chris_girard
Branched out member
- Location
- Gilmanton, N.H.
Thanks again Norm.
choking carabiner
- Thread starter treebing
- Start date
jmcscrap
Participating member
- Location
- Woodbury, MN
Thanks for another trick to put in my bag Norm!
- Location
- Lexington, KY- USA
Should you girth hitch the loop to the carabiner?
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
[ QUOTE ]
Should you girth hitch the loop to the carabiner?
[/ QUOTE ]
Absolutely. Thank you.
Should you girth hitch the loop to the carabiner?
[/ QUOTE ]
Absolutely. Thank you.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
[ QUOTE ]
If your tossin the rope up over a suitable crotch, why not just clip the biner to your bridge slap on a cinch or other belay device to the other leg to take the slack out, and work your way up Ddrt up to the next point?
[/ QUOTE ]
Wears through bark/ cambium.
Wasted energy to friction.
I used a ropewalker type set-up yesterday on SRT. Ridiculously easy. More gear intensive. I used two handles ascenders, lower ascender with 4' sling for foot loop, Pantin, and VT. Hardest part is getting enough weight for Pantin to start to feed on own, without groundie holding end at the beginning.
If your tossin the rope up over a suitable crotch, why not just clip the biner to your bridge slap on a cinch or other belay device to the other leg to take the slack out, and work your way up Ddrt up to the next point?
[/ QUOTE ]
Wears through bark/ cambium.
Wasted energy to friction.
I used a ropewalker type set-up yesterday on SRT. Ridiculously easy. More gear intensive. I used two handles ascenders, lower ascender with 4' sling for foot loop, Pantin, and VT. Hardest part is getting enough weight for Pantin to start to feed on own, without groundie holding end at the beginning.
Sorry I climb on a dynamic system but just wondering is that biner your final TIP or just used for the initial accent? Looks like a slick system though.
Also does the retrieval throwline get in the way much I can see groundies cursing you and it on a limby tree?
Also does the retrieval throwline get in the way much I can see groundies cursing you and it on a limby tree?
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Used your technique, Norm for knotless rigging with a tip tie.
Groundie just threaded spliced eye through a loop, threw spliced end over the tip of the branch, clipped to the loop, pulled for a tip-tie.
Groundie just threaded spliced eye through a loop, threw spliced end over the tip of the branch, clipped to the loop, pulled for a tip-tie.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
SST,
Here are a couple of easy ways to add weight below your foot ascender.
Make a coil of rope like you're going to tie a monkey fist. Tuck the last coil through the end 'eye' and leave it loose.
A better way is to take some shoelace or small cord and tie it to the eye of a throwbag. Then girth hitch the cord loop below your foot ascender. When you get into the tree yard up the rope and hang the throwbag on your harness.
I've used the throwbag in the tree to advance my rope to a higher TIP or to add weight to my lanyard snap to advance it or whip it around a large trunk.
Here are a couple of easy ways to add weight below your foot ascender.
Make a coil of rope like you're going to tie a monkey fist. Tuck the last coil through the end 'eye' and leave it loose.
A better way is to take some shoelace or small cord and tie it to the eye of a throwbag. Then girth hitch the cord loop below your foot ascender. When you get into the tree yard up the rope and hang the throwbag on your harness.
I've used the throwbag in the tree to advance my rope to a higher TIP or to add weight to my lanyard snap to advance it or whip it around a large trunk.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Thanks, Tom.
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
[ QUOTE ]
1. Sorry I climb on a dynamic system but just wondering is that biner your final TIP or just used for the initial accent? Looks like a slick system though.
2. Also does the retrieval throwline get in the way much I can see groundies cursing you and it on a limby tree?
[/ QUOTE ]
1. It's for advancing in a tree. With a retrieval line on it, you could use it for a final tie in. Throwline string would not be my choice for a retrieval line. Something in the 1/4" diameter range would be easier to pull.
2. Like I said in my post, the string was there to pull the system out so I wouldn't have to climb it. Throwline string would not be my choice as a retrieval line. It's to hard to grab due to it's 2.2mm diameter.
1. Sorry I climb on a dynamic system but just wondering is that biner your final TIP or just used for the initial accent? Looks like a slick system though.
2. Also does the retrieval throwline get in the way much I can see groundies cursing you and it on a limby tree?
[/ QUOTE ]
1. It's for advancing in a tree. With a retrieval line on it, you could use it for a final tie in. Throwline string would not be my choice for a retrieval line. Something in the 1/4" diameter range would be easier to pull.
2. Like I said in my post, the string was there to pull the system out so I wouldn't have to climb it. Throwline string would not be my choice as a retrieval line. It's to hard to grab due to it's 2.2mm diameter.
- Location
- White Rock, BC
what about using a locking clevis and carting a small wrench on your belt to click it locked, thats strong, orientation wouldn't matter that much, it would take a bit of time to secure but not much longer then 1 minute, hook it up with the threaded rod in your splice and the fixed part of the clevis on the moving end of your climb line.
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
[ QUOTE ]
what about using a locking clevis and carting a small wrench on your belt to click it locked, thats strong, orientation wouldn't matter that much, it would take a bit of time to secure but not much longer then 1 minute, hook it up with the threaded rod in your splice and the fixed part of the clevis on the moving end of your climb line.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't understand what you mean by "threaded rod". A picture would help.
Why not use a double locking 23kN or greater steel krab, like a Petzl M73, as shown in my pic?
OK, I get it now. Put the spliced eye on the pin and the running end in the bow.
As long as the spliced eye is girth hitched, I don't see a problem. I still think a double locking krab is the way to go.
what about using a locking clevis and carting a small wrench on your belt to click it locked, thats strong, orientation wouldn't matter that much, it would take a bit of time to secure but not much longer then 1 minute, hook it up with the threaded rod in your splice and the fixed part of the clevis on the moving end of your climb line.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't understand what you mean by "threaded rod". A picture would help.
Why not use a double locking 23kN or greater steel krab, like a Petzl M73, as shown in my pic?
OK, I get it now. Put the spliced eye on the pin and the running end in the bow.
As long as the spliced eye is girth hitched, I don't see a problem. I still think a double locking krab is the way to go.
- Location
- White Rock, BC
a clevis is wayy stronger then in any situation, but it takes time to use and setup, if its your TIP then why not spend a moment to secure yourself as strong as possible.
- Location
- Bethel, Connecticut
I have been useing a carabiner to choke around limbs for years. A properly rated carabiner in good working condition will have no problem holding your body weight in this use. Most of the weight is taken in the rope as it runs over the branch. Don't shock load it and you should not have a problem. If you are still nervous use a steel carabiner, and always make sure it is double locking.
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
I know this may sound stupid, but has anyone ever heard of a flexible carabiner? A carabiner or some type of connector, that's rated for life support, but can flex and still maintain safe ratings and avoid side loading. A connector that could bend and flex and shape itself to the branch it's girthed onto. Driving back and forth from the job site today, I was thinking about it. Maybe the next big thing for manufactures. Maybe like a totally rubber carabiner or connector.
Just a thought. I think sometime like that would solve a ton of side loading issues when people want to girth a biner around a limb.
Just a thought. I think sometime like that would solve a ton of side loading issues when people want to girth a biner around a limb.
SingleJack
Participating member
- Location
- W MD
bump
After reading & re-reading this tread, you (we) got several very good tips, especially a real 'keeper' from Norm. However, it seems, you really didn't get what you were looking for:
[ QUOTE ]
... I much prefer to just sling the carabiner high over a crotch and clip it and choke it up, and then proceed to climb.
...
Give me your thoughts.
[/ QUOTE ]
You asked for thoughts ... so, FWIW, here's some thoughts (& some pix, below) about; ...
"sling", "clip", "choke", "climb".
1) LIMIT THE AMOUNT OF CHOKE, so the biner never sees any side load. Keep a rap-ring (RR) on your climb-line below the tip. Tie a stopper 8 a couple of feet or so above your biner. "Sling" & "clip" to the RR. Then "choke" will be stopped by the RR so the biner is loaded only along its major axis. "Climb."
2) CLIP THROUGH BOWLINE-ON-A-BITE, so the biner acts like a toggle. Tie a Bowline-On-A-Bite (BOAB) in the end (or anywhere) of the climb-line. "Sling" & "clip" the two loops of the BOAB around the working part. "Choke" & "climb". No added hardware with this one. Being able to use this mid-line might be a real advantage.
3) WOODEN 'SPACER' IN THE BINER. This might appeal to your genuine wooden climb tool genius. (BTW, great work with your Rope Wrench!) You asked:
[ QUOTE ]
... I have been madly trying to figure out what such a carabiner would look like and how it would work. any thoughts? ...
[/ QUOTE ]
If you designed a 'block' or 'roller' or ??? to keep one end of biner from contacting the limb then the the biner would be only loaded along its major axis.
Just thinking about your "great questions" in the OP. If nothing else, I hope this re-starts some creative thoughts and posts.
BINER TROUGH RAP-RING ON CLIMBLINE:
BINER, RAP-RING, STOPPER 8:
BINER, RAP-RING, STOPPER 8 - CHOKED:
BOWLINE-ON-A-BITE CLIPPED AROUND CLIMB-LINE:
BOWLINE-ON-A-BITE CLIPPED AROUND CLIMB-LINE - CHOKED:
After reading & re-reading this tread, you (we) got several very good tips, especially a real 'keeper' from Norm. However, it seems, you really didn't get what you were looking for:
[ QUOTE ]
... I much prefer to just sling the carabiner high over a crotch and clip it and choke it up, and then proceed to climb.
...
Give me your thoughts.
[/ QUOTE ]
You asked for thoughts ... so, FWIW, here's some thoughts (& some pix, below) about; ...
"sling", "clip", "choke", "climb".
1) LIMIT THE AMOUNT OF CHOKE, so the biner never sees any side load. Keep a rap-ring (RR) on your climb-line below the tip. Tie a stopper 8 a couple of feet or so above your biner. "Sling" & "clip" to the RR. Then "choke" will be stopped by the RR so the biner is loaded only along its major axis. "Climb."
2) CLIP THROUGH BOWLINE-ON-A-BITE, so the biner acts like a toggle. Tie a Bowline-On-A-Bite (BOAB) in the end (or anywhere) of the climb-line. "Sling" & "clip" the two loops of the BOAB around the working part. "Choke" & "climb". No added hardware with this one. Being able to use this mid-line might be a real advantage.
3) WOODEN 'SPACER' IN THE BINER. This might appeal to your genuine wooden climb tool genius. (BTW, great work with your Rope Wrench!) You asked:
[ QUOTE ]
... I have been madly trying to figure out what such a carabiner would look like and how it would work. any thoughts? ...
[/ QUOTE ]
If you designed a 'block' or 'roller' or ??? to keep one end of biner from contacting the limb then the the biner would be only loaded along its major axis.
Just thinking about your "great questions" in the OP. If nothing else, I hope this re-starts some creative thoughts and posts.
BINER TROUGH RAP-RING ON CLIMBLINE:
BINER, RAP-RING, STOPPER 8:
BINER, RAP-RING, STOPPER 8 - CHOKED:
BOWLINE-ON-A-BITE CLIPPED AROUND CLIMB-LINE:
BOWLINE-ON-A-BITE CLIPPED AROUND CLIMB-LINE - CHOKED:
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
YeP! thats what Im looking fgor. I especially like the bowline on the bight ideea. Great, i will totally be using that.
countryboypa31
New member
- Location
- PA
Very creative. I like them.
- Location
- Longmont, CO
For small diameter limbs I use a running bowline with a longer tail to retreive (which is not the answer you are looking for, but I feel the need to clarify this before I lead into my next comment)...
I like all of the suggestions above, but if the limb is large I dont't have any problem with just using a carabiner. It can be set in a way that there isn't any cross loading of the long axis or gate. It can also be set in a way the rope bend ratio isn't an issue.
But, I'm a rebel. And for liability purposes, don't do what I do.
I like all of the suggestions above, but if the limb is large I dont't have any problem with just using a carabiner. It can be set in a way that there isn't any cross loading of the long axis or gate. It can also be set in a way the rope bend ratio isn't an issue.
But, I'm a rebel. And for liability purposes, don't do what I do.
