If it stays hung up swing it out, and back and forth, either by hand, or with a piece of rope. Try going around the back as it goes to the side to leverage it out.
Try cutting so that it moves sideways a little each time, rather than dropping straight at the tree. The top will sometimes roll out of the other tree.
Just noticed them on some of my smaller trees, going to have use binoculars to inspect the taller ones. Been using Wasp and Hornet jet spray to reach them.
The wraps would still be taking a lot of the load when using your device, and it would extend the hitch, and be harder to tend.
Being able to completely transfer the weight to a device and off the cord is my goal, like in #324, or #338.
For hand tending, the rope only needs to be lifted out and up about 90 degrees, doesn’t enter the groove, it just acts like a piece of tube tender.
To use for descending, lift up 180 degrees for it to go in the groove, and then use a couple fingers to compress the wraps.
Not sure your idea’s...
I got a chance to retry the system in #239, does provide more friction, makes releasing a little easier, but harder to tend, a trade off.
I mostly use the SGBII shown in post #149, on page 8, quick and easy to use on the fly, keeps the rope free to footlock.
A few years ago I came up with a...
I think understand now, not sure if it would work, a lot would depend on the stiffness of the rope, too stiff and it won’t bend into the v groove, and it won’t wedge as much as getting pinched. The hand tending might take more effort with the additional constant friction.
I found that the slight bend in the rope at the center of the ring causes the hitch to release easier than the pinching when using the solid Sticht plate. Also too much bend at the ring will lock up the rope. The four sections of cord from the twist, or six if tying a stopper in back,also...