I bought a 35-ton splitter years ago and it has paid for itself many times over. On big rounds you just roll them up to the splitter, flop them over onto the foot of the splitter and split. It is still a lot of work to slide the rounds around when you are splitting, but much easier than trying...
Seems to me there is a simple solution to all of this. There are so many other good ropes out there, why buy a rope that is a pain in the ass to splice and that the manufacturer will not provide good splicing instructions for? Guess I am just feeling old and grumpy today.
I just got on the McMaster-Carr website and they sell expandable sleeving in many different material types and diameters and in lengths ranging from 10-1000 foot rolls.
I think he did it that way because it will trash the loop on the Toss Wand if you try to pull the cover through the section where the core and cover overlap. It is too tight to fit the wand, plus the core and cover through that section at the same time, and it will fray and break the loop on...
I used the Nice Guy Dave method for years, but have found that it is easier to just use a 32" wire fid to do the entire bury in one pull. It is much faster and easier than doing the pull in two stages. And it will save you spending a lot of bucks on a Toss Wand.
Thanks Phil. Guess they don't like the Globe 5000! However, with frequent replacement I seriously doubt there should be any issues. I am so paranoid I change my bridges about twice a year, and I am not a full time climber.
I have been using 10mm FSE Robline Globe 5000 M2 to replace the bridges on my old Treemotion. The best buy I have found for this cordage is Landfallnavigation.com. It sells for $1.57 per foot in bulk. At that price I can replace my bridges frequently and never worry about internal wear.
@39Buick, those are the same instructions I follow except that I remove the inner core half way between marks 2 and 3 instead of at mark 2. That makes the taper a little more uniform and I think it makes the bury a tiny bit easier. I don't think it effects strength much at all, as those inner...
@39Buick, Just out of curiosity, where did you start the cover taper? Some of the older instructions I came across years ago said to measure down the rope 1.5" from the crossover mark and then count 9 piks down the rope from there before starting the taper. I don't do that. I measure down the...
It looks to me like you probably did not taper the tail on the cover and/or core quite enough. That is why you have the slight bump about 5" from the end of the rope. It also looks like the cover is a bit bunched up where it is pulled back into the throat of the splice. These little details...
I think as long as they keep the splice from loosening up they are all fine. And yoyoman is correct. The purpose of a lock stitch is not to add strength, it is to make sure the splice stays put. Other than that, it is all cosmetics.
I sent pictures of the Clip'N'Step boots to Wesspur and they sent the pictures to the manufacturer in Italy. We got a response within a day "This is a defect, too little glue between the upper and lower sole. We will replace free of charge". Nice to know that they are going to cover it! And...
I tried the Akimbo on Vega and had issues with the cover bunching up (milking) below the device on descent. Have you noticed this? I did not have the same problem with the TAZ.