This is why I emphasize strongly that it isn't nutrients that you are after in compost, but microbes. If there is concern that there is too much nitrogen in the compost, then it isn't finished compost- it needs more carbon. If one is super concerned about adding nutrients, then make an extract/leachate of the compost and pour it around the dripline. The biology is where the magic is, not the nutrients.
I’m thinking the same thing just to cover more bases. I was going to ask you if you think it’s too late in the season?
Add a fence to that list, sounds like he really loves that tree. With the ag lease on the land one would need to make a physical line, a split rail fence or such would help keep whoever is leasing the land away and remind them not to cross the line
I will ask if they can provide an analysis of their compost. There’s another company locally that sells the below. Still need more information about it.
The kind of analysis that is available through labs I find in a search all give data in terms of biomass, or other similar metric. What I want to know about a sample is the diversity of species, which you will only learn through field analysis, or if there is a lab nearby, bringing a sample directly to the lab to be scoped within minutes of sampling. If its less than an hour to a university, you may get lucky with finding someone to look at your compost.I will ask if they can provide an analysis of their compost. There’s another company locally that sells the below. Still need more information about it.
There’s also the place where I dump makes their own mulch/compost I could ask the owner if he can give me more details.
About Sweet Peet
Sweet Peet is a 100% organic product made from composted ingredients harvested from local farming operations. Used as a mulch, its rich dark color and natural texture are the perfect visual enhancement in any landscape setting.sweetpeetohio.com
I don't think it's too late. Adults are emerging now through July. They'll mate and lay eggs that will hatch later this summer. Imidacloprid will take +/- a month to get into the tree which means it's there for the larvae to hatch a s start feeding. My only concern with timing is when it will be too dry so the chemical won't move through the tree as well.
I would definitely not spread manure yet. In the future maybe, but not now. You don't need yards of compost- you could innoculate the soil with a single bucket, but that it be some really good quality compost is more useful. I would even go with half worm castings. What you do, especially if you do have to go spread buckets of water, is put a pint or so- though more never hurts- of compost and castings each in a bucket of water and stir it for a minute and splash it out. It's the same area that you wanna be applying the biology anyway. You might ask the higher end nurseries in your area what compost and/or castings they use. Someone knows where the good stuff is at. Better compost yields more dramatic results. The mulch would go a real long way to aiding the biology in doing its job too, but I would wager that will have to wait for the soy to finish, unless you can haul it out in wheelbarrows... doesn't sound cost effective for the client.
