Bull Rigger Bollard

In that case nick I think it would be best to have a dedicated biner to leave attached to the plate. It would also be helpful to use to hang the device with a sling while mounting the strap. And the biner could just stay there on the plate ready for action. I'll put one on mine and post a video next week for a demo. Thanks bud
 
One other suggestion....for those of us who still hand-coil our ropes rather than use rope bags, twist is always an issue with bollards. The GRCS as well as my ratcheting bollard, only wrap clockwise. (And though the GRCS bollard will allow either direction, the fairleads dictate clockwise). How much trouble/expense would it be to add a second set of fairleads on the opposite side to reverse wrap direction when the rope starts getting twist in it? I often have my groundie reverse direction on the porty to eliminate twist. Just a thought....
 
I have made 1 with dual fairleads, but the big diameter of the bollard is very helpful in preventing hockling, I have heard from others who have my bollards and they say its ended the hockling. The drum is almost twice the diameter of the large porty. But if you would want fairleads on both sides it would be $30.00 extra
 
Have you taken the unit to be load tested?

Are you basing your ratings on the ratings of the components only?

They should be tested and rated in the final configuration to account for welding and a variety of loads
 
Tom, I'm going to be contacting some crane and sling manufacturers this week to see if I can get them tested. I'm 100% positive that the welds are rock solid and will withstand ANYTHING ANYONE can throw at them. So I would think that the wll of the strap would be the wll of the bollard. I did find some stronger straps that have mbs of 24,000lbs. Might start going with those.
 
Here's the latest BullRiggerBollard with company initials cut out in backplate..also straps come in blue,orange,yellow and paint color is optional as well to match company colors..
 

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Yeah Ricky, you can hang it from a sling and biner while you position it and get it strapped in. Check out my profile) pic... That's how a stock one would come.. thanks for the compliment bro...
 
You need interchangeable plates that bolt onto the back of your unit.

One for minimizing trunk damage when working a tree that's not coming down. A rubberized or high density foam backing.

And one for getting down and dirty, with angled steel spikes that bite even deeper if the unit moves upward.

IMO your unit's too slippery on the backside.

jomoco
 
Jomoco I have a one of these bollards and it does have a plate that bolts on for removals. You cut into the tree a bit and the plate slides in the cut. It's a nice piece of equipment especially for the price!! Ralph and I have talked a handful of times and I'm pretty sure he is in the process of developing a cambium friendly plate. Im not sure exactly what his plan for it is for it but I can tell you the quality of the welds this man does are top moth for sure so whatever he comes up with will surely be solid.

The one he built me has an upper D ring welded to the top. I like to use one of David's X slings to redirect my rigging line directly above the bollard. Also by using the X sling you can put a stopper knot in a rope above the sling then thread the rope through the ring and use the short tail of the rope to hang the bollard from by the D ring. This makes it very easy for 1 person to install the bollard by themselves.
 
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