Who is this groundy.....

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As for distance of fall, I believe it's:

Distance of Fall = Distance from the Block to Center of
Gravity of the Falling Piece times 2.

So all things being equal-block position compared to notch compared to tie off, the distance of fall will be different with a 10 foot spar than a 20 foot spar.
Of course a close block to notch position enables greater control, but don't forget about the extra inertia factor when dealing with longer spars.

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I think the equation is:

Distance from the block to the center of the length (not necessarily the center of gravity) of the falling piece times two.

(From "All in ALL, It's the Same Distance of Fall", Peter Donzelli, Arborist News, Dec. '99).

But this measures how far the center of the piece will fall. The center of a longer piece will fall farther than the center of a shorter piece and obviously the top of the longer piece will also fall farther. This is important when you are trying to avoid hitting obstacles below with the top of the piece, but it does not follow that the piece will end up farther from the block and the climber.

Given the same block-to-notch position, length of rope, and weight of the piece, the butt (cut) end of a ten foot long piece will end up the same distance from the block as the butt (cut) end of a twenty foot long piece. In both instances, the butt end will begin at a certain distance above the block, rotate around the block, and end up the same distance below the block.
 
Butch I think it sounds like you have a good technique......but about your left arm? Isn't it dangerous to be putting your arm around the tree as the top is coming off?

Dan

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Actually, I work with "groundies" that do that to me all the time. I compensate by roping smaller pieces, and my technique for securing my perch is to become at one with the tree. With my left arm I grip around the trunk as it's bending forward, squashing my left pec into the tree. As it snaps backward I go with it, hardly feeling anything.

If your body is NOT CONNECTED to the spar, your ass is grass.

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I say "Choke off or get off" on a spar. The safest place to be is still in the tree. (That's two rhymes already!)

Use a lanyard and a climbing system that is chocked around the spar and you will not get through off, skid down or be left without a quick exit.
 
Butch is the first person to mention taking smaller pieces. The top in the video is huge. Always place your life support system above the rigging. Always have 2 means of life support when using a chainsaw in a tree.
 
This brings up a good point Mark. When cutting a top or trunk wood for that matter I always use the choked off climbing line method and buckstrap. I use a running bowline with my climbline with a prussic attached to my belt and then a figure 8 friction device since you are now single rope. However, maybe you can give me some pointers I find that my prussik gets tightened up bad on my climbline and I can not lower myself down with my climb rope to my next spot for my next cut. I know I am supposed to use my friction device to take some off of my prussik but I must have bad technique it dosn't work as smoothly as should be. Do you have any pointers on what I can do??????? Thanks.
 
Hmmm, may have to try that. Are you using a 3wrap 6coil or a 2wrap 4coil prussik. I am currently using the 3-6 I think I am going to try and start using the 2-4 might keep it from binding up so much on me.
 
Gary, An "Underbed" is where you wake up shivering and terrified after nightmares about getting slammed around by a big top. /forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif





Really they are talking about the notch.
 
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Gary, An "Underbed" is where you wake up shivering and terrified after nightmares about getting slammed around by a big top. /forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Really they are talking about the notch.

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I likes dee explanation.

But...would that "underbed" be a notch that slopes down from the top and slopes up and in from the bottom...maybe a 120 degree notch vs a 60 degree (horizontal bottom cut and a slope into that)?
 
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I use a Munter hitch above my prusik. Works much better than an 8.

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Agreed. The article I wrote was first published in TCI around '97 or something. Since then I've tried many things. I like a quick muenther above the hitch as well. I sometimes will clip it below if I don't have a strap on me to lengthen it.

This will not get you as close to the trunk when working, but will allow the hitch to work more easily.
 
Hey todd or mark,

Would one of you guys be able to post a pic of that setup? I can't seem to visualize how that is setup. If you could it would be very appreaciated. Thanks guys.
 
Actually, I thought it was a hardhat with one of those sun-protecter things around it. I've been meaning to look into one, even though they look a bit dorky.

I'm tired of getting the liquid nitrogen to my ears 'bout annually! /forum/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
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Can you make that any darker?? /forum/images/graemlins/bur2.gif

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Some of youse guys ARE funny!!

See if this helps. (but focus I can't fix)
 

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