Who is this groundy.....

See if this is any better.

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Way too much crap for me, bro.

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Kinda what I thought, too...I have trouble telling what is doing what. /forum/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
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Way too much crap for me, bro.

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Don't need no stinkin' muenter with your tauntline, eh?
 
The muneter takes all of the weight when using srt on a spar, so your hitch does not lock up. It is very easy and fast to put on or off.
 
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Way too much crap for me, bro.

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You could do this same thing with the taughtline. It's really just adding a carabiner above your hitch and connect it to your harness with some room above the knot. This will allow you to fly off of a trunk with no nubs or branches and not worry about spiking all the way down. Really easy and quick. (Safe too if that matters /forum/images/graemlins/smirk.gif)
 
I also find it much easier to operate a large saw on a spar using srt because you can lean into your hitch instead of just using opposition with climb line and lanyard. Much less body tension. That is important for skinny ass.
 
THanks Todd for that picture. Now I can see how that is set up. I will have to give that a try now. I always used the figure 8 decender but was just not working smoothly for me and I would get the bind up. I will have to experiment with this now and see how much that helps.

Thanks for taking the time to post that pic. Very much appreciated.
 
Here a photo of how I use a figure eight under my Vt on SRT taking down a spar.

I have a delta on by butterfly that is low on my saddle down near my left leg strap. It's part of a saddle mod. This is where the figure eight connects via a biner.

The figure eight and the Vt stay about six inches apart under load. I just pull down on the Vt with my right hand and use my left on the figure eight. Lowering to my next position is easy with the Vt loose using the figure eight. When I want to stop I just let go of the top of the Vt and it locks.

Dan
 

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I prefer a choked adjustable friction saver over the choked SRT method. The AFS can be used as the friction saver during the climb and then choked on the stem for removing the wood. When working the stem, the AFS allows you to sit in the saddle (vs. just leaning against the lanyrd D-rings), is easy to install, and can be easily retrieved even if there are vines, stubs, or large crotch areas on the spah. Any of the various RG's are ok too.
 
Been there done that, unfortunately. My groundy was afraid to let a piece run. I learned to be locked in before I let the piece go.

The friction saver is a good idea for providing a secure tie in for the climbing line.
 
Looks like classic didn't let it run. Seems like I can hear the rope when the top comes over, the ground man probably took too much wrap. I agree with you MB, move with the spar. Seems like the guy didn't really brace himself, his arms bent as soon as the top contacted the pole and then he became superman. Slick srt rig Tod k. Betcha if that guy would have had his weight on his climb rope via srt or other method he would've had two hands on his saw. With just the flipline he put his left hand on the nub for balance. Either way it still put a grin on my face
 
freakin hillarious
i agree with setting a false crocth or rescue pulley to tie into and take your weight rather than just have a strap around the tree. its also better than doubling your strap around the trunk in case it splits. allows a speedy exit if needed.
i've been in that climbers shoes before and will hand pick my own rope man or it aint happening .. i also would a slapped that groundie on the head for that little maneauver.
 
TreeCo, the significant difference between your setup and the setup Tod K is running is that your friction hitch is taking all the weight while his is not.

No matter what sort of friction device you're using (muenter hitch, 8, etc.) and friction knot (prusik, VT, etc.), it often makes good sense to locate the knot below the device because you will be utilizing the strength of the device and requiring less of the knot. Someone earlier mentioned his prusik getting locked up; moving it below the device will solve this problem.

I learned that from a climbing book (I believe the title is From Gym to Crags, published by the Mountaineers). All the other sources I've looked at put the knot above the device, but locating it below makes more sense to me.

I like how you've rigged the delta down low on you leg strap; that seems to keep the whole setup closer to you.

Shayne
 
I'm sitting here thinking (primarily that I should be sleeping :) that if the friction hitch is below the 8 then your lower hand will be both controlling the rate of descent and tending the hitch. If the hitch is above, then one hand does each.

I've had it happen with the hitch below the 8 where the 8 swallowed a piece of the hitch and locked me up tighter than a drum in both directions. Not necessarily the end of the world but sure to be an inconvenience. Unless you were trying to get down in a hurry and/or without the full use of an appendage; then it might be the end of the world.
 
Hey...I have seen that clip before! A friend of mine sent it to me as a joke. I didn't think it was very funny at the time, but he got it from this web site called "ebaumsworld"
http://www.ebaumsworld.com/emovies.shtml
If you go about 2/3 the way down the page you'll find it. it's called "Tree hugger" even though that's not exactly what happened. Don't get addicted to the site...there's alot of crazy stuff on it.
Ohh... and as far as the munter hitch... I like my VT above the munter. It's easier to keep separate, also...I tried having the munter above the VT, but when I was on the spar I felt that I was reaching too far for the tree to make the cuts if I had my weight on the SRT.
Thanks, Andrew
 
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