Compact Bulldog Bone

On my Yale Luna 11.7, I had to use the 3/4inch Bollard or else it creeped quite a bit one the stock 5/8". Cougar might be different though. Warthaug seems like the man to speak in reference to the Cougar climbing line. 5/8" worked great for me until I get 30 foot up and realized I needed to switch bollards.

Gordon, nice design on the new tending spot! The holes are drilled for you now Steve, so depending on your neck tether/chest harness set up, you can make any adjustments you'd like. If you look a few pages in the past, I posted one using that same spot with a bungee/ring combo which works well for a static chest harness set up. To each their own though!
 
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As far as the choice of bollard, I would say if it tends well and grips reliably without creeping with the stock installed 5/8" bollard then you are good to go.
If you need more grip then install the 3/4" bollard. If it grips fiercely, then go with the smaller 1/2" bollard or even no bollard.
 
I will be interested in which hole spacing you find to be the most useful with your Vortex. Having two will make side by side testing possible, sweet!
 
So I am assuming it is perfectly safe to drill additional holes in the top arm for the new tending point?

At the moment I am tending from the top arm with some tree motion elastic tied to each side of the top arm then a ring girth hitched to attach chest tether.

It functions but would be neater if it was drilled and then tied with a stopper not.

Thanks in advance for any replies.
 
biggun said:
So I am assuming it is perfectly safe to drill additional holes in the top arm for the new tending point?

At the moment I am tending from the top arm with some tree motion elastic tied to each side of the top arm then a ring girth hitched to attach chest tether.

It functions but would be neater if it was drilled and then tied with a stopper not.

Thanks in advance for any replies.
Click to expand...
The idea to drill and use stoppers for your bungee will work well. Think of a mini TreeMOTION bridge that comes up out of the inside of the top arms.

I want to drill two holes per side so the tether can have the stopper knots on the inside of the arms.

There's so much in this thread that ideas can get buried. I think we said this before somewhere...LOL!
 
I like the way my tether works, coming from the inside and being soft. I would think that another option for a hard link would be an omega shape. Basically a D ring with it's lower legs pointing out to allow for inside the arms mounting.
 
Help.

Clearly I'm missing something. The bone came with the big silver bollard on it. Rough decent so I installed the smaller black shiny one with the copper sleve inside it. Much better on the decent. My problem is the ascent. I have a neck bungee lanyard and there are spots where the bone just plain locks up onto the line. There are times where it tends like the zigzag, effortlessly. I tried the top point and the bottom point and seemed to have the same issues. I was only using a foot ascender and I had to sit back on the bone each time I reset my foot for another stride. It just wasn't advancing like I thought it would. I'm not really certain what I was doing wrong. the bottom seemed
 
What rope were you using Steve ?That can have something to do with it. As well as the neck bungee may be allowing some misalignments. During certain moves during ascent. A static tether may prove more suitable , if positioned correctly. More helps coming stay calm;) Wait your a fire fighter right. Thats your line
 
Steve Connally said:
Help.

Clearly I'm missing something. The bone came with the big silver bollard on it. Rough decent so I installed the smaller black shiny one with the copper sleve inside it. Much better on the decent. My problem is the ascent. I have a neck bungee lanyard and there are spots where the bone just plain locks up onto the line. There are times where it tends like the zigzag, effortlessly. I tried the top point and the bottom point and seemed to have the same issues. I was only using a foot ascender and I had to sit back on the bone each time I reset my foot for another stride. It just wasn't advancing like I thought it would. I'm not really certain what I was doing wrong. the bottom seemed
Click to expand...
The silver bollard is the 3/4". The next size down is the 5/8", and it needs to be installed with the smallest bollard inside it as a shim (which you did).
What you might be experiencing is the rope getting flattened and not conforming to fit through the top arms.
You'll also want to make sure that the lower arms aren't staying engaged when it's "locking up".
The next time you try it, take a close look at your bridge, attachment, etc, and how that translates into the lower arms. When you step up to ascend, watch the Bone and see what's happening.
You'll either see the top arms as the culprit, or the bottom.
Also, just for kicks, try a different rope and see if it makes any difference at all.
 
Using a chest harness and the tending hole on the spine and it works fine. I tried a neck tether and had the same experience as u which I think is how that new tending point on the top arm came about.
 
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