggle the line so it hooks the line, pull it back. Easy Peesy, but it takes 3x the distance worth of throwline.

Saw it on a you tube somewhere but i don't remember where. Wish i could give the credit away, cause i never understood how to use that little guy until it was explained to me.

Perfect for pine transfers.

Any chance it was Lawrence?


Another one of my heroes.

Tim
 
When hooking between firs, which is pretty commonplace in my region, the rule of thumb is to always throw through a crotch and have the hook snag on a limb below that point. That way the angle of the hook never changes as you transfer....because the high point is only a redirect. The hook I use is weighted with good reason.....so to pierce through tight or congested whorls of branches and sill have enough weight to continue on down to a lower snag. I'd be quite confident in explaining that to a first time thrower and not worry about him getting hurt. Couldn't say the same for throwing direct to a branch and having him/her decide whether thatd be a safe transfer ir not. Not sure how a manufacturer defines that in the instructions either. Hopefully Mark, Chris or Taylor will make a video soon enough. I've posted this before, but in case you haven't seen it, use HD setting. I got this from wespur:
 
Yep, exactly the vid that I saw......now I don't use that DdRT tech he's using there, but the method of getting the line back to you is the same. Thanks for the find!

You are most welcome, JTree! Lawrence has a fairly large number of videos posted, all of them worth watching. Marking his YouTube channel as a favorite place is something I would highly recommend to all of the forum members.

Tim
 
When hooking between firs, which is pretty commonplace in my region, the rule of thumb is to always throw through a crotch and have the hook snag on a limb below that point. That way the angle of the hook never changes as you transfer....because the high point is only a redirect. The hook I use is weighted with good reason.....so to pierce through tight or congested whorls of branches and sill have enough weight to continue on down to a lower snag. I'd be quite confident in explaining that to a first time thrower and not worry about him getting hurt. Couldn't say the same for throwing direct to a branch and having him/her decide whether thatd be a safe transfer ir not. Not sure how a manufacturer defines that in the instructions either. Hopefully Mark, Chris or Taylor will make a video soon enough. I've posted this before, but in case you haven't seen it, use HD setting. I got this from wespur:

Reg, thanks for posting the comment about snagging a limb below the target crotch, and using the target crotch only as a redirect. That never would have occurred to me.

Tim

P.S. Thanks generally for all the videos you've put out there. I know you're not the kind of guy who likes to hear this stuff, but you're one of my arb heroes, too. Right up there near the top of the list. Best wishes.

Tim
 
i wonder why the DMM version did not inclued the bungee and the ball holder. Talking to fanatics of the original epple hook, that bungee is very important in keeping the hook from snagging every limb in the tree as you climb around. although the hooking danger might not be so bad if you carry it from the bottom of the J


There is a XSRE micro, micro biner attached to the "racking eye". I take this as "rack of gear" "to rack your gear".

"Racking" it by this XSRE biner would hang it like a question mark. If the open part of the hook is hung against the saddle, and the "spine" toward the outside, this seems to me to be the most streamlined, low-tangle (not no-tangle) way, from my armchair.
 
Wow, so glad I made one of these. I'm sure the production versions are great too!

Today I had 6 Norway maples on the side of an old Victorian house. Overgrown and hanging on the roof and butting into the side of the home. They just wanted, for conversation sake, around 8, 4-6 inch limbs taken off each one for clearance. I climbed the first one Srt, did my work, tossed my hook, moved my way over with a separate line, redirected my original SRT line and repeat all the way down the line. I saved so much darn time doing this.
 
Wow, so glad I made one of these. I'm sure the production versions are great too!

Today I had 6 Norway maples on the side of an old Victorian house. Overgrown and hanging on the roof and butting into the side of the home. They just wanted, for conversation sake, around 8, 4-6 inch limbs taken off each one for clearance. I climbed the first one Srt, did my work, tossed my hook, moved my way over with a separate line, redirected my original SRT line and repeat all the way down the line. I saved so much darn time doing this.

sounds like a great job for it , the hook looks really good by the way @MikePowers321 , if you add a little bit of string or bungee across the opening , it will stop it getting snagged when climbing around.

The more you use it , the more applications you find.
I admire your fabrications man, wish i could make stuff like that
 
sounds like a great job for it , the hook looks really good by the way @MikePowers321 , if you add a little bit of string or bungee across the opening , it will stop it getting snagged when climbing around.

The more you use it , the more applications you find.
I admire your fabrications man, wish i could make stuff like that
Thanks bud. That was my first real time using it, so great success : )

You know, I just tied small 4 coil prussic with some throwline at the bottom of the hook and I had no problems going through the canopy with it being upside down on my saddle.
 
Here is a simple homemade throwhook I put together. Cost about 7 bucks for steel rod, bushing, and some welding.

View attachment 32793 View attachment 32794

Shouldn't have told us how cheap it was to make - cos now I'm gonna ask if you would consider making it to order? ; )

Edit: I might just wait to see how pricey the Captain will be...
I think the Epple is way too overpriced.
 
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@Reg issue with that set up is the wt is hanging and if slack is brought into the set up the grapple can be lost and climber can fall. I prefer static load on system at all times. Just something I have experienced for you all to consider. Happy Friday (y)
 
Take a closer look at the Captain
I have 4 different styles of hooks. They all work well but at times they fail.
Captain has weighted tip to help load and project
Spine/ridge/wing for righting. I say it's best feature and looks to help rotate the hook for a more controlled rotation and grab
Flat side inside the hook to reduce psi injury to tree
Attachment. Point shackle for pivot
Round rod will work. Captain is smart and great improvement to the traditional hook.
 

Attachments

Thomas..."great improvement to the traditional hook." ????

Have you been holding out on us? I never knew about a hook or its use until just before the Captain was shown. I would have been interested in using a hook through the years. Can't wait till the Captain is available.
 
Take a closer look at the Captain
I have 4 different styles of hooks. They all work well but at times they fail.
Captain has weighted tip to help load and project
Spine/ridge/wing for righting. I say it's best feature and looks to help rotate the hook for a more controlled rotation and grab
Flat side inside the hook to reduce psi injury to tree
Attachment. Point shackle for pivot
Round rod will work. Captain is smart and great improvement to the traditional hook.

I'm not sure if you'll be able to tell us about the Captain (as it's not out yet) - but I wonder if you could give us a quick run down on the 'best of the rest'? - Or is it just home made hooks you have been using?

Thanks
 

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