8mm vs 10mm prusik cord

To tie, maybe try just four wraps total, after tying the hitch bring the legs under the top of the carabiner, and then to the back between the legs and rope, the top left hitch in the picture below, the top right shows a side view. Next tie a simple/half knot, not sure of correct name, but it’s the first knot tied when tying shoes, the bottom left hitch. One eye was put inside the other, then the screw link was added.
38AD39C7-314A-4F68-8A65-020F1653C15C.jpeg
 
I made my own variation (Last pic I sent, pretty sure its nothing new tho) best one ive tried so far, I also put it on 12.7mm vortex instead of the velocity, buttery smooth now, it could also be from some pitch and crap on my other rope where as my vortex rope is almost brand new
 
it is actually pretty close, and due to the shape, putting it between the eyes on the hitch isnt an option, it would have a 90 degree bend to get through the snap, ive been using it for the last two days the way it is, and its a million times better
 
treesap said:
I have a 8mm x 32inch armorpurss prusik with sewn eyes, works great, one big issue, once I load it a few times, I can descend without a problem, but pulling my rope thru it when I go up is VERY hard, takes 30-40 pounds, im using it on 11.5mm samson velocity, anyone think a 10mm prusik cord would help? also, would a softer cord help stop it from locking up when I pull my rope thru
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Normally when you're ascending DdRT the split-tail is self advancing. This assumes you are not attempting hip-thrusting as your primary ascent technique. When I first switched from climbing on a Blake's Hitch system to an eye-2-eye split-tail system I was frustrated with getting off the ground. It works foot-locking the tail but is not smooth. Once I got a foot ascender into the game it was all glory ;-)

What ascent technique are you using and do you have a foot ascender?
-AJ
 
no foot ascender, what im doing is pulling down above the hitch, 2ft or so, then pulling my slack through the hitch with my other hand, I would try hipthrusting (to see if it works any better on my setup), but im not on a bridge, just a belay loop, so there isnt enough room for my arm to move when hipthrusting, never had an issue with a blakes tho, ive done footlocking, it works pretty well, but because ddrt is a 2-1, its VERY slow, and dont have climbing boots, just more or less logging boots, large heel hurts the footlocking
 
treesap said:
no foot ascender, what im doing is pulling down above the hitch, 2ft or so, then pulling my slack through the hitch with my other hand, I would try hipthrusting (to see if it works any better on my setup), but im not on a bridge, just a belay loop, so there isnt enough room for my arm to move when hipthrusting, never had an issue with a blakes tho, ive done footlocking, it works pretty well, but because ddrt is a 2-1, its VERY slow, and dont have climbing boots, just more or less logging boots, large heel hurts the footlocking
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That's definitely a tough way to go. Hip thrusting is only a slightly less tough way to go. See if you can foot lock the tail of the rope, your hitch will run up the rope fine as you ascend. Slack tending whether with pulley, dog snap or boat snap is for taking out slack when your feet are on a limb or tree parts.

When you're on the trunk during ascent you can footlock the tail with one foot, or foot ascender. Foot ascender is a very strong investment for climbing on a e2e split tail. Sell stuff you don't need like socks or your phone, whatever ;-) A foot ascender will make your climbing so much more efficient DdRT or SRT.
-AJ
 
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treesap said:
no foot ascender, what im doing is pulling down above the hitch, 2ft or so, then pulling my slack through the hitch with my other hand, I would try hipthrusting (to see if it works any better on my setup), but im not on a bridge, just a belay loop, so there isnt enough room for my arm to move when hipthrusting, never had an issue with a blakes tho, ive done footlocking, it works pretty well, but because ddrt is a 2-1, its VERY slow, and dont have climbing boots, just more or less logging boots, large heel hurts the footlocking
Click to expand...

I've posted this a lot in the past, it's how to foot lock using one foot DdRT or SRT, doesn't matter how big your boot heel is.

Essentially a half hitch around your boot, must be done as shown
447315264_cacb329180_b.jpg


Tip your toe down to lock
447314848_9eac845afe_b.jpg


Lift your toe up to run the rope through for the next lock. You can static hang off your arms as you're lifting your foot for the next lock. You can also sit back and hang off your hitch per lift/push cycle but it's much more efficient to hang off your arms during the foot lift/lock cycle and climb continuously. Sit back on your hitch when you want a rest during ascent.
447321005_ffe816a37b_b.jpg


You need to feed the rope thru your boot for the first couple pushes to get off the ground, once you're up 10' or more the lock starts to self tend. The more rope rope tail below you the easier it self tends.
-AJ
 
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Another option is to extend the hitch so that you’re pulling under it, but not so far that you can’t reach the top of the hitch to descend. Either push it up by hand, or bridge the two sections of rope together and it self tends as you pull down.
Look in to the O Rig system for moving ropes to be able to adjust the distance of the hitch from you easily.
 
Jonny said:
Use a swivel dog snap for tending, it’ll work a lot like a Shizl rope slider and is self orienting. Cheap zinc one is maybe 3$ at Walmart or Home Depot.
It’s only to tend the hitch, it should be bearing 0% of your weight.
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I use the Shizl on my lanyard (11mm PMI with 8mm armor purs distel) and its smooth as butter. The Shizl really is... the Shizl. Never tried it on my main line though.
 
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