Compact Bulldog Bone

Most of our trees here are not going to be over 60'. For me the only time the bounce is a factor is on long ascent and even then the little extra energy I waste is very minimal. I used to use escalator as my ascent line when using ddrt so I know what you are saying but even then on occasion I would ascend on my tachyon line and the difference felt like a lot on the bounce test but after 15' it was negligible. If I was foot locking I would care but with good ascenders I don't find it to be an issue. I am probably more prone to what you call day to day work is why. When I get over 60' it's usually to wreck a conifer and at that point I'm using spikes for ascent anyway.
 
I can see why it would matter in your case, for me most days I have a hard time using up a whole 120' line, that includes a base tie and all the redirects. If I was climbing to 100+ feet on a daily basis I would be running something far more static. The next time I find the bounce bothers me I will remember how easy I have it compared to a lot of others lol.

If our trees were in good shape here I would have no need for srt work positioning just because they are so short a ddrt ascent is fast but with poor pruning and topping a lot of times I really need to weave the tree together to get a good tie in hence the use of srt and now DSRT/DRT for such small trees.
 
I've done a few days recently on tachyon 5/8 bollard in the bone and it is a very pleasurable experience. My now go to for bdb . I love the Yale 11.7s ,but the bulldog bone doesn't . Had to run tachyon through it to find out for myself what I was missing.
 
Worthaug said:
Where you at? One of my favorite uses for the Bone is for a single stemmed removal like a White Pine or skinny forest hardwood, it is so compact in a stem choked configuration, and this is where the Tachyon/ Bone combo excels.
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I'm in northern NY. So far it's working well for pine removals it's a lot better than a hitch as far as still being usable after several hours in the sap. I get what you are saying, I always hated how big and clunky the wrench was choking the stem on spar work I usually had to take it off. After learning about how to use my chainsaw to keep my line tight and just spiking up with no lanyard things got a lot faster on those pines where I had to go up and down a lot. I still spike up and cut as I go for the ones with no rigging and use ddrt to progress since it's a lot faster. Once I get to the top I tie in with the bone and drop the top and start chunking.
 
I'm still liking the 3/4" bollard with Yale 11.7 better than the 5/8" bollard and Tachyon. It provides smoother control for me. The Tachyon is more on/off and harder to regulate. I must be the odd man out on this one.
 
2014-12-25 08.36.38_resized.webp 2014-12-25 08.35.29_resized.webp An update on my altered for fat rope, BDB. I did have to move the tending strap to the top link position to get satisfactory, smooth tending. I did test it and it grabs reliably, even with some force being applied. I tried to get a picture of how straight the rope path is now. As you can see the top link sits very close to the spine when in the tending position. This means that the rope passes through the links while they are at their widest. So far I am very happy with how this is working on Vortex.
 
Treetopflyer said:
I've done a few days recently on tachyon 5/8 bollard in the bone and it is a very pleasurable experience. My now go to for bdb . I love the Yale 11.7s ,but the bulldog bone doesn't . Had to run tachyon through it to find out for myself what I was missing.
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Hmmmm...that sounds familiar to me for some reason. Oh yeah, I said that way back in the beginning of this thread. :) I tease.
Cougar on 3/4 is nice too.
Merry Christmas!
 
DSMc said:
View attachment 29270 View attachment 29271 An update on my altered for fat rope, BDB. I did have to move the tending strap to the top link position to get satisfactory, smooth tending. I did test it and it grabs reliably, even with some force being applied. I tried to get a picture of how straight the rope path is now. As you can see the top link sits very close to the spine when in the tending position. This means that the rope passes through the links while they are at their widest. So far I am very happy with how this is working on Vortex.
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Looks very polished inside. Any tips on putting a fine polish on this thing? I'm considering having mine anodized.
 
My BDB has all new aluminum parts except for the teardrop and chain links but the original parts can be made to shine like mirrors with just a little time on a 10" buffing wheel. For best results you will need to take it all apart and hit each piece individually.
 
gmcttr said:
I'm still liking the 3/4" bollard with Yale 11.7 better than the 5/8" bollard and Tachyon. It provides smoother control for me. The Tachyon is more on/off and harder to regulate. I must be the odd man out on this one.
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I'm going to 3/4" bollards on both of my Bones. It works well with everything I use (haven't tried Vortex). This way I can run them on every rope I have without any changing around.
 
gmcttr said:
I'm still liking the 3/4" bollard with Yale 11.7 better than the 5/8" bollard and Tachyon. It provides smoother control for me. The Tachyon is more on/off and harder to regulate. I must be the odd man out on this one.
Click to expand...
I agree with the smoother control on 11.7s. I was just starting to get some creeping during intolerable positions , that I felt were close to jeopardizing my safety as I was handling chainsaw.
 
DSMc said:
View attachment 29270 View attachment 29271 An update on my altered for fat rope, BDB. I did have to move the tending strap to the top link position to get satisfactory, smooth tending. I did test it and it grabs reliably, even with some force being applied. I tried to get a picture of how straight the rope path is now. As you can see the top link sits very close to the spine when in the tending position. This means that the rope passes through the links while they are at their widest. So far I am very happy with how this is working on Vortex.
Click to expand...
David, can you post the all the mods in your most recent update? Mostly, it seems you've shortened the uppers, but is that the hinge point length?
 
I would not recommend that Tyler, if those are snagged and pulled out the wheels would come off and the Bone would fail. It is not that hard to change the much more secure cotters, which can be purchased at most any hardware (Southern States has 3/32 SS cotters and Brass cotters) The hardware cotters are actually a bit thicker than the Tsubaki cotters.
 
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