I would also suggest not heat shrinking the end to the working part, if it's open you can take out the biner and the knot can unravel itself if you're trying to pull the end through a tight crotch.
We're all in agreement that we shouldn't take any sort of fall, it was more of a hypothetical point in our ongoing discussion of the benefits of MRS vs. SRS. The spruce is also nothing we wouldn't climb without a nearby tree.
My boss and I were having a disagreement today about the difference when taking a fall into a climbing system, he was of the opinion that a MRS system would be better to take a fall on, because you would get more stretch because of the amount of rope in the system, while I think you would get...
As I commented on the video, I only would've done it with two safety to prevent that swing with the knife in the hand.
Other than that, great test, the results were what I was expecting, although I still panick if I see a tiny little nick in my rope...
I saw that too, just not sure if they only say removable to show that you can install things yourself, and change them out.
Also, the manual has removal instructions for the drive-in bar, but you can only use that once, since you have to cut it...
I don't have any safety concerns using mine...
I have a DMM PerfectO w. a screw in captive bar, just wondering if anyone knows if it's allowed to use it without the bar installed? The manual doesn't say anything about it, only that you're not allowed to use their biners with a drive-in captive bar without it.
We need to see pictures of how you set it up. A list of your gear doesn't tell us how your using it.
To start though, you know you will only be able to go up 30' with you climbing line if you're using MRT, right? That's probably enough for hunting, but might get boring for recreational climbs...
Had it running and did some cuts with it, after a while the carb had adjusted itsself to where the throttle response was lagging. Could that be the carb, since everything was tight? The increase in RPMs on the side was still present.
I got the pump working now, everything seems to be tight. I did check the cylinder bolts again, I did get a liitle bit of movement on two of them, maybe that was the issue.
Didn't have a chance to run it for a bit yet.
I have source for aftermarket bearings, but it's probably better to just go with oem.
No, you don't have to get Dirko through stihl. At least not here in Germany. I have an equivalent product by UHU, which is a german company. They are not low quality either.
Would the high temp silicone you put on the crank seals be something to use on those? It only says oil resistant on mine...
But I'd probably just go oem there too, they're not expensive. I'm assuming I should get oem bearings as well, right?
Hard to tell if the ones they have are that slim... The ones I'm looking to replace are only 5mm wide at the pivot, my Knipex ones are all 9mm. They looked pretty slim like the Strapon online though.
If I open up the crankcase I get to replace everything that could be the issue. Not sure if I'm going to use the aftermarket seals I have, or if I'll go completely OEM.
That bearing puller looks like it could work. I just replaced my cheap screwdrivers with a set by Wera, so I have plenty of...
I think I'll hold off on enlarging that fuel line hole.
Will do on the testing in different positions and such. Still waiting on a reply from the dealer on exchanging my pump.
Ok, I'll just go back to tuning by ear, at least for the L and LA side.
Maybe I did something wrong when changing...