Compact Bulldog Bone

You'll like it with the wrench. I use 9mm, 28" ArbPro sewn E2E and a distel, but it seems to me I also had the 9mm EpiCord also working good on it. I don't remember what @Worthaug uses for a hitch cord. It's a slick rope, so I didn't have much luck with 10mm cords, at my weight.
 
JeffGu said:
You'll like it with the wrench. I use 9mm, 28" ArbPro sewn E2E and a distel, but it seems to me I also had the 9mm EpiCord also working good on it. I don't remember what @Worthaug uses for a hitch cord. It's a slick rope, so I didn't have much luck with 10mm cords, at my weight.
Click to expand...

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This is the cats ass @JeffGu and @Wyatt



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I got some crazy ideas the past few days, trying to figure out that this whole rope slippage/performance issue, and I'd like to share them now.

First idea I got: Has anyone thought about somehow integrating a rope wrench into the device? I thought about a few possible scenarios (didn't actually tinker, however, so I do not know about actual hardware compatibility and such): Replacing the top arm completely with the wrench. Like a frankenstein CBDB. I don't know how well this would work, considering the top arm is component the user depresses in order to descend on the device. Second possible idea: Add the rope wrench ABOVE the top arm, connecting it via some kind of small, stiff teather to the spot where the black spacer is, the spot just before the bollard, and after the top attachment point of the spine. In addition, in this configuration, I think the bollard would have to be either swapped to the smallest size OR removed completely. Three points of contact/friction. Basically makes the BDB into a metal friction hitch in a Wrench system. Just a thought. Not sure how practical this is: Would most likely make the device another 2-4" longer, which is not so "compact".

Second idea: Integrating a friction hitch into the device, a la Chris Coates's experimentation with the Rope Runner ("Hitch Runner"), where the bird is replaced with a short e2e. Maybe the eyes of the hitch cord could be installed on the same spot I suggested before with the Wrench tether - the black spacer just before the bollard.

I realize all of this might be a sin against humanity, messing around with a perfectly designed device with superior performance like the BDB. Maybe I should just keep my grubby little hands and stupid ideas off Gordon's work of art, before I destroy something beautiful! These seem like pipe dreams now that I write them all down, but I felt the impulse to share, just because.

Get back to me on whatcha think!
 
wyatt spruck said:
I got some crazy ideas the past few days, trying to figure out that this whole rope slippage/performance issue, and I'd like to share them now.

First idea I got: Has anyone thought about somehow integrating a rope wrench into the device? I thought about a few possible scenarios (didn't actually tinker, however, so I do not know about actual hardware compatibility and such): Replacing the top arm completely with the wrench. Like a frankenstein CBDB. I don't know how well this would work, considering the top arm is component the user depresses in order to descend on the device. Second possible idea: Add the rope wrench ABOVE the top arm, connecting it via some kind of small, stiff teather to the spot where the black spacer is, the spot just before the bollard, and after the top attachment point of the spine. In addition, in this configuration, I think the bollard would have to be either swapped to the smallest size OR removed completely. Three points of contact/friction. Basically makes the BDB into a metal friction hitch in a Wrench system. Just a thought. Not sure how practical this is: Would most likely make the device another 2-4" longer, which is not so "compact".

Second idea: Integrating a friction hitch into the device, a la Chris Coates's experimentation with the Rope Runner ("Hitch Runner"), where the bird is replaced with a short e2e. Maybe the eyes of the hitch cord could be installed on the same spot I suggested before with the Wrench tether - the black spacer just before the bollard.

I realize all of this might be a sin against humanity, messing around with a perfectly designed device with superior performance like the BDB. Maybe I should just keep my grubby little hands and stupid ideas off Gordon's work of art, before I destroy something beautiful! These seem like pipe dreams now that I write them all down, but I felt the impulse to share, just because.

Get back to me on whatcha think!
Click to expand...

I suggested adding the Wrench a few comments back.


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The only way to know is to try it and see. If you tether the top of the Bone to a wrench you will likely find that it affects the release of the Bone dynamic, and perhaps more objectionable, it is no longer compact and as easy to take off and on line. I have tried the standard Bone with a short 8mm hitch in between the arms fastened at the hole in the spine with some limited success, the top arm then releases the hitch as you pull down on the top release arm, but it is too much fussiness with getting the hitch just right. I believe you will find the adjustable top arm to be the best solution to dialing in the grip you want. This can be done while the rope is installed in the Bone with very fine adjustments possible with the 10-32 adjustment screw, which functions as a sort of fine worm drive, holding the bollard right where you dial it.
 
surveyor said:
The only way to know is to try it and see. If you tether the top of the Bone to a wrench you will likely find that it affects the release of the Bone dynamic, and perhaps more objectionable, it is no longer compact and as easy to take off and on line. I have tried the standard Bone with a short 8mm hitch in between the arms fastened at the hole in the spine with some limited success, the top arm then releases the hitch as you pull down on the top release arm, but it is too much fussiness with getting the hitch just right. I believe you will find the adjustable top arm to be the best solution to dialing in the grip you want. This can be done while the rope is installed in the Bone with very fine adjustments possible with the 10-32 adjustment screw, which functions as a sort of fine worm drive, holding the bollard right where you dial it.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Super excited about the top arm upgrade. Keep the innovations coming Gordon! You're killin it!

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wyatt spruck said:
I got some crazy ideas the past few days, trying to figure out that this whole rope slippage/performance issue, and I'd like to share them now.

First idea I got: Has anyone thought about somehow integrating a rope wrench into the device? I thought about a few possible scenarios (didn't actually tinker, however, so I do not know about actual hardware compatibility and such): Replacing the top arm completely with the wrench. Like a frankenstein CBDB. I don't know how well this would work, considering the top arm is component the user depresses in order to descend on the device. Second possible idea: Add the rope wrench ABOVE the top arm, connecting it via some kind of small, stiff teather to the spot where the black spacer is, the spot just before the bollard, and after the top attachment point of the spine. In addition, in this configuration, I think the bollard would have to be either swapped to the smallest size OR removed completely. Three points of contact/friction. Basically makes the BDB into a metal friction hitch in a Wrench system. Just a thought. Not sure how practical this is: Would most likely make the device another 2-4" longer, which is not so "compact".

Second idea: Integrating a friction hitch into the device, a la Chris Coates's experimentation with the Rope Runner ("Hitch Runner"), where the bird is replaced with a short e2e. Maybe the eyes of the hitch cord could be installed on the same spot I suggested before with the Wrench tether - the black spacer just before the bollard.

I realize all of this might be a sin against humanity, messing around with a perfectly designed device with superior performance like the BDB. Maybe I should just keep my grubby little hands and stupid ideas off Gordon's work of art, before I destroy something beautiful! These seem like pipe dreams now that I write them all down, but I felt the impulse to share, just because.

Get back to me on whatcha think!
Click to expand...
I also agree that trying to add a RW would be like "throwing a wrench in it"...as in, you would end up making things worse..... even if it made it better for that one particular rope. The RW isn't designed for life support, so you would have to figure that in too. I don't have an adjustable top arm (next on my list), but I would think that would be the best solution you are going to get. I still have an older version of the Bone and I work with ropes that work for me and my weight and haven't ever changed anything on my bone. I haven't taken one cotter pin out, never switched a bollard. It has just been perfect since day one. I may be just lucky that everything works so well for me, but the bone is magnifico if you find the right pair...but the adjustable version will make that very easy.
 
It is alive!

The Adjustable Top Arm Assembly is a success. It works great. The KM3 max is running great, almost better than the kernmaster when it was new. I had to really cinch the bollard tight because the KM3 flattens quite a bit and I suppose that was the major cause of the slippage, along with the slick/waxy cover.

I will say, I'm going to miss the tending D ring from the original top arm. But id take the adjustable bollard over the tending ring any day!

Thank you Gordon! Excellent work.
72a0968f1793aebb70b980324d810537.jpg
865493fa8c3e313982a1cfd436405576.jpg


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Wyatt, I am glad to hear that it works for you on the KM3 max. I am surprised to see how much you needed to narrow the gap with the bollard, as my regular KM III (7/16) is quite hard and dense. I was showing a friend how to use the Bone on some eldrid 11.1mm yesterday, and it was working sweetly with the bollard wide open and tends slack so nicely. It may make a difference if you washed your rope to remove the waxiness. Your picture shows well the way the adjustable bollard not only narrows the gap at the friction pin, but also increases the pivot length of the upper arm at the same time. I like your tending loop. If you wanted to move it towards the bollard, I think there is room to do so around the arms, either side of the bollard adjustment screw.

I think an adjustable BOLA is possible, but it would take a design change ($$$$). I guess a gear manufacturer needs to contact me.
 
wyatt spruck said:
It is alive!

The Adjustable Top Arm Assembly is a success. It works great. The KM3 max is running great, almost better than the kernmaster when it was new. I had to really cinch the bollard tight because the KM3 flattens quite a bit and I suppose that was the major cause of the slippage, along with the slick/waxy cover.

I will say, I'm going to miss the tending D ring from the original top arm. But id take the adjustable bollard over the tending ring any day!

Thank you Gordon! Excellent work.
72a0968f1793aebb70b980324d810537.jpg
865493fa8c3e313982a1cfd436405576.jpg


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Click to expand...

Wyatt, thanks for posting the great photos of the Compact Bulldog Bone with adjustable top arm. Is your device nearly new? What steps do you take to keep it looking so good? Thanks in advance. Tim
 
Last edited:
TimBr said:
Wyatt, thanks for posting the great photos of the Compact Bulldog Bone with adjustable top arm. Is your device nearly new? What steps do you take to keep it looking so good? Thanks in advance. Tim
Click to expand...
@Timbr the device is about 1.5 years old, it's used frequently (70-80% of the trees I climb)

I've recently disassembled and cleaned the entire device - I used this cleaner called Brasso which is a copper aluminum steel etc cleaner polish. Took all the dark corrosive gunk right off. Applied with medium/ coarse steel wool followed by fine steel wool.

Before and after pics of swivel snap arms.
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All the joint links are stainless steel. The friction links are high carbon steel, but with a special corrosion resistant coating called "Neptune" from the manufacturer, Tsubaki. All links are coated at the contact with the aluminum parts with a product called "Lanocote".
 
surveyor said:
All the joint links are stainless steel. The friction links are high carbon steel, but with a special corrosion resistant coating called "Neptune" from the manufacturer, Tsubaki. All links are coated at the contact with the aluminum parts with a product called "Lanocote".
Click to expand...
Neptune.
That's badass.

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