choking carabiner

treebing

treebing

Been here much more than a while
Location
Detroit, Mi.
Anybody have any thoughts on how to make a carabiner that was made to choke around limbs? I think that would be a great tool. I Often find myself Alternate lanyarding up a tree in SRT mode and the repetitive tying and untying of bowlines is a PIA. I much prefer to just sling the carabiner high over a crotch and clip it and choke it up, and then proceed to climb. I've heard that choking flat biners on round branches is not so good.

I have been madly trying to figure out what such a carabiner would look like and how it would work. any thoughts?

Also, How bad is it? Like, it doesn't really seem that big of a deal until you get to like 3 to 4 inch diameter limbs and by that time I am basically there and can take my time setting my TIP the way I like. The other thing is that throwing the rope works better with a biner on the end.ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ45(my cat wanted you to know that)

Have people done break tests with choking biners? is there a magic diameter at which point things start falling apart. I assume that around the trunk the biner would be just fine especially given all the trunk friction. Not much weight would even reach the biner.

Give me your thoughts.
 
Hey Kevin, have you tried adopting that prussic hitch idea onto the climbline? Sling the biner into the crotch, clip it to the prussic loop, and cinch it like that?

As for your original question, I agree that it doesn't seem to matter much until you get into small diameter limbs. Around the trunk or a large limb, I can't see it affecting the strength too much.
 
Well see I need to be able to throw the rope high and then choke it by me and then pull it up. The prussic idea is great if you are right next to the limb your trying to secure to.
 
What if you got your lanyard through a big open crotch and pulled it down to you went out a couple ft. From your binner and tied a stopper knot, like a Alpine Butterfly and then sucked your binner up and it would slide all the way to the AB. You would have to be good at guessing were to place your AB but just a thought so the binner wouldn't cinch tight to the limb and you might have to use a small binner.
 
I remember reading an article where they tested carabiners being sideloaded. I'll try and find it. Why not just use a 2 in 1 lanyard and alternate on the the way up?
 
We used to choke the biner around limbs when using our winch. We originally had an aluminum biner, that lasted all of 3 pulls, we now use a 40kn steel biner and it's still kickin'.

This is a question for The one and Only Norm Hall.

I use a steel carabiner in my art cocoon set up (haven't gotten around to ordering a new large eye sling so I converted my old 1/2 split tail). It doesn't really choke or have all of the load but I wonder if this is a big no no
 
I think that the article or tests i saw were either done by Norm or House Tain. Maybe one of them can dig it up. I'm not finding it right now.
 
If your tossin the rope up over a suitable crotch, why not just clip the biner to your bridge slap on a cinch or other belay device to the other leg to take the slack out, and work your way up Ddrt up to the next point?
 
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If your tossin the rope up over a suitable crotch, why not just clip the biner to your bridge slap on a cinch or other belay device to the other leg to take the slack out, and work your way up Ddrt up to the next point?

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Its too slow for him
grin.gif

Let me know when you find the right tool for this.
I climb this way alot too
 
This test might be what your wondering about:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEuuYo2M0FY

I can't see the biner breaking unless there is already a underlying problem. An unlucked gate would probably be the most likely cause of mishap.

I use a running biner as well. And about a dozen other random tricks people keep comming up with.
 
Kevin, get a fixed loop large enough to choke on the limb you're climbing to. Put the loop over the working end of the line you want to choke, so it is 'free running'. Attach the loop to your harness. Advance your rope to the 'choke off' point, and pull it down to you. Clip in a 'life support' link to the end of the 'working end' and clip the loop onto that. Pull on the rope to pull the working end up, so you're pulling the loop up as well. Keep pulling and the loop will eventually 'choke' itself off. Easy off and advance once you get there. It's basically running a rope off to choke a krab on it, but putting a loop over the running rope first and connecting the krab to the loop.
I can post pics if it is easier to understand.
 
OK, just went outside and did it.

Step 1: Throwline to desired branch. Grab climbing line, install loop onto climbing line and attach to harness. Connect krab to throwline.
 

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Step 3: Pull on the running end of the climbing line, advancing the loop until it 'chokes' on the desired limb.

In the image, the string is on the loop to retrieve it. You may or may not choose to do this?

This method will also work with the 'knotless' rigging system. I've choked limbs from the ground and installed the rigging line while the climber was ascending.
 

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Maybe I should post this on the splicing forum, but what kind of 3 strand is that?

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It's a 7/16's" NER filament dacron, 5,900 lbs. ABS.
It's the 1st loop I pulled out of the back of my truck. I use it for knotless rigging. I used it just to show 'how to' set up a girthing loop. Since it was used for rigging, I wouldn't use it for "life support". I didn't want to use a hollow braid, due to the 'picking' factor, on that silver maple. Most of my knotless riggng loops are 3 strand. The stuff is exceptionally durable and can be spliced in less than 10 minutes.
 
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