Compact Bulldog Bone

Well said Mac. I was trying to think on how to answer Davids questions. For some David not having rope on rope can be a big step to overcome in their heads. I own most of the mechanicals and they all have pluses and minuses, but the two you mentioned are in my opinion the best. If I was picking over again it would be a tough call. They are both great. As a rec guy myself I have to say just pick one or both and go for it. You will not be disappointed in either. I will say this though....if you start running a mechanical device, make sure you also carry a prussic or blakes cord with you. You never know what might happen and you can't re purpose the chucks of aluminum to get back down.
 
Tachyon, Tachyon, Tachyon....

I succumbed to the 'hype' and bought some a while back. I appear to be that odd ball that doesn't particularly care for it.

With the RR and BDB, it has more of an on/off feel when releasing to descend. It is not as easy and precise to moderate descent as my favored Yale 11.7 is. As with everything else, each of our perceptions vary.
 
Personally I don't like how the bone responds to tachyon. maybe I need to wash that rope as well.

Tachyon is a great rope but I find it far too bouncy for SRT work. Don't get me wrong it functions but after climbing on Cougar Blue it feels like bungee cord, then again most ropes feel that way in comparison to CB.
 
Ive been using Tachyon with mine and its good except for the drag I feel on ascent .After I fully weight the rope it seems to limit the bounce.
 
The only time the elongation REALLY bothers me with tachyon is when I am working near my PSP In a base anchor configuration, or I a pine where my rope is running back and forth thru a gob of pitch or something.
 
Mine looks closer to your Mike. I went to Lowes and bought a couple key rings with webbing and a biner for a couple bucks. Obviously the biner was trashed but the ring and webbing worked perfit for fitting the bone pin in the sweet spot up top.
 
Any body who hasn't given the the dyneema bungee a go for the soft link if your having tending troubles may want to consider this approach. It tends very smooth to me. Doesn't matter if I've shortened my bridge during long ascent where its just over my bellybutton or if bridge is at work position legnth ( longer) The bone just stays right at my chest near an dear to my heart ! Bless its little soul . Doesn't even need but a small monkey fist from the ground to tend beautifully and over thirty feet it sucks slack in like a hungry doggie. I climbed a mamouth white oak for fun today and the only thing I was missing was another bone ! In bigg trees Dsrt is king shit. Even going far distances if you can work a throw weight well on the tail for redirects. Wow! No more lanyarding and prussik foating around redirects, just move one line around then the next I'm gonna see once Gordon's done fine tuning this masterpiece if I can't get another.LOVE IT.
 
I meant to repost this pic from when I started tending this way the bungee does need to be a tad longer than in this pic so it doesn't fall down in between top arms , but if it accidentally makes it way down I've ran it that way purposely with my hawk eye on it and never noticed any issue or detectable foul ups.
 

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I don't necessarily think you will gain anything from the use of the bone over Rw and hitch. But because the bone is so easy on and off the rope, it can make canopy exploration easier, since you can redirect in a lot more creative ways without having to hassle without taking wrench and hitch off the rope.
That feature of the Bone's design definitely caught my attention in several of the videos. Not always, but there have been times that the spectre of dropping the slic pin of the rope wrench during a transfer, or getting the setup caught in a tight crotch has made me choose a less intriguing route
I will say this though....if you start running a mechanical device, make sure you also carry a prussic or blakes cord with you. You never know what might happen and you can't re purpose the chucks of aluminum to get back down.
Sound advice for more than with just the Dogbone.

I appreciate the encouragement. I'll keep seeking out advice and will get back to you.
 
I changed the Bollard on mine to the smallest one that came with it and also installed a tether like Oceans recommended . I played around with it in the house and felt smoother tending but still alot of drag going up the rope , i will try it next week and see how it performs
 
That feature of the Bone's design definitely caught my attention in several of the videos. Not always, but there have been times that the spectre of dropping the slic pin of the rope wrench during a transfer, or getting the setup caught in a tight crotch has made me choose a less intriguing route

You'll never drop a slicpin as it only disconnects from one place. It stays put in the other and you twist the rope out. On the RR this is prevented by having the slicpin tethered to the body with a bit of cord.
 
I changed the Bollard on mine to the smallest one that came with it and also installed a tether like Oceans recommended . I played around with it in the house and felt smoother tending but still alot of drag going up the rope ...

Something is still not right. I run mine with the medium bollard on Vortex. Using a foot and knee ascender and loosely tethered from the top arms, I can feel no discernable drag on ascent.
 
I know it was briefly mentioned but what was the final verdict on the nano swivel. I noticed in long limb walks where I don't have a very good redirect, or where I have to climb to the level of my tip on another stem the bdb orients based on how my Biner is On the bridge ring. To clarify. It has been oriented horizontal instead of vertical making the rope exit the bdb off a side arm instead of along he spine like designed. Makes it very hard to tend. Do you think a nano would help? If what I wrote doesn't make sense let me know and I'll try to explain it another way. Basically the biner from the bridge ring to the bdb trusts it sideways.
 

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