Compact Bulldog Bone

MikePowers321 · Mar 31, 2016

I agree, John. Gordon has been quite helpful to me as well :guitarra:

BDB and Bola are in charge

wyatt spruck · Apr 1, 2016

She's a beaut, that's for sure.
Incredibly impressed. By the device and the exceptional customer service.
Thank you @surveyor
Keep up the good work!

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surveyor · Apr 1, 2016

Thanks guys, I appreciate your input and suggestions.

Just be sure the rope loop on the tending point does not snag on the lower arm, and impede the upward swing of the top arm.

Huskyman · Apr 1, 2016

I added a small swivel on the tending point. Works really nice.

CutHighnLetFly · Apr 1, 2016

wyatt spruck said:
2) I'm not getting the right amount of "smoothness" I was expecting when I put the BDB on my 12mm Imori. I believe the BDB came with the middle size bollard already installed. I want to try switching up bollards and rope combinations to see if that changes the amount of "bite" the BDB has. However, I'm not 100% sure how to properly uninstall and install those cotter pins. I don't want to start screwing around with important safety features (like the cotter pins that hold the links/arms together) without any knowledge. Any tips on how to best install/uninstall the pins (specifically on the swivel snaps on the top arm where the bollard is)?

3) I'm getting the impression that this device works better on static, less stretchy rope. It certainly ran better on my HTP, minus the creeping/slipping.
What are considered more "BDB friendly" ropes? I see a lot of dudes rocking Safari and Kernmaster. Should I bother running the BDB on my imori? So far it hasn't been very smooth on imori.

I ditched the cotter pin and put a keychain ring in its place. Easy on and off in seconds. If you are to go this route, make sure it cannot get hooked on anything on either the upper or lower bars as this can keep it from engaging.

I wasn't a fan of imori thru the bone. As far as double braid lines, I'm all about the Yale poison ivy/ 11.7mm series, and I know others love the daunaghy cougar lines.

macswan · Apr 2, 2016

John_KAYS said:
Another exceptional customer service award goes to surveyor!!! I was just thanking Treestuff for going above and beyond the call of duty. And now that I am thinking about it...I have to say Gordon is outstanding! With all of his devices he has been extremely attentive to, well...everything. It is incredibly cool to have someone with his finger on the pulse ready to help when ever there is need. Thanks Gordon for a job well done. I am sure we ALL appreciate it. I love the BDB and BOLA so much.

I second that. He is a very generous man. With a truly outstanding product

macswan · Apr 2, 2016

wyatt spruck said:
She's a beaut, that's for sure.
Incredibly impressed. By the device and the exceptional customer service.
Thank you @surveyor
Keep up the good work!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a similar bit of cordage for tending, but it runs thru the carabiner hole in the spine. With one knot on either side of the spine.

wyatt spruck · Apr 2, 2016

monkeylove said:
I would actually try the bigger one on both ropes but that is exactly why you want to play around.

@monkeylove you were right about the large bollard. Even though it is counter intuitive, it kind of stops the top arm from biting as much, and the device releases smoother because of it. Tending isn't as fantastic but it's not that much harder to tend. Thank you for the input. Glad I tried the larger bollard.

monkeylove · Apr 2, 2016

Not a problem Wyatt, that's why we're all here.

123Craig · Apr 3, 2016

More Bone Minutia;

Just testing (will never use for real)... How wrong is it to use the Bone in Speedline (ends up being sort of a slackline)? - It works, though I understand it would put a lot of pressure on both anchor points of the line. I also think it puts a lot of pressure (more than is safe, imo) on the chain link pins against the rope (particularly the lower one - as it takes most of the bend radius of the rope). Thoughts?

Thanks for the Taper + Cotter Pins Gordon! - I couldn't get the first one (upper) to go through as much (it sticks up a millimetre) as the second (lower). I hit them in as much as I dared (I didn't want to risk damaging the chain link pin if I could help it). I'm pretty confident that the pins will not loosen. In testing - it already made the Bone feel more sturdy (in a good way!).

On a separate note: I unbent (90 degrees) a used cotter pin 6 times (and bent it 5 times) before it broke (I was just curious). I, like everyone else will not use a used cotter pin (at the cost - why should I?) - and I also realise that any slight pressure the cotter may see would be more likely to come from the side. I'm not concerned about it - was just giving the info I found.

Made this quick hand tending loop. I've already figured that even if the tail goes against the rope in the device - it does not stop it from functioning normally (I may shorten the tail later). I also don't think it can catch (to keep the upper arm from engaging) - though will monitor it.

monkeylove · Apr 3, 2016

Craig, what's up with the tapered pins on the operable links? Did I miss a safety update by Gordon?

surveyor · Apr 3, 2016

I do notice when installing the taper pins, that often the pin will engage deeper in one hole than the other on the same chainlink. I am usually able to tap the pins in flush with the inner side of the friction pin but not always. I have never had one refuse to go at least flush with the snap swivel link, but I always support the inner side of the friction pin when tapping the taper pin in. You might want to consider filing your top taper pin down a bit.
The handhold around your thumb looks like it might damage your thumb joint. If you tend there, just be aware that if you bear too much downward weight there, it will cause the Bone to release.

Huskyman · Apr 3, 2016

monkeylove said:
Craig, what's up with the tapered pins on the operable links? Did I miss a safety update by Gordon?

Some info here:
Compact Bulldog Bone

Huskyman · Apr 3, 2016

surveyor said:
I do notice when installing the taper pins, that often the pin will engage deeper in one hole than the other on the same chainlink. I am usually able to tap the pins in flush with the inner side of the friction pin but not always. I have never had one refuse to go at least flush with the snap swivel link, but I always support the inner side of the friction pin when tapping the taper pin in. You might want to consider filing your top taper pin down a bit.

Yes, I noticed that one of the pins wouldn't go in deep enough. Would you recommend to file the pin down Gordon? I mean, could it be a safety or practical issue? I haven't encountered any problems yet though.

Dave Rohach · Apr 4, 2016

My Goodness, the BDB seems more robust than the ones from a year ago! I see the extra cotter pins are in play now, but the whole unit looks quite a bit heftier! I'm just going to have to breakdown and purchase #2. Craig or Gordon, what's the price of the latest version of the BDB? BTW, I'm just fixated on the BOLA, Frank. Thanks again, it's changed the lanyard to a whole new level.

surveyor · Apr 4, 2016

If the taper pin sticks up proud of the snap swivel link it would bug me, and I think I would grind it down and round it over, but don't see it as a safety issue.

Dave Rohach · Apr 4, 2016

Nothing to get caught up on! Completely agree!

surveyor · Apr 4, 2016

The Bone uses the same materials (I now add the taper pins on each), and is the same price. The rubber nubs were suggested by Mike Powers, and when Craig123 was putting a key ring through the outer pin hole I eventually found that a taper pin would work there.