8mm vs 10mm prusik cord
- Thread starter treesap
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Cereal_Killer
Branched out member
- Location
- Ohio
Never ran that combo but armorpruss is really good stuff, it shouldnt be an issue. I only have a couple manufacturer eye2eyes, mostly I just tie cut lengths but the few I have are 24" or 26", I think brockys onto your next issue. 32" leaves a lot of excess cord below your hitch to deal with.
the amount of tail I have isnt even enough to stop the heat shrink from rubbing
although that may be part of my issue, the heat shrink could be acting like a brake, im gonna get the prusik cord sampler from treestuff and make a few cords, and see what works, because of all my issues, this one is enough of a pain for me to not put up with it
although that may be part of my issue, the heat shrink could be acting like a brake, im gonna get the prusik cord sampler from treestuff and make a few cords, and see what works, because of all my issues, this one is enough of a pain for me to not put up with it
Cereal_Killer
Branched out member
- Location
- Ohio
Here you are ignoring advice and spending money you don't have again. You don't need to reinvent the wheel here bud, you can use what you have, just gotta dial it in!
If you insist on spending money buy a pully, it's half the price of the hitch cord sampler and will be a bigger help.
I don't run anything but HRC across all my ropes (ranging from 10mm to 1/2" and everything in between), just cause I like it and I bought a large amount of it. With a little tinkering and the right know-how you can pretty much make any cord run on any rope. I really don't think cord/rope combo is any of your problem here, that combo should definitely work together, it's well within the recommended starting range of sizes.
If you insist on spending money buy a pully, it's half the price of the hitch cord sampler and will be a bigger help.
I don't run anything but HRC across all my ropes (ranging from 10mm to 1/2" and everything in between), just cause I like it and I bought a large amount of it. With a little tinkering and the right know-how you can pretty much make any cord run on any rope. I really don't think cord/rope combo is any of your problem here, that combo should definitely work together, it's well within the recommended starting range of sizes.
Where you getting these technical facts? Rope size:cord diameter isn't any sort of set in stone rule. It's all just a starting point. Same as tying the VT with different numbers of wraps vs braids. Experiment what works for you.
1, I need more hitch cord (Multiple ropes, PLUS I want to try other stuff, 2 I AM going to buy a pulley, and about the size info, was pretty sure rule of thumb was 2mm smaller than your climbing rope although I may be wrong, and your right, its money I dont have, but fixing what I got is kinda important
and I am trying to use what I have, heck I could go back to a blakes hitch, and I might, but, for now, im gonna fix what I spent money on
and I am trying to use what I have, heck I could go back to a blakes hitch, and I might, but, for now, im gonna fix what I spent money on
Crimsonking
Been here a while
I don’t see a problem with trying different cords. A company I worked for issued me 8mm beeline, and it locked up tight with a VT no matter the rope I used.
As for the diameter rule of thumb, the purpose that was explained to me is that the closer the diameters, the easier the hitch will slip. Ever tie a hitch using a bigger diameter than the climb line? Doesn’t work. Personally, I like to keep my diameters closer than 2mm for less friction. More than 2mm doesn’t violate the rule- technically my preference does. Ultimately the rule boils down to: what holds you when it should, but not when it shouldn’t- use that.
As for the diameter rule of thumb, the purpose that was explained to me is that the closer the diameters, the easier the hitch will slip. Ever tie a hitch using a bigger diameter than the climb line? Doesn’t work. Personally, I like to keep my diameters closer than 2mm for less friction. More than 2mm doesn’t violate the rule- technically my preference does. Ultimately the rule boils down to: what holds you when it should, but not when it shouldn’t- use that.
speaking of what holds you when it should, when I was starting out, I would always put a slipknot under my friction hitch lol, I do notice that my hitch does seem to have to much friction (When I pull down to release it I dont go anywhere, I have to do a sawing motion on the hitch (Pull down, let go, repeat) could also be the fact im only 115 pounds, so im not pulling much on the rope
Crimsonking
Been here a while
32” hitch and only 115 lbs- definitely the problem. Shorter hitches will be your friend.
A lightweight climber I worked with (not as light as you) liked to match his hitch diameter to his rope diameter. If you think about it, it’s like going back to the feel of a closed system when you tie a Blake’s with your rope tail.
I would have got a 28 inch but they were out of stock, I do like less friction tho, maybe a 28 inch 10mm armorprus I2I?
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
I switched to mechanicals a while back and pretty sure I won't be switching back. I have a hitch climber pulley collecting dust if you'd like it. Just cover shipping and you can have it.
I dont have paypal or a card of any sort, so I dont know how id cover shipping, would depend on if my mom already ordered the Notch micro pulley combo I was looking at, she or my dad could paypal you the shipping costs tho
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
You might try setting up your carabiner like the hitch here. This is a picture of my DEDA (double ended double adjust) lanyard. The hitch side is my secondary lanyard so its not used often but works pretty smooth as a lanyard adjuster. It may work well as a climbing system as well, I haven't actually tried it for that.
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Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
I've PM'd you, we can get something worked out.
Tony
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Crismonking got it. The relation ship of hitch cord size to host line.
For clarity, the “rule of thumb” is 1mm or 1/8” smaller on hitch cord to host line. But as stated this is a guide and based on MRS systems and host line diameters from 7/16” to 1/2”. Not a bad starting point for any system though.
Having said that, For a hitch that is going to be moving while you work (climbing hitch, lanyard hitch) smaller that 8mm on any host line is generally considered the minimum. Less than 8mm and there simply is not enough rope fiber to get the consistency and life span we need.
For static applications, (the knot is set and stays put while loaded) 6mm works well.
ive tried that as well, doesnt work that great on my settup (I am also climbing from a belay loop, so all my gear is jammed together, maybe I should put some webbing on that loop, to put my climbing system up a foot or so from anything else on my harness
I use the belay loops and the two loops connecting it to the harness, For some reason when rock climbing your supposed to use the two small ones and belaying you use the big one, if something happens, its putting the same load on either set anyways, its cramped. im thinking of just putting some webbing thru the small loops, to act as a bit of a bridge. Also, that hitch looks very complicated, but im gonna try it real quick
I couldnt figure out how to tie your hitch that way, but I tried a variation of it, assuming it works good, ill be happy, it doesnt seem to like to catch on a gentle pull, but anything more will make it grab, any way you could make a video on how you tied that?
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