So as I ponder chippers you guys and gals get to answer all my annoying questions

Now that I corrected that tiny flaw in the system here is what I found and adjusted after talking to some tractor guys who love these carbs.

Where it was set at:
Idle speed - 400 rpm
Running speed - 1,300 rpm

Based on old tractor guys I raised the idle to 900 - 1,000 rpm to have enough air speed at idle to actually pull the gas up. Works well so far, almost no fuel left in the intake drain now.

Raised running speed to 2,000 rpm free spinning. Need to tweak loaded and with some wood chipping.
 
Do you know about anvil gap adjustment/ replacement? Bolts on blades and anvil are supposed to be torqued to spec and replaced periodically (so many tightening/ loosening cycles), fyi.
 
Thst reminds me though, I need to go figure out the bottle jack thing or however you get the tolls seperated without the hydraulic crusher.
 
Okay so maybe not bottle jack. I need to look into this one. Here are some pics from different angles of what it looks like. It might be hoist from above only.
20170204_160344.webp 20170204_160400.webp 20170204_160425.webp
 
When I was looking down at Rick's he had some like that and showed me them and how they worked but this one appears void of the connections needed. One of the Bandit vids I watched showed the mechanic using a hoist to raise it up. Monday I am going to eye your system up. I doesn't look all that complicated to fab the upper holder and add a cylinder. If I do that I will probably just add the valves for a future winch. I'm told the hydraulic Mile Markers work great and are less then $1,500 to buy.
 
monkeylove said:
When I was looking down at Rick's he had some like that and showed me them and how they worked but this one appears void of the connections needed. One of the Bandit vids I watched showed the mechanic using a hoist to raise it up. Monday I am going to eye your system up. I doesn't look all that complicated to fab the upper holder and add a cylinder. If I do that I will probably just add the valves for a future winch. I'm told the hydraulic Mile Markers work great and are less then $1,500 to buy.
Click to expand...

How is your shoot? Often those were designed to be lifted with the chip shoot. Try and follow me here. You would spin the shoot so it was facing backward and use the hydraulic hand lift from that....but you have to have an adjustable shoot to do that.

You will want to fabricate something to lift that if you don't have the adjustable shoot. It will get jammed, and its a pain to remove the springs to lift it. We used out bucket truck, or dingo to lift ours as needed and that was always a pain.
 
monkeylove said:
When I was looking down at Rick's he had some like that and showed me them and how they worked but this one appears void of the connections needed. One of the Bandit vids I watched showed the mechanic using a hoist to raise it up. Monday I am going to eye your system up. I doesn't look all that complicated to fab the upper holder and add a cylinder. If I do that I will probably just add the valves for a future winch. I'm told the hydraulic Mile Markers work great and are less then $1,500 to buy.
Click to expand...

I scoured the net for an hour or so looking for a picture and only found one very poor showing of the set up. The fab work seems like it would be fairly easy for either method. @SuperK was going to fab a hydraulic lift set up for his bandit as well, I'm not sure if he has gotten to that project yet or not. The worst part will be the valving I think. The good thing is with bandits wheel design simple cuts eliminate most of the need to lift the wheel especially on a small machine.

I kinda like Royce's idea of lifting from the chute. I'm not sure what your springs are like, but mine are very easy to disconnect making the slide box almost liftable by hand on that unit. I really wish I could find a picture of the tounge jack set up as it is super simple.
 
Shoot swings 360 but I would have to try that method out. Thanks Royce.

The valves aren't cheap for sure but plumbing them in doesn't bother me. It really just comes down to the design and flow patterns you want to have when you're all done. Thanks Mert.
 
Forgot the springs Mert. Long eye bolts with nuts that are easy to adjust. In fact I need to write that dimension down so after I remove them I can reassemble them with the same tension.
 
monkeylove said:
Forgot the springs Mert. Long eye bolts with nuts that are easy to adjust. In fact I need to write that dimension down so after I remove them I can reassemble them with the same tension.
Click to expand...

You can also hit them with a shot of spray paint on top which will give you a reference mark to line up on. But you are better with the tape measure than I anyway so your way is probably better :).
 
monkeylove said:
When I was looking down at Rick's he had some like that and showed me them and how they worked but this one appears void of the connections needed. One of the Bandit vids I watched showed the mechanic using a hoist to raise it up. Monday I am going to eye your system up. I doesn't look all that complicated to fab the upper holder and add a cylinder. If I do that I will probably just add the valves for a future winch. I'm told the hydraulic Mile Markers work great and are less then $1,500 to buy.
Click to expand...
@AxeTree I believe has added a lift/crush cylinder to a Bandit. If you can find a salvage unit you can rape the parts from that. Including the winch. Be weary of Mile Marker. They used to be my favorite years ago. In more recent years I've learned they are made in China. Buy quality ..... once. Even a used winch that needs a new line and tlc. Good luck.
 
monkeylove said:
Shoot swings 360 but I would have to try that method out. Thanks Royce.

The valves aren't cheap for sure but plumbing them in doesn't bother me. It really just comes down to the design and flow patterns you want to have when you're all done. Thanks Mert.
Click to expand...
I don't think valves are that expensive. Just make sure you get a motor spool for the lift cylinder and and a cylinder spool for the winch motor. Sounds backwards but we use them differently than most.
 
tc what's a cylinder spool? A motor spool is a hydraulic motor?
Edit: a spool ... stupid me!!!! In the valve assembly ....Duh!!!
Sometimes I should think a little harder before I open my mouth ....
 
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