Bulldog Lynx

11.7 is too fat for the lynx, however I did make a device 10+ years ago using the next size larger link, which was essentially a ZZ with a proprietary adjustable headstock which did SRT/MRT on Tachyon.

The beeline is a very tough rope, which holds its shape well. My short piece has been tested on to the point where it has flattened in some spots and so will sometimes slip SRT with my weight.

The Diggity OAR will do what you ask, and has the benefit of having the top tending teardrop, which self tends it along well in MRT (or SRT)
 
11.7 is too fat for the lynx, however I did make a device 10+ years ago using the next size larger link, which was essentially a ZZ with a proprietary adjustable headstock which did SRT/MRT on Tachyon.

The beeline is a very tough rope, which holds its shape well. My short piece has been tested on to the point where it has flattened in some spots and so will sometimes slip SRT with my weight.

The Diggity OAR will do what you ask, and has the benefit of having the top tending teardrop, which self tends it along well in MRT (or SRT)
Thx for the clarifications. Beeline is tough but it is a relatively soft cordage. It needs to be soft enough (small bend radius) to function well as a hitch cord, not surprised it is flattening under load through the Lynx.

If you happen to have a 9mm kernmantle something like a PMI EZ-Bend (very firm line) I'm interested to hear how the Lynx performs on it. I'm very happy with my mini-wrench/8mm hitch cord on 9mm EZ-Bend but... the Lynx makes my spidey sense tingle ;-) Thx for all your work!
-AJ
 
The 9mm I have is stiff to tend, until it is flattened a bit by the Lynx, I would say it is not quite as grippy as the beeline, but will do SRT if some tension is held on the rope below the device.

Here is a 3 arm OAR I forgot about, and found on rope IMG_1537.webpwhen I was searching for the 9mm. You can feather the release MRT if you hold down the bottom two arms and then feather the top arm. In SRT, if you hold down the bottom arm, then you can feather the release by pulling down the middle arm, while letting the top arm take the majority of the climbers weight.
 
So here is an improvement to the Lynx. I replaced the rubber nubs with a machine screw and friction nut, so that the friction at the top arm can be dialed precisely for the rope dia. The bottom tending arm and larger bollardIMG_1549.webp improves tending and keeps rope on the correct enter/exit path through the device.
 
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In the picture, I have pulled down hard of the Lynx so it takes a sort of "set". When fully loaded the upper arm extends upwards and grips also on the rope, so fully loaded it binds on the rope a bit more at all 9 friction points. It ends up being a hands breadth long from the carabiner to the top extended arm. There are both a (solid) inner and outer bollard on the top link, then the first bollard down is also solid, while the bottom 3 bollards are nickel plated bollards which have a larger inner dia. which are pushed aside when weighted and form a sort of locked in place bollard which work in junction with the pins in the links. On a double 8mm rope, it releases much like a ZZ, and on a single line you have to modulate the top arm to release smoothly (with my weight) but it works surprisingly well. The bottom tending bollard also adds a bit of grip, by holding the rope against the bottom link pin. I will do a pull test at some point to see how much it will hold SRT on the 8mm.
 
In the picture, I have pulled down hard of the Lynx so it takes a sort of "set". When fully loaded the upper arm extends upwards and grips also on the rope, so fully loaded it binds on the rope a bit more at all 9 friction points. It ends up being a hands breadth long from the carabiner to the top extended arm. There are both a (solid) inner and outer bollard on the top link, then the first bollard down is also solid, while the bottom 3 bollards are nickel plated bollards which have a larger inner dia. which are pushed aside when weighted and form a sort of locked in place bollard which work in junction with the pins in the links. On a double 8mm rope, it releases much like a ZZ, and on a single line you have to modulate the top arm to release smoothly (with my weight) but it works surprisingly well. The bottom tending bollard also adds a bit of grip, by holding the rope against the bottom link pin. I will do a pull test at some point to see how much it will hold SRT on the 8mm.
That's not as long as I was imagining. I would really love to try that setup.
 

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