Compact Bulldog Bone

surveyor · Nov 14, 2019

So I don't have a large williams biner, but I think the 1/2" hole in the spine will not be large enough for it and I think it will interfere with the dynamic of how the Bone releases anyway. However the picture above shows how to make the Bone self tending on a doubled line. The teardrop terminates on the bridge, as does the standing line on the left. It helps to have some separation at the bridge say with a rook. Then girth an accessory cord with small biner on the standing line, rather slack as shown, just so it advances the Bone upon ascent, as the working end of the line is pulled through the Bone at arms length. With an O-rig set up with the climbing line the Bone can be moved closer or further from the climber as desired. (The O-rig means the standing end of the line goes down through the ring at the bridge, and then up to terminate at the teardrop of the Bone)

Seattle High Rise · Nov 30, 2019

I’m selling 2 new BDB’S that I purchased last January. They are unused, except for one, which I did one rappel on. I actually purchased 3 all together last January. I bought one, played around with it in my yard, then bought 2 more. However, as it turns out, I was too impulsive.

I’m a high rise window cleaner. I joined this forum to buy the BDB from Gordon. Anyway, once I tried to use the BDB at work about a month later it did not perform as well while rappelling. When I initially tried the BDB it was only my body weight in a harness (around 185 lbs.) & it was great. At work, there is the additional weight of my bosun’s chair plus around 30 lbs. of water, which increases the weight to around 220 lbs. That additional weight changed the rappelling characteristics quite a bit. I only use km3 (standard) & km3 max. So, because I liked the device so much, I redesigned it a bit & made my own. It now performs flawlessly, for my needs (rappelling). I’ll attach a photo. The 2 on top are Gordon’s BDBs, that I’m selling. The one at the bottom is my design that I’ve used daily since March. I’ll sell the 2 BDBs for $200 (I’ll pay shipping, US only, & PayPal fee) each to try and get some of my money back. They’re terrific if your work load is 190lbs or less. Or perhaps different rope could change the weight limit. I’ll email you a release of liability disclaimer, for you to sign, similar to what Gordon does. Thx

Burrapeg · Dec 1, 2019

Quite a bit more leverage on the lower arm of yours! Nice job. Welcome to the forum, BTW. I am just North of you in the San Juans, on Lopez Island. If ever up this way, let me know.

Seattle High Rise · Dec 1, 2019

Thank you for the welcome. Yes more leverage top & bottom. I changed the top from 1.375 inch center hole to center hole, to 1.5625 center to center. The bottom went from 1 inch center to center, to 1.5625 center to center. I changed the bollard to 1 inch long by 11/16 wide. The spine is the same length except now a mirror image on both sides for 4 wear adjustments. My spine & bollard are stainless.The added leverage made the top bar more difficult to depress for rappel. However, I found some mylar washers for all metal to metal contacts which made everything perfect for km3.

Treetopflyer · Dec 1, 2019

100 bucks per bone is that what I'm reading....2 for 200$? These things are pricless...

Tuebor · Dec 1, 2019

Seattle High Rise said:
I’m selling 2 new BDB’S that I purchased last January.../QUOTE]
Make a separate thread in the Treebay section of the forum. Might get more notice.

Crimsonking · Dec 1, 2019

Treetopflyer said:
100 bucks per bone is that what I'm reading....2 for 200$? These things are pricless...

He slipped the word “each” in.

Treetopflyer · Dec 1, 2019

Crimsonking said:
He slipped the word “each” in.

Hahaha no buzzin without my glasses, grazing and part russian ... even 200 good deal , Dem bones are still priceless!. I've been wrenching heavy the past year, then do some dual Srt with them and I fall back in love ! Thanks crimson

Seattle High Rise · Dec 1, 2019

I’ve sold one. Yes, the remaining one is $200. Thx for the heads up on the Treebay option. I’m not knowledgeable on how the forum works.

rico · Dec 4, 2019

Treetopflyer said:
Hahaha no buzzin without my glasses, grazing and part russian ... even 200 good deal , Dem bones are still priceless!. I've been wrenching heavy the past year, then do some dual Srt with them and I fall back in love ! Thanks crimson

What? Treetop running a wrench? Do my eyes deceive me? Figure it was the Bone or death for you...
Agree, $200 for a brand new Bone is a freakin steal..

Treetopflyer · Dec 4, 2019

Only mechanical I would ever endorse personally.. I'm looking for that good ol loving feeling of the hitch too bro.. I change lines like my draws .. not fiddling with adjustments on my adjustable or different bones ( I owns 3 currently ) set up for different lines that I love to climb makes it an easy choice...That wrench shorty tether over a choacan hitch is hard to beat for the sweetness.. if I'm tip pruning and redirecting remotely or dsrt I'm bones all day.. but just whomping out a big oak in a deck like today.. gimme the wrench on some xstatic right now and I'm in heaven..

rico · Dec 5, 2019

Treetopflyer said:
That wrench shorty tether over a choacan hitch is hard to beat for the sweetness..

Word..

123Craig · May 10, 2020

Ok - this is time for a bump...

I'm about 4 years in, still on my first and only non-adjustable Compact Bulldog Bone. It simply keeps working, zero maintenance done... and because I'm only a seasonal Arborist now (and only climb for maybe a couple of days a week) - it'll probably last and last and last and last... You get the idea.

I'm biased, as this is the only mechanical I've used (though painstaking selection process beforehand) - though you simply cannot beat this product.

Despite this - I always like to hear of any ways possible to improve things (there is no such thing as perfect, only 'better').

I'm curious...

I want to hear from those who've used Bones a lot on whether they prefer Adjustable vs Non-Adjustable bollard for longevity wear?

I'd also like to know from Gordon (or anyone else?) on possible advantages and disadvantages of having the new flippable oval bollard on top, vs the adjustable and non-adjustable?

I'd like to suggest to Gordon that the new spine shape could be symmetrical (like that window cleaners mod) - therefore users could possibly gain four maximum wear points before replacing the spine?

Someone mentioned on another thread that they would like the upper arms tips to be rounded up to support the friction pin slightly more (just like the ends of the lower arms) - it's a tweak I happen to like the idea of (though would mean more machining - possibly higher cost) - and of course that would have to still integrate the rubber nubs... - Thoughts?

That's all I can think of for now.

I'm continually impressed with how Gordon keeps developing new ideas for this product, despite the fact it already simply works, and keeps working for so many of us.

surveyor · May 10, 2020

Thanks for reviving this thread, and for your assessment of the Bone. It must be time for a Samwich !

I am also curious about the adjustable vs. non-adjustable question. I think tho that if you can find a rope that works with the original non-adjustable bollards, that they will last longer no doubt because they rotate while in use. As far as the new oval bollard, I have very little feedback, because there are only a few in use, but so far that feedback is positive, and since the wear surfaces do not rotate, but are twice as long as the round surface of the adjustable bollard, I expect they will last twice as long as the adjustable bollard. Not only that but since you can manually turn them around (without tools), they might last 4 times as long.

The reason I make my symmetrical spine as I do, is that the curve on the back side allows the tending teardrop (and bottom arm) to swing down sufficiently far to allow for easy tending. Also, I am not sure I want the user to be wearing out both sides of the same end of the spine.

I may look into changing the design of the top arm, but it would definitely cost more. There is only one person (well now two) that has recommended a change in the design of the top arm, and neither have tried the latest Bone that I currently make. : ) Actually. I had thought that by now some manufacturer would have taken the Bone and produced it with their larger resources than I, but that does not seem to be going to happen. (credit to the Italian climber, whose name escapes me, who took the picture of his new Bone)

surveyor · May 16, 2020

Stubby Bone with symmetrical spine and elongated bollard

RopeShield · May 16, 2020

I would be interested in manufacturing and marketing in Canada.
Is 10 to11.5mm rope possible?

DSMc · May 16, 2020

That is a thing of beauty, Gordon.

surveyor · May 16, 2020

I have only tried it so far on my tendril 11.1mm and my cougar 11.7mm I doubt it will work on my 10mm reep shnur. It does work well on the ropes listed. It is too grippy on Vortex and very hard to manually tend on Vortex, that is to say manually tend like a hitch climber, it tends from the tending loop just fine if a bit stiff on Vortex.

Seattle High Rise · May 16, 2020

I don’t know if my feedback helps you guys, primarily because I’m not familiar with the most popular tree climbing ropes. Personally, I think Gordon’s design is the best mechanical climbing/descender out there. The design allows the most braking leverage that you can easily release. I don’t mean any disrespect to other designs out there. There are certainly other elegant designs that folks seem to really like. I modified Gordon’s design to work at specific work load with a specific rope (km3). By the way, I highly recommend standard km3 over km3 max. They perform basically the same when dry. But, km3 max is terrible when it gets wet (jerky, not smooth). However, standard km3 stays smooth in the rain (even when fully saturated with water). I’ll post some photos to try and add visuals to some of my comments. I think all of Gordon’s designs are probably great. I’ve only tried the adjustable (which is terrific up to a certain load) & my modification with the long bollard. It all depends on the work load & which rope you use. My mod climbs the same. I don’t climb very often. But occasionally I install large banners. So, I’ve climbed a few times installing banners. Having a 4 way adjustable spine hasn’t been a problem. I’m currently working on my 4th adjustment of my first spine. The only negative of my mod, that I’ve found, is the extra weight, which isn’t really that significant. I’m using a stainless spine & bollard. Also, the design I use negates the “no spring” issue. If you put it on km3, unloaded, & shake the rope, it doesn’t fall down the rope. However, with my mod, I needed mylar washers on all the metal to metal contacts to make releasing the top arm perfect. Hope this helps.