Where would YOU make the cut?

[GeorgeR]

Hmmmm ... who is paying me to make the cut, and where do they want it cut.

 

[guymayor]

[ QUOTE ]
Hmmmm ... who is paying me to make the cut, and where do they want it cut.

[/ QUOTE ]

The answer to the first question is easy.

How do you answer your second question?

 

[PassionForTrees]

To me that branch in the picture illustration is a poor example. You cant see the whole tree and it's surroundings and what type of tree it is and what the customer wants in the first place. so many scenareos that it can be taken all the way back and be the right cut or the red or the blue or above the blue even. What's better for the tree in my opinion based on all my years of knowledge would be LESS IS better for the tree, and more frequent pruning needed to achieve clearance and uniform shape. But it you are clearing for structure or wires or new addition it has to be pruned more. What was done in the pic with the Tulip was a good attempt but fails to meet the standards and looks like [pick a different word]! IMO who leaves stubs and thinks they do good work??

 

[familytreeman]

In the March 2013 Tree Services magazine there is an article entitled, "Why Topping Hurts Arborists"

It describes how we all know that topping hurts trees..

But when you leave a topping cut and weakly attached limbs sprout off the stub, and one breaks and hurts/kills someone

then it comes back to hurt the Arborist, in court

 

[Frax]

Generally blue line cuts. But it depends on quite a few more things too.
Health of tree, species, and human concerns... costs and return visit costs.
I cut as little as I can to achieve a goal.

But... you ever have this happen? ...you can't get a high enough tie in on certain trees (like elms) to get to the tips you really want. So, you're forced to cut bigger pieces. Maybe they are still reasonable cuts to appropriate laterals and the client usually likes more rather than less but it's still not what's probably best for the tree.
Do you do it, or elect not to cut at all? Most of the time the pruning goal isn't for the trees benefit anyway. It's to clear a roof or something.

 

[guymayor]

The cut at the red would create more sprouting and more decay, =higher maintenance. The objective was lower maintenance.
"I cut as little as I can to achieve a goal." me too.

"But... you ever have this happen? ...you can't get a high enough tie in on certain trees (like elms) to get to the tips you really want."

You are NOT forced to cut bigger pieces. If your boyfriend didn't get you a bucket truck for Christmas, then use a pole pruner, and a 2nd TIP. Very easy. What, he didn't get you a pole pruner either? Cheapskate!

Cuts at the red line are not reasonable cuts to appropriate laterals. If the lateral is >1/3 but goes off at a right angle and leaves a wound facing the sky, it's not the best choice.

 

[Frax]

[ QUOTE ]

You are NOT forced to cut bigger pieces. If your boyfriend didn't get you a bucket truck for Christmas, then use a pole pruner, and a 2nd TIP. Very easy. What, he didn't get you a pole pruner either? Cheapskate!

[/ QUOTE ]

We have a ridiculous number of tools for a two person operation.
And we can engineer all kinds of creative TIPS for maximum benefit.
But no bucket.
I've done my share of reaching with pole tools at height. It sucks but if it's the only way, it gets done that way. It's problematical when a piece can't just be dropped. And if you can get close enough to tie it off, you don't need a pole tool anyway.

So I maintain that sometimes you can't get to the piece you really want.

I realize there are people who claim they can access by rope every limb they've ever needed to cut with a chainsaw or handsaw only. Good for them.

 

[RopeShield]

Elms bend really well. Just pull it closer. Sometimes you don't even have to climb or leave a nice station with good footing and room to wield your pole.

 

[treehumper]

You could use said pole to set a line and lower the piece.

 

[guymayor]

Good points--poles can be used to pull the branch closer to you, set a line to pull the branch closer to you, or set a line to lower.
Or undercut, then as the top cut is nearly done, snag the end with the hook end of the blade and fling it away from the roof.

Obviously with chunky sections over fragile roofs, the other 2 options are more prudent...

 

[pigwot]

At the 49th ISA Penn-DE Chapter Shade Tree Symposium there was an interesting talk By Dr Ed Gilman:

10– 11am Reduction Cuts or Removal Cuts: Does It Really Matter?
Ed Gilman, Ph.D., Professor of Environmental Horticulture, University of Florida

He showed through studies that a trees response to such heading cuts were counterintuitive and in many cases restricted limb length without deleterious effects, and often with less eventual decay.

 

[guymayor]

[ QUOTE ]
He showed through studies that a trees response to such heading cuts were counterintuitive and in many cases restricted limb length without deleterious effects, and often with less eventual decay.

[/ QUOTE ]

I heard that too. It's encouraging to hear that someone had their ears and mind open. Unless others get their eyes and ears and brains working, despite all the good work by Dr. G and others, the 'heading cuts are baaaaaaaaaaad' myth shall endure.

 

[ginkobalboa]

What about aesthetics? In the example the red cut makes the branch look like poop. At least, making the blue cuts, the final product still resembles a natural looking branch, which would be very important to me if i was the client and the branch was right above my deck were i would be looking at it all the time. If I can still meet the other objectives of the situation, I would go beyond the blues.