dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
Are you using a locking biner to attach the saw to your harness or to your saw on your lanyard?
Check out this new Saw Lanyard I just got.
- Thread starter dsptech
- Start date
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
What is the mechanism by which the tip was caught?
Sounds like overcutting the far side, with a stump shot, possibly????
I use a piece of 3/8” Dacron tied to a screw gate HMS aluminum biner. Fits over the handle of every saw I’ve used. Used to be tied to one of those little accessory rings that came on saddles before, now it’s on another biner through a loop on the TM.
I had my saw get snatched a couple times when I was newer, but it always released before it got yanked from my hands. Now I’ll take the biner off the saw if there’s a chance of that happening or I’ll make a different cut that’ll prevent it. Was always long heavy laterals that tried snatching when I was trying to make it land flat. Seems to me anyways.
Just thinking about trying to land a large lateral flat vs saw snatch. To abate saw snatch you can make the upper cut inboard but then as the join wood snaps the branch wood "nub" has to get past the lower "nub" on the remaining stub causing some extra hang up to spin the limb. Or, make the upper cut slightly outboard and the breaking wood can form that slight slot that grabs the saw bar if it gets a bit of twist etc as it releases but there's no hanging up of the cut end of the branch.
Does this sound like the right assessment of the dilemma? The most horizontal drop technique introduces a bit of saw grab potential it seems.
Does this sound like the right assessment of the dilemma? The most horizontal drop technique introduces a bit of saw grab potential it seems.
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
Can you use a wire tie to attach it? Create a weakest link...
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
A max-depth undercut, with top-cut dead over/ slightly inside should come down flat.
From a height, the butt will gain speed faster than the tips, generally.
Sometimes, I'll make a kerf on the underside of the limb, 6" or so back from a Coos-bay type cut. First Coos-bay cut on the side of any extra side weight that might want to torque the cut. Second on the oppose side, then sharp and fast from the top.
If you're mid-way out a large lateral, where there will be a rebound of the large stub upward, beware of having it 'throw' your saw upward, aka don't lean over it if you like your face and neck. If you're standing on the limb, expect a bit of a shove upward. If you're hanging to the side, the butt may end up much higher, and you may be under it. Position yourself accordingly.
One large lateral activated my inertia-chain brake from it flicking up.
From a height, the butt will gain speed faster than the tips, generally.
Sometimes, I'll make a kerf on the underside of the limb, 6" or so back from a Coos-bay type cut. First Coos-bay cut on the side of any extra side weight that might want to torque the cut. Second on the oppose side, then sharp and fast from the top.
If you're mid-way out a large lateral, where there will be a rebound of the large stub upward, beware of having it 'throw' your saw upward, aka don't lean over it if you like your face and neck. If you're standing on the limb, expect a bit of a shove upward. If you're hanging to the side, the butt may end up much higher, and you may be under it. Position yourself accordingly.
One large lateral activated my inertia-chain brake from it flicking up.
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dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
I only use these thin lanyards on top handle saws only.
Girthed to the ring on the saw and clipped to the back of my harness that has ring on it.
That's why I prefer to not use a breakaway lanyard on the top handles cause I'm not dropping huge round with it.
When having to lug up a rear handle I use a strap with ring girthed to the handle.
I then attach my coiled breakaway lanyard clipped into the ring on the strap and my harness with small screwlock biners.
Girthed to the ring on the saw and clipped to the back of my harness that has ring on it.
That's why I prefer to not use a breakaway lanyard on the top handles cause I'm not dropping huge round with it.
When having to lug up a rear handle I use a strap with ring girthed to the handle.
I then attach my coiled breakaway lanyard clipped into the ring on the strap and my harness with small screwlock biners.
dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
A zip tie would do it.
Tom Lynch
New member
- Location
- Brockville
I have run the lanyard for a few months. I like it. The only time I notice it is if I happen to let it hang full extension after a cut, then have pull / flip the saw back to me. The construction is so thin that it is a bit hard to grip, kinda a funny thing to notice. In my mind, if that is the only time I ever think of it, it is doing its job just fine. Good reach with it.
Mine came with a very light looking wire gate carabiner that I swapped out. After mentioning it to them, it has been updated. Very happy with my experiences with @Elevation Canada
Mine came with a very light looking wire gate carabiner that I swapped out. After mentioning it to them, it has been updated. Very happy with my experiences with @Elevation Canada
dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
Leaving the saw in the cut too long when the face cut snaps.
dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
Nice!
I run the same saw.
For a second I thought someone had taken a picture of my setup when I wasn't looking.
Tony
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
dsptech, I get you, we all have limitations. My point is the same. Structure, your cutting to meet your needs. The days of a gravity release may be in your rearview. Don’t fortify yourself against possibility. Apply methods to alter the possibility.
Tony
dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
I'm good.
Before I would pull my saw out of the cut to the side (usually right side).
I learned to pull my saw straight back out of the cut instead of out to the side.
Tony
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
jonny, please take this as I mean it, in the spirit of helping a fellow tree dude out. That is one “Ify”set up. The cordage is too strong, the carabiner at the saw is way too big and knotting it to your harness compounds the issues I already pointed out.
The questions to ask: Why am I using a saw lanyard? Will it preform that function? is my cutting technique good?
I am not saying spend $$. I am saying ask “why”, then come up with a reasonable “how”
Tony
Tony
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Merle Nelson
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- SF Bay Area, CA
I was doing a parallel thing for 20 years or so. I would splice up perfect length saw lanyards with a chain quick link on each end out of 1/2 inch manila rope. I loved the feel of those things and that they were near free and just right for function.
Then reading about break away saw lanyards here on Tree Buzz I went and looked up the strength of half inch manila rope........
rope-a-dope
Branched out member
- Location
- Asheville
Both. I had the saddle end of my lanyard roll out the gate of a non locking petzl once. On one of the rare occasions that I dropped my saw. Had to replace the whole handle on my 150. I now don't like seeing all these tool lanyards coming stock with a little wire gate clip on the end. Totally negates the security of clipping it on the saw with a normal climbing biner.
dsptech
Branched out member
- Location
- North East
Mine came with a bent gate (not wire) with a keyed nose.
I welcome and appreciate honest criticism and advice, no worries there. It’d make for lame conversation if everyone did everything the same.
I’ve been using this for the past 14 years and I’m genuinely happy with it. Big screw gate let’s me swap saws without undoing a girth hitch.
The “why” is because it’s fast and secure. I can have my saw in hand and seconds, and can stow it in seconds. I’m not in the habit of just free fall dropping the saw til it hits the end of the lanyard, but I know that I can if it did happen, no matter if it’s a top handle or something bigger. I have no desire to own a breakaway after seeing one fail a while back, and although the climber was kinda rough dropping it, it was just a small top handle saw. I tend to baby my stuff, but I need to know that everything can take some hard use without failing. Broken saws suck, but far worse is if I drop something and kill or cripple someone, I couldn’t live with myself. My greatest fear in this work is hurting or killing someone because of some kind of failure on my part, so I decided I wanted a bomber saw lanyard and have zero desire to have a saw stowed right on my hip unless I’ll be in a situation where a swing might cause it to pendulum and hit something or myself.
I tried 3/8” Tenex until a gust of wind sent the slack dangerously close to a moving chain, so I went back to the stiff Dacron. Webbing with internal bungee, like the one posted in post #1 might be nice though. If I buy this lanyard, I’d likely girth hitch my old big biner on the end of it, instead of girthing it to the saw handle.
samsquatch
Participating member
- Location
- SE MN
I'm also in the breakaway camp now. I'm not using this lanyard, and I won't post which one I am using because this post is promoting a certain product.
But let me just say: if you're still using a cheap lanyard, upgrade it. your pelvis and ribs won't be able to handle pushing a big top over when the bar gets stuck in the kerf.
But let me just say: if you're still using a cheap lanyard, upgrade it. your pelvis and ribs won't be able to handle pushing a big top over when the bar gets stuck in the kerf.
