Compact Bulldog Bone

Good Call Drew! The BDB, is virtually priceless, not to say that the RR isn't, but I will bet you will wanna use the BDB almost every time you use a single rope ascent, the Bone is my primary and my RR's are my 2nd & 3rd lines for moving through the forest for pruning. You'll be very happy with both devices. Also, Congrats! Welcome to the Buzz!
 
Couldn't wait until the morning so went out in the fading light to take a quick climb with the bdb. That thing is awesome. I always disliked descents with the rope runner as I didn't like where you had to hold for it to release. The two rubber bumpers on the bdb are great. Can't wait to fly some more this weekend.
 
Thanks for t.he feedback CutHighnLetFly. I'm 185 without gear so it sounds like it will work fine. I just ordered one and am excited to get on it!
 
Mr. Treegongfu

Did you make this modification yourself? (The slack tending roller, that is?)

Or is this something you custom ordered from Mr. Gordon @surveyor

I'm starting to see this device is modular, and able to be tweaked according to the users preferences and quirks.

Are all y'all machinists that can just *poof* create a precision metal add on part for a device like this, or is there something I missed when I ordered mine?

Moral of the story:
I like that roller idea and I'm peanut butter and jealous.


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wyatt spruck said:
I'm starting to see this device is modular, and able to be tweaked according to the users preferences and quirks.
Click to expand...

Whenever i start tweaking it my appreciation for the brilliance of Gordon's design is renewed.

(How to say this?) Within, the confines of the basic leverage forces, dimensions and requirements (frictionless tending and near effortless descent), Gordon found a very narrow and exacting point. So changing it to improve any of these paremeters usually has a negative effect on one of the other aspects.

It is cerainly possible to change it but becareful it easily becomes a compulsion you may wake from in six months time destitute and alone with one more tweak needed to stop. it slipping.
 
I've had my BDB for nearly a year as whilst I loved it from day one for its slack tending ease, I wasn't happy with descending. Found it jerky.
After a while though and after a few long fast descents the device appears to have bedded into the rope. Now it's smooth and predictable, flawless.


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BDB arrived today in the mail - perfect timing for a rainy, work-is-cancelled-what-the-hell-am-I-supposed-to-do-with-myself day. Here are my initial thoughts (along with some questions for the more experience BDB users):

First thing I noticed: It looks badass. If an alien ninja warrior wanted to climb on a multiscender, that alien ninja would most definitely choose the BDB. It's got a certain edge to it's profile that says "I'm made of military grade airplane metal, now go make me a sandwich while I sword fight with the sun."

It was incredibly easy to install/uninstall on my climbing line (Even on Imori, which is a beefier 12mm rope that was sometimes difficult to roll past the slic pin on the ZK-2).
The device feels solid - just by it's weight and construction it has a very robust, well-built character that was the result of great attention to detail and hard work. Brush ya shoulders off, @surveyor

The BDB is very compact (obviously) in comparison to my previous SRT/SRWP system. The device doesn't feel clunky, awkward, and even after being weighted it tends slack better than the most dialed in friction hitch I've ever climbed on. It seemed much smoother on sterling 11mm HTP, however I noticed some creep when I bounced in my saddle (2-3ft off the ground).

I appreciate the tending options in the BDB's design. I find that attaching to the brass D ring on the rear of the top arm has a smoother tending action, however attaching to the hole on the spine is definitely more compatible with the level at which it connects to the Weaver SRT chest box. After a few trial runs with different tending devices (webbing loop, lanyard over shoulder, Weaver Box, and using my hand), I found LOTS (attached to the brass D ring) worked best.

Upon descent, the top arm "breaking" action took some getting used to. A level of finesse is needed to initiate a descent that is not too sudden and jerky.

Bombing out is now my favorite hobby; I probably ascended 5-6 extra times just so I could hard press the top arm all the way and dive bomb back down (weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!). I noticed the device started was pretty warm after long, fast descent.

So far the BDB is truly an impressive piece of industrial art and I look forward to incorporating it into my work positioning palette.

Questions for experienced BDB homies:

1) Tending with the brass D ring is great. However, connecting an accessory carabiner directly to the BDB caused me some headache when it came time to unclip after ascent. Any suggestions for a connection to the top arm tending point that is more compatible?

2) I'm not getting the right amount of "smoothness" I was expecting when I put the BDB on my 12mm Imori. I believe the BDB came with the middle size bollard already installed. I want to try switching up bollards and rope combinations to see if that changes the amount of "bite" the BDB has. However, I'm not 100% sure how to properly uninstall and install those cotter pins. I don't want to start screwing around with important safety features (like the cotter pins that hold the links/arms together) without any knowledge. Any tips on how to best install/uninstall the pins (specifically on the swivel snaps on the top arm where the bollard is)?

3) I'm getting the impression that this device works better on static, less stretchy rope. It certainly ran better on my HTP, minus the creeping/slipping.
What are considered more "BDB friendly" ropes? I see a lot of dudes rocking Safari and Kernmaster. Should I bother running the BDB on my imori? So far it hasn't been very smooth on imori.

That's all. Sorry for the novel.
 
You definitely want to try the bigger bollard, I run mine on both 11.7 yale and Samson Vortex 13 off the big bollard. It will make tending slightly tighter but nothing really. While it seems backwards I found the bigger bollard does not allow the top to roll up as far making the release smoother to control. It is completely backwards from my Runner which I run with the bollard wide open to create the same desired bird positioning. The SS cotter pins will break if unbent and rebent to many times so my suggestion if you want to play around some is to get some standard cotter pins and after you like what you have swap them out for the real ones (I am guessing Gordon still includes a couple extras). I tended with a few things and they can all work but the secret is to untether before you sit back, especially if your tether is static. The Dog like every other mechanical likes to be worn in some before it really starts to shine. To help the release try moving your hand position around and think of it like a prussik hitch, just made of metal. Have fun.
 
monkeylove said:
You definitely want to try the bigger bollard, I run mine on both 11.7 yale and Samson Vortex 13 off the big bollard. It will make tending slightly tighter but nothing really. While it seems backwards I found the bigger bollard does not allow the top to roll up as far making the release smoother to control. It is completely backwards from my Runner which I run with the bollard wide open to create the same desired bird positioning. The SS cotter pins will break if unbent and rebent to many times so my suggestion if you want to play around some is to get some standard cotter pins and after you like what you have swap them out for the real ones (I am guessing Gordon still includes a couple extras). I tended with a few things and they can all work but the secret is to untether before you sit back, especially if your tether is static. The Dog like every other mechanical likes to be worn in some before it really starts to shine. To help the release try moving your hand position around and think of it like a prussik hitch, just made of metal. Have fun.
Click to expand...

Thanks @monkeylove
Yes got the extra cotter pins with the BDB in the mail.
I'll try upping to the large bollard when working on the HTP. I suppose the small bollard will make working on imori better. So I guess I have to decide which rope I want to work on more....cuz I can't just switch bollards whenever I'm in the field....
I'll give the tending tip and top arm grip technique a try. I appreciate it !
 
monkeylove said:
You definitely want to try the bigger bollard, I run mine on both 11.7 yale and Samson Vortex 13 off the big bollard. It will make tending slightly tighter but nothing really. While it seems backwards I found the bigger bollard does not allow the top to roll up as far making the release smoother to control. It is completely backwards from my Runner which I run with the bollard wide open to create the same desired bird positioning. The SS cotter pins will break if unbent and rebent to many times so my suggestion if you want to play around some is to get some standard cotter pins and after you like what you have swap them out for the real ones (I am guessing Gordon still includes a couple extras). I tended with a few things and they can all work but the secret is to untether before you sit back, especially if your tether is static. The Dog like every other mechanical likes to be worn in some before it really starts to shine. To help the release try moving your hand position around and think of it like a prussik hitch, just made of metal. Have fun.
Click to expand...

@wyatt spruck , woops! This was meant for you, not monkeylove. Sorry Frank, you're probably thinking "I knew all that!"o_O

Good to hear you're diggin the Bone! I think all things will smooth out for you by just using it more and more and your body will learn what to expect. Meanwhile, the device will break in a bit and smooth out as well.

Imori was designed for extra grip with that random weave. It's awesome for DdRT with a hitch or SRWP with the Wrench, but that grip translates differently with mechanicals. A more normal weave pattern would make a big difference. Ropes like Tachyon, Cougar, and Blue Moon are are pretty solid performers in the Bone. I would reach for Tachyon first since it stays round more so than the others, and all that really translates to is more consistent performance throughout the year. Others feel Tachyon has too much elongation for SRWP and would likely go for one of the other two.

One thing I did find is that certain devices don't behave well with ropes that store energy (elongation). What will happen is the energy "jumps" out when you initiate descent. I've found it on the HH 1 and the RR with all the ropes listed above when there's significant length of line above me (say 60' or more). This can make any rope seem like garbage, but it's really just the nature of the beast in that particular scenario.

As far as your tending connection to the Bone, I'd try a soft connection such as a Throwline loop girthed onto the Bone and connecting the biner to that. It has the flexibility to re-orient, making connect and disconnect more fluid in some cases.

Best of luck with it, Bomber!
 
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wyatt spruck said:
Thanks @monkeylove
Yes got the extra cotter pins with the BDB in the mail.
I'll try upping to the large bollard when working on the HTP. I suppose the small bollard will make working on imori better. So I guess I have to decide which rope I want to work on more....cuz I can't just switch bollards whenever I'm in the field....
I'll give the tending tip and top arm grip technique a try. I appreciate it !
Click to expand...
Well, thank god Eric posted all that, cuz I was not looking forward to the long write. I just wanted to add that I tried very hard to use imori with the bone, and the runner, but it just didn't work. It will not interface well with mechanicals for me. That's why I have a nearly new length of it that's about two years old. Good to have a back up though I guess.
 
I have been including 7 SS cotters with each Bone. When changing bollards you should straighten the bent legs (I use a pair of dykes) and remove and discard the used cotter, then after the new bollard is installed, and the snap swivel link is in place, insert a new SS cotter with the legs perpendicular to the friction pin and bend them around the friction pin and flat against the swivel link with a pair of pliers. I then use a file to smooth the tip of the longer leg of the cotter.
 
Another exceptional customer service award goes to surveyor!!! I was just thanking Treestuff for going above and beyond the call of duty. And now that I am thinking about it...I have to say Gordon is outstanding! With all of his devices he has been extremely attentive to, well...everything. It is incredibly cool to have someone with his finger on the pulse ready to help when ever there is need. Thanks Gordon for a job well done. I am sure we ALL appreciate it. I love the BDB and BOLA so much.
 
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