Compact Bulldog Bone

Honestly I think the learning curve is pretty forgiving with the bone. Getting your chest harness/neck tether/whatever dialed in will be an important part. Finding out which option works best.

Also which rope you use with it, and which bollard. That won't be too difficult. There is a lot of gab in this thread about climber size, and rope diameter, and bollard size, and how they interact.

You'll just be in love, and leave all your hitch cord broken hearted, crying in its beer. That's the most difficult part
 
Gordon - if I replace the lower arms with steel of the same dimensions but the longer A... you'd be happier with that?

Also if I'm to replce the lower arms with ally - but wider to allow for the extra moment - what type of ally stock should I be looking for? I'm not a metalurgist!

The arms are 20x5mm currently with 8mm holes. The weakest points are at the pivot holes where there is 12mm of aly. If I use 30x5mm - that would give 22mm at those points and I can slim it down on the top for the rope entry and link strike points. Thats still nearly double the aly at the critical points.
 
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Paul, Steel would be stronger of course, stainless $ would be nice, however the aluminum with no half moon notch on the anchor side would be my suggestion, because of the weight. (all the Bones have 6061-T6 alloy)
Another possibility may be to use a small DMM spacer for the small pinto pulley as the upper Bollard.

Ben, I agree with Mac. The Bone is very intuitive and just needs to be dialed in with the proper bollard to work well. Your Bone is coming with the 5/8" bollard installed, but you may find that it works better with your rope with the 3/4" bollard enclosed. There is also a brief instruction sheet enclosed.
 
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Instructions!!! These newcomers are getting cosseted!
I bet it goes something like:

1) attach device to you harness
2) smile
3) slide the rope into the links and close the lock plates,
4) chuckle because that was insanely quick and easy
5) climb with a huge smug grin on your face
6) go loopy on the forums because you found something cooler than sliced bread
7) become obsessed with trying to understand how so few parts work so well

PS I've been meaning to get a spacer for my pinto - that was just the excuse I needed :)
PPS Did anyone try an ART lockjack swivel into the hitch point yet? one of these: /http://www.gustharts.com/ca-lkal-w-art-lockjack-sport-swivel/

PPPS Gordon - you could offer a double teardrop hitch point for clipping in DdRT or DSRT line when using a microswivel. Kind of like a micropaw.
 
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:)
I know of one OAR user (in the UK) who added that swivel to his.
I am not familiar with the micropaw, could you post a picture?
 
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bwktreeserv said:
Hey guys! Ive been following this thread for a while trying to learn all I can. Now that I have a BDB coming from Gordon i'm trying to sort through what I really need to change up or incorporate in the set up for it to function the best. Oceans, Tyler, Mac, Gordon, give me your quick 2 cents on what to do and not do from the get go. I will be using this by itself sometimes and in DRT with the wrench on the other rope others. I think I got all the info I need already but thought id throw it out there. Thanks in advance guys! -BEN
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Ben, You shouldn't have ANY problem with taking the Bone out of the box and putting on an 11.5mm to 11.7mm climbing line and running in SRT with the 5/8" bollard. DdRT actually makes it more complicated, but not much. I see you're saying DRT with the Wrench, so I'm thinking you mean TWO SRT systems. That will be great.

I recommend that you:

~ Try a swivel on your bridge and connect to that. This will facilitate operation and tail fairlead.
~ I strongly encourage a "soft link" between your chest tender and the Bone.
~ Work on loading the Bone with it facing left and right. It opens on the right, but sometimes the tail will be coming from the left when you redirect, so just get used to it. It's not difficult, only different-cult at first.
~ Work on holding slack when you connect/disconnect the Bone at height. I sometimes gently hold my tail in a union with my foot, or tie in a quick Alpine Butterfly and hang it on my saddle. The time to do that will be erased when you see how much quicker you can put the Bone on/off the line.
~ Play around with the different means of control...thumb on the Upper Arms, palm on the Upper Arms, hand around the line above the Upper Arms, palm on the Lower Arms, etc...
~ Most importantly, prepare for you or someone else to massage your face muscles before and after the climb because you will be smiling until it hurts. :bailando:
 
I have to agree with Oceans, the Bone is awesome in its stock form. I don't see any need to modify it other than adding a link for tending. It's kind of like going out to eat and taking the chef's suggestions without any changes. Much respect to Gordon, he did a ton of r & r before releasing his amazing creation to us guinea pigs. Enjoy!
 
surveyor said:
:)
I know of one OAR user (in the UK) who added that swivel to his.
I am not familiar with the micropaw, could you post a picture?
Click to expand...

micropaw is just a nickname for what I was suggesting. Think of a tiny 3 hole petzl paw with two crab holes and an 8mm CBD hole - Sorry for messing with someone elses pic:

CBD-micropaw.png
 
I have made a similar connect with two attach points there. I wanted to see if it would work DdRT or even tend the bone on ascent, but it did neither.
I could make a micropaw but would have to special order.
 
bwktreeserv said:
Hey guys! Ive been following this thread for a while trying to learn all I can. Now that I have a BDB coming from Gordon i'm trying to sort through what I really need to change up or incorporate in the set up for it to function the best. Oceans, Tyler, Mac, Gordon, give me your quick 2 cents on what to do and not do from the get go. I will be using this by itself sometimes and in DRT with the wrench on the other rope others. I think I got all the info I need already but thought id throw it out there. Thanks in advance guys! -BEN
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Oceans nailed it.
 
The small DMM spacer is the perfect width and about 1" in outside dia. (about 7/8") on the face. The inside dia.is 14mm which is a bit too small to fit over the 5/8" stock bollard, however you can run it over the 1/2" bollard, it will have a bit of slop but it will still grip and release on the rope. You can drill out the inside dia. to 5/8" and slip it over the stock bollard, but then it only allows a 10mm (3/8") rope to run through.

I don't know about the swivel, but you can dry the bone in the oven.
 
I do not know if it will grip an 10mm rope that way, as I have no rope that size to test with.
 
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