Broken Aluminum Ring!

Steel is bomber for sure. I use them when I know I will be abusing them. Those FIXE rings that SRT showed are good as well, they are welded. Not that great for a friction saver with two different sized rings. I used the above testing method on two alum. biners. Placed in vise and hit with hammer with less force then to drive a nail. One biner blew on second hit, three hits blew it completely. In other words, it looks like that ring failed near the casting marks, a pull test would be more accurate.
Hammer + Vise + Biner(ring) = poor test method
 

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No Bivy

First, let me say that my intent here is not to disuade people from using aluminum. This particular ring has obvious metalurgical or manufacturing faults. The break occured at these locations independent of where the ring was clamped in the vice. I "tested" four other aluminum rings in this manner -two more from Sherrill (large and small), one large ART, and one large Buckingham. All four I beat senslessly with a 2lb. maul. Each finally broke raggedly (as in your carabiner photos) at the position it was clamped in the vice, only after bending approx. 60 degrees from vertical.
 
I looked at a new large ring, there are four "casting" marks every 90deg. That's where yours broke? I not looking for a fight, just info. Lets pull one apart and see if it blows in the same area at low tensile. I'll try monday, I hate to blow $, but it's all for peace of mind!
 
Putting an aluminum ring or biner in a vise and hammering it is creating extreme shearing or compression force, they aren't designed to withstand it. A pull test is what's needed. If you see cracks that's another story, toss it!

I have a couple of the Sherrill rings which appear to be cast. In general I prefer forged or milled aluminum life support hardware as opposed to cast. For instance the stock ring on a Butterfly bridge inspires confidence. It appears to be forged and milled.

No way I'm going to abandon aluminum carabiners for steel. Same goes for the rings, if it's well made I'm keeping it. Keeping weight down is important, there is a considerable margin of safety in well made and tested aluminum gear.
-moss
 
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Rock rap rings are a different beast. I wouldn't pass judgment yet. Where did those rappeling accidents occur with those rings?

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fair enough on the rock rap rings, leave those to the rockjockers...i was pointing out though that a disgustingly huge amount of rock climbers use the rap rings the WRONG way, they let their rope slide thru the ring, instead of rappelling down on both strands and THEN pulling down the line (how the rings are SUPPOSED to be used). So you get rockjocks with dirty ropes buzzsawing thru the aluminum rings and falling.

2 deaths (too many) locally as a result ("death by misadventure" as classified by the Coroner.

The FIXE rings i showed are welded, very well i might add, and if your making your own FS they are very good for it. For the bigger ring i use a 3.5" diameter (5/8" thick forged steel) stretcher rigging ring, rated at 10,000lbs MBS.


aluminum has its place (i guess) , but not for me. None, nada zilch. All my biners are steel, minimum of 45kn rating. the very slight weight difference is not an issue for me when working. When rec climbing, no biners, just a harness, rope and a plethora of hitches and knots
grin.gif
 
I have rappelled a lot on those rings, never a running rope situation, hence the name "rap rings". As you say leave that to the rockjocks, hahahaha! I don't know of any friction saver ring failures from tree climbing, do you? Don't judge alum. so fast SRT, youre hips would implode before a biner would break. Steel is def. first choice for work, where use and abuse of biners happens. The rings on a friction saver are a different ballgame. Keep a open-mind. Don't rush to judge. 90% of climbing gear is alum. Ride em' cowboy. 180lbs is a far cry from 10000lbs.
 
nope. aint touching the stuff. Not until i get my own personal metal xray diagnostic machine so i can run the gear thru daily to check for microcracks, metal fatigue etc....

i'll stick with steel thank you. everything i have ever owned that was aluminum has cracked...be it my custom $5000 downhill bike, aluminum cyl head on the truck, aluminum rap rings, biners, "light" rigging plates etc. ALL cracked over time. NOT putting my life on anything aluminum.

:)
 
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^
NOTE: if you look to the right of the page in that link, you will see the thinner aluminum rings, that are of hollow construction, 1/4", and meant to be used in pairs....THOSE are the ones that people have rappeled on and they have worn thru them...why MEC or any store is still selling them i do not know....)

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The hollow rappel rings that are sold to rock climbers are made from flat washers. They are stamped out from rolled sheet stock and then rolled into a ring. They might test at 2100 pounds in one direction or 2700 pounds in another direction, depending on the direction of the grain in the original sheet stock.

The McMaster-Carr catalog has lots of warnings about how welded rings are not rated for overhead lifting. On the other hand, a small C shape, like a chain link with a cut thru one side is still pretty strong. Probably not enough to take a fall, though.

I have some drop-forged steel rings made by US Forgecraft. They are 2.5 inch O.D., made of 0.25 inch diameter stock. They were tested at the factory at 7500 pounds. Unfortunately, US Forgecraft went out of business a couple of years ago.

BTW, If you see mil-spec parachute hardware with a number like 2500 pounds in the description. that is the proof load it was tested to before it left the factory.
 
dont worry about it. If you want i will even mail you out a FIXE steel ring for you to test and break!

email me your address if you want one.
 
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aluminum has its place (i guess) , but not for me. None, nada zilch. All my biners are steel, minimum of 45kn rating. the very slight weight difference is not an issue for me when working. When rec climbing, no biners, just a harness, rope and a plethora of hitches and knots
grin.gif


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Just wondering what kind of saddle you climb with? most saddles that are on the market have alum. attachment points

I climb with 10-12 biners on my saddle, if i converted all of these to steel, i would weigh 1000 pounds. Not to mention, i would have to give up all of my cool gear(rope guide, lock jack, ascenders, .....).

Rob
 
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dont worry about it. If you want i will even mail you out a FIXE steel ring for you to test and break!

email me your address if you want one.

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Don't bother I have a box of em, I leave em' for rap rings an my local crags since they are stainless. There is no question they are probably stronger. The point is that aluminum is safe if used properly.
 
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The point is that aluminum is safe if used properly.

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This photo still raises some good questions!

72565-general105LargeWebview.jpg
 
Your right Dan, it does raise questions, lets look for answers rather then speculate that alum. rings are bad. As soon as the snow melts here(7deg), I'll go break one. Check out the pics of the "hammer tested" biners, do they raise questions as well. If it tests out over 5k will you buy me another one, Hahahahahah, just kidding. I shoot a little video of the test. Let's keep this discussion peaceful and informative.
 
Bivy as others are saying, the dependability of aluminum is pretty well proven. What we are looking at is likely a manufacturing defect. Testing to failure other pieces of gear does little for those that may have rings from this same batch. I trust TLH when he says his ring was never abused. It looked to be of low wear in the photo.
 
I agree, that's why I am gonna test a gold, large ring that I ordered from Sherrill, just like that one. Hammer testing is inconclusive. Be back in a couple of hours with the info.
Some folks are saying alum. is bad, SRT for example. Which surprises me because I think he posted a thread about going superlight, even using black widow as a climbing line.
 
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