Acerxharlowii
Branched out member
- Location
- Greensboro
It was. It was just that initial adjustment you have to be careful with. It’s tight at firstI think it would have been advisable to just leave the allen key out. seemed like a nice touch.
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It was. It was just that initial adjustment you have to be careful with. It’s tight at firstI think it would have been advisable to just leave the allen key out. seemed like a nice touch.
I did not remove my bolt, but the only break was the slight head torque I had to overcome to loosen. I would be willing to bet that if I removed the bolt it woul reveal no loctite. I am a mechanic by trade and a mechanical engineer by degree, so I have a feel for these kind of things.
I have been wrong once before though.
If a shitty Allen key is the worst problem so far your doing pretty damn well.I think it would have been advisable to just leave the allen key out. seemed like a nice touch.
If a shitty Allen key is the worst problem so far your doing pretty damn well.
At least they did you a favor and didn't use the red stuff....Whatcha say, Mr. Mech. E.?
Right. I just spent $275,000 on a new Lamborgucci with a 2000 house power V24. I said fuck it and had em' pimp out the interior with their top of the line virgin baby lamb leather seats, and a dashboard made from 4000 year old Bristlecone Pine. Imagine my surprise when I realized my neurotic ass can't stand the smell of virgin baby lamb leather.. Oh well, I guess I'll have to sell this POS....First world problems.
Wow, total frickin bummer.Right. I just spent $275,000 on a new Lamborgucci with a 2000 house power V24. I said fuck it and had em' pimp out the interior with their top of the line virgin baby lamb leather seats, and a dashboard made from 4000 year old Bristlecone Pine. Imagine my surprise when I realized my neurotic ass can't stand the smell of virgin baby lamb leather.. Oh well, I guess I'll have to sell this POS....
I like Atlas Fit nitrile coated gloves and have no problem with slic pins but they are super thin gloves. Anything bulkier and I have problems too. You can get cheaper gloves but the Atlas Fit brand hold up a little better. That goes for the rubber coated ones as well.Thank you to those that identified initial issues with the Allen key. They sell decent t handle wrenches at every hardware store and every online market.
On to the product itself, are people finding it easy to take off and reinstall? I have a hard time handling those slick pins with gloves.
Have you used any device with slic pins before?Thank you to those that identified initial issues with the Allen key. They sell decent t handle wrenches at every hardware store and every online market.
On to the product itself, are people finding it easy to take off and reinstall? I have a hard time handling those slick pins with gloves.
Is the manual saying in part 8, that a hand ascender can be used WITH a foot/knee ascender, but never by itself (with a foot tether, or without) because when used in conjunction with a foot/knee ascender, the lower ascender will likely block the RRP from falling down the rope were the upper ascender to release and collapse on top of the RRP?
The manual states that you can choose to use a hand ascender in combination with foot/knee, but NEVER with any type of tether to the hand ascender. The reason is that if your weight is in a foot loop/tether and the device becomes disabled it would collapse the RRPRO and cause freefall. Using a foot ascender or other cammed ascender under the RRPro is not a mitigation of this risk and shouldn't be considered as such.
T handle isn't the way to go. The normal L bend is the way to go. The length needs to be long enough to fit in hand correctly. The L bend allows you to hold your tool close to the device and steady all breakout forces and keep the tool from slipping.
I find it very fast and easy to remove and install on a line. I have more trouble with the pulley going around the other side of the friction plate when the side plate is off than anything.