Climb It?

Mangoes, tie into the large ash near the tree to be felled, swing over and blow the top out. If you can't safely tie into another tree think of your wife and kids, smile and walk away. However, these are only my two cents and am not there in person to assess the situation. Let us know how it went.
 
Mangoes, some questions, suggestions, tips, pointers, what have you.

One, glens be danged, post bigger pics.
Two, how far is the healthy ash away? It looks close, and should make the job a breeze. Just climb it as murse said, and rig the dead tree off it.

How far is the house from the tree?

Is the tree currently hinged to fall just to the side of the house? And is it back guyed to the tractor/

So, is there not room to drive a crane or smaller boom truck past where the tractor sits? A 17 ton boom could easily handle the job if it oculd get close...and they are quite maneuverable?

TreeDr...That is a big NEGATORY!! Hope you were joking...25-30 yrs ago, some local tree guy decided to take a risk and climb a conifer that someone had cut a 60-75% wedge in.. When he let the top fly, the rebound caused the butt to fail....result, one dead climber.....
 
One thing to think about is that:if you can get 3 or more strong guylines on it more or less equidistant around the circumference and anchored on the tree above the center of gravity IT CANNOT FALL. As Roger pointed out-with a tall tree close by you can be secured no matter what the tree does.
 
Mangoes,

I wouldn't climb it from the pics. Pics are sometimes misleading, but still. Why do you need to risk yourself (beyond the normal risks) to clean up someone elses mistakes? I say let them decide how much they want to spend. Give them 3 safe choices with $$. For example, fell it and see what happens, rent the crane, or rent a manlift. They can always finish it by themselves.

Oh, and don't worry about your avatar. Doc's got no room to talk. Remember his "nutty" friend? /forum/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Mangoes, is there bucket truck access? If not, like Tophopper said, tie into another tree and set 2 guy lines (V rig) going against the lean into the native area trees. Assuming there is something significant enough to anchor to.
Before blowing out the top, tie another "V rig" with the lean leaving enough room for the top to drop between them. Also assuming there is something significant to anchor to. This will help with the "moment arm" forces created.
From the looks of your stump pic, there is a flat spot on the back side. Possibly no supporting roots.
Perform a "low impact" topping job; no lowering, no shock loading the trunk.
 
Might be kinda fancy and time consuming to set up, but are there trees you could set up a traverse line on and work off of it and not be tied into the removal tree?
 
Why do you have to blow a big top out of it? Why not take a bunch of small pieces all the way down so as not to leverage too much at the notch. It makes for a long day considering, but surely your price will more than compensate.

It's a damn shame he notched it cause it would've been a great little td otherwise.
 
F.W.I.W. Mangoes, I would laugh in their faces first. Then ask them to name YOUR price. Tell them you don't have a deathwish.

Trees don't flop over at the first storm. There is a massive overkill in strength.
In Germany is living a man, lets for the story's sake call him Claus :-). This mas is, well lets call him a VTA specialist.
He mentioned to us that a tree, cut to the half of the diameter has still not lost enough "meat" to show any loss of strengh.

This means that a normal standing tree has no higher risk of failure at that moment.

Would I climb it Mangoes, I think I have to see it before I can believe it. I think I start out with mentioning the "take it or leave it price", than rig the trunk, putting on my dark brown sawpants :-) (so the colour would stay the same during the job) and than get up there to flop it off without rigging and stash the two grand into my pocket to have a party that night with my mates.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Mangoes, some questions, suggestions, tips, pointers, what have you.

One, glens be danged, post bigger pics.

[/ QUOTE ]
That's a helluva way to be! What can't you see that you feel you need to see in those pics, Roger?
 
From the pics of the notch it looks like the tree is leaning towards the notch, not away from it. But you said the tree had a fairly heavy lean away from the tractor. Since I assume that the tractor is in the direction that the tree is intended to fall is the lean in the notch pics just an illusion?

Why does the owner want the top blown out before dropping the tree? Is he worried about the weight of the top pulling the tree in the wrong direction, or the damage that the top might do when the tree falls? I can't see any of the cables that the owner set but I am guessing that they are at the top of the ladder. If the owner is worried about the weight of the top can you set a line (or two or three) higher in the tree using a throwline? If he is (now) worried about the damage that the top might do, he'll just have to see what happens.

Height and depth perception can be skewed in photos, but some of the other posts had good suggestions. Tie-in to another tree, use a highline, cut little pieces (not half the tree nor even a big top), or rent a crane and use a man basket. We want to see you at many more TCC's, alive and in one piece. /forum/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Had a look at it with an outside perspective,from a friend that works for another company. He didn't have a quote on it and therefore wouldn't have anything personal involved. We think it could be climbed with a lot of effort in securing the tree. $800 simple removal becomes $1500 very tricky, complicated removal.
 

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mangoes
name your price,in this situation only a few companies will actually bid on it.. allow a full day and 25% more for the danger involved..if you dont get it too bad ..a day home with the wife and kids not making money, is better than a day that costs your next six months due to an injury.....

you are in the fabulous position to tell the client what a cheap bastard they are and ask what kind of fool would do something so dumb.....

i would tie in high in another tree, swing over set a line mid way up it....come down and set a block elsewhere and pull the tree over in its entirety.. the line and block will pull the tree where desired. screw his yard..if it costs him some shrubbery or small trees...oh well your safety FIRST...dead trees are not fun(i speak from experience) and they are dangerous i try to fall them before climb them and i charge twice my normal rates for dangerous jobs.
 
Stupid question.....can you get a bucket truck to it?

If it were up here I would put a rope in it and pull it into the bush lot. Clear cut a drop zone first and tell the buddy if he doesn't like it then tell him the cost of the crane.
 
OOPS

had a tree like that this week, i got it down without damage. I would not hesitate to climb such trees, it needs to be done and i (think/presume) i'm qualified/capable to do the job. How and with what gear is to decise at the spot.

O yeah, that darn tree i had is a story for awakenings or cranejobs ;)
 
With all those other trees around, surely you could rig an overhead tight line to work off, even lower off, or at least set lifelines in two trees, as well as rig it off other trees, and guy it off others as well.

I still think climbing that tree with no safety lines is risking potential catastrophe.
 
one positive thing here is the lead that has already been removed. it appears to have been at least a third of the tree's total weight. as roger says it shouldn't be too difficult to set up a lifeline from one or two trees near it. it may even be safe enough to climb as it is given the reduced weight. or set a pull line with a throwline and pull it over from about 60 degrees from the direction of fall. although that is a crummy notch...
 

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