rope runner pro

I did not remove my bolt, but the only break was the slight head torque I had to overcome to loosen. I would be willing to bet that if I removed the bolt it woul reveal no loctite. I am a mechanic by trade and a mechanical engineer by degree, so I have a feel for these kind of things.

I have been wrong once before though.

Whatcha say, Mr. Mech. E.?
 

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There is nothing wrong with the Allen wrench. It fits and works just fine, and I think it is essential to provide one since most people will need to adjust the bollard for their rope. The wrench does not fit very deeply in the bolt, because the bolt is understandably designed to be as low-profile as possible. So there is not much of the bolt head for the wrench to "bite" making it more important to keep the wrench straight. But it works fine if you just pay attention.
 
First world problems.
Right. I just spent $275,000 on a new Lamborgucci with a 2000 house power V24. I said fuck it and had em' pimp out the interior with their top of the line virgin baby lamb leather seats, and a dashboard made from 4000 year old Bristlecone Pine. Imagine my surprise when I realized my neurotic ass can't stand the smell of virgin baby lamb leather.. Oh well, I guess I'll have to sell this POS....
 
Right. I just spent $275,000 on a new Lamborgucci with a 2000 house power V24. I said fuck it and had em' pimp out the interior with their top of the line virgin baby lamb leather seats, and a dashboard made from 4000 year old Bristlecone Pine. Imagine my surprise when I realized my neurotic ass can't stand the smell of virgin baby lamb leather.. Oh well, I guess I'll have to sell this POS....
Wow, total frickin bummer. :oops:
 
Thank you to those that identified initial issues with the Allen key. They sell decent t handle wrenches at every hardware store and every online market.

On to the product itself, are people finding it easy to take off and reinstall? I have a hard time handling those slick pins with gloves.
 
Thank you to those that identified initial issues with the Allen key. They sell decent t handle wrenches at every hardware store and every online market.

On to the product itself, are people finding it easy to take off and reinstall? I have a hard time handling those slick pins with gloves.
I like Atlas Fit nitrile coated gloves and have no problem with slic pins but they are super thin gloves. Anything bulkier and I have problems too. You can get cheaper gloves but the Atlas Fit brand hold up a little better. That goes for the rubber coated ones as well.
 
Thank you to those that identified initial issues with the Allen key. They sell decent t handle wrenches at every hardware store and every online market.

On to the product itself, are people finding it easy to take off and reinstall? I have a hard time handling those slick pins with gloves.
Have you used any device with slic pins before?
 
Are you having issues depressing the pins or having them drop low enough to rotate the parts that open?
The pin in the bird has neat little trick that releases one of the slic pin tabs by rotating the slick pin.
Takes a bit of practice.
The other two pins can be finicky when trying to rotate the arms out of the way.
To me the tabs on the slick pics release the same as the pins on the quickie.
I wear the Wells Lamont coated gloves from Walmart.
 
Is the manual saying in part 8, that a hand ascender can be used WITH a foot/knee ascender, but never by itself (with a foot tether, or without) because when used in conjunction with a foot/knee ascender, the lower ascender will likely block the RRP from falling down the rope were the upper ascender to release and collapse on top of the RRP?

The manual states that you can choose to use a hand ascender in combination with foot/knee, but NEVER with any type of tether to the hand ascender. The reason is that if your weight is in a foot loop/tether and the device becomes disabled it would collapse the RRPRO and cause freefall. Using a foot ascender or other cammed ascender under the RRPro is not a mitigation of this risk and shouldn't be considered as such.
 
The manual states that you can choose to use a hand ascender in combination with foot/knee, but NEVER with any type of tether to the hand ascender. The reason is that if your weight is in a foot loop/tether and the device becomes disabled it would collapse the RRPRO and cause freefall. Using a foot ascender or other cammed ascender under the RRPro is not a mitigation of this risk and shouldn't be considered as such.

...and I guess you cannot simply 'let go' with a foot stuck in a foot loop, as you could with a failed hand ascender, correct? Makes sense, man. Thank you for the reply!
 
It's always the first
T handle isn't the way to go. The normal L bend is the way to go. The length needs to be long enough to fit in hand correctly. The L bend allows you to hold your tool close to the device and steady all breakout forces and keep the tool from slipping.

I find it very fast and easy to remove and install on a line. I have more trouble with the pulley going around the other side of the friction plate when the side plate is off than anything.

You can use a t handle the exact same way, but you're right, a regular Allan wrench with a little more length would work. The t handle was stuck in my mind because I work on bikes and they are much faster to use once the torque is broken. I was more or less trying to direct the conversation away from the freebie wrench that everyone seems fixated on and back towards the performance of the device.
 

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