Which knot and why?


Well-Known Member
I'm making myself a long lanyard (just shy of 30') out of a leftover piece of New England KMIII. I'm tying a nice heavy steel CT Pillar carabiner on the throwing end because it has some good weight to it and want to know what you rope expert guys think is the better knot. My instinct is to tie a fisherman's knot to secure it, which enables me to use a plastic thimble inside the loop and to heat-shrink the tail to the working part(although I haven't done either yet). I have read though that the anchor knot may be a better choice for some reason. The cons are that I now have 2 wraps inside the biner and the tail sticks out sideways. Also can't use a thimble or heat-shrink. The pros are that it has a bigger bend radius inside the knot because of the loops going around the tail and this rope supposedly doesn't do well with tight bend radius. Any clear thoughts on one or the other? Pictures attached for reference. Thanks in advance!


Tom Dunlap

Here from the beginning
DF'mn and seize the tail

Anchor is not a good one in stiff rope. The tail can act like a marlinspike and wedge itself open. Not a 'fair' knot.

At the loads we expect to put on these knots, given the biner diameter, bend radius isn't that concerning. Someone has done rope breaks I'm sure
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*useless info*

Well-Known Member
Fisherman's over Anchor,
Anchor, places it's 3arc Round Turn(RT) on the host krab
>>this degrades force trace to end more than single Turn
>>AND provides a stronger Nip of that lesser Bitter End/ tail
>>Half Hitch doesn't provide ARC Nip, but rather Nip from ends drawn together, not even half as good
>>knots are comprised of only 180 arcs and straight parts, straights don't Nip strong
>>Nip from Half Hitch is from straight part ends pulled in opposite directions
>>Nip from anchor is from 180 arc who's ends are pulled in SAME direction
This can literally make 'a ton of difference'!
Fisherman's too employs the 3 arc RT science but places it on the Standing Part
>>ABoK lesson#1669 : "..a round tum on the standing part adds materially to the strength of the knot."
knot guru knudeKnoggin adds valuable KEY lesson not in text:
>>only if Single Turn on host, if RT on host precedes RT on Standing Part the effect is lost
>>i read that as the power to grip Standing Part is taken away to do it's job to mitigate efficiency loss.
Later ABoK in lesson #1720: "..If a spar is small a round turn is preferable to a single turn. It makes a stronger knot and dissipates the wear."
>>But that doesn't seem to be the part of the powerband we are in now
>>but anyway, can't use both effects together as turns on krab over-write turns on Standing Part effect.
(side note: Ancients used RT and 2 Half Hitches if rope too stiff to make Anchor Hitch and RT + 2HH was sometimes called Anchor in old texts)
Please see these aren't just old texts, but those lessons that have stood the test of time and again as Ashley was trying to capture and hand down a view of things fixing to be lost in his own time! Things that would not have made the turn past the previous century if not for him, let alone the most recent of 20ys ago.. This is part of our rope commanding wood, supporting life in real world of Natural forces heritage! With lessons as few other,especially their raw intensity.
Also, the Fisherman's offers double trap Nip of full arc forces,
and is streamlined for this usage w/o Tom's Toggle serving perpendicular to the line flow
i favor Triple (around Standing Part)Fisherman/Scaffold/Noose type builds.
When see testing on this for life and other loads see Double whatever around Standing Part with krab as host mount.
Also, on a light krab, Triple rather than Double turn adds some to throwing or yo-yo return around a spar standing on and back to ya type weighting.
i played with thimble idea, but usually not, unless squarer host mount of snap sometimes.
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