when the root hits the clay

tanglehorn

tanglehorn

Hello tree buzz, I have a question about a situation I've recently ran into regarding new plantings. These plantings are in their 3rd year and are about 4 - 5 inch dia. at base.. They are Eastern hemlocks and bald cypress trees. These trees are showing some signs of stress. (ie. Yellowing/dying needles scattered about the trees.) You can tell the planting holes are quite small and Im thinking that maybe the roots are making it to the clay soil. It has also been a wet summer.

okay, so what I'm really looking for are opinions on if this is likely the issue and ways of breaking down that clay barrier and rootzone remediation techniques.

Thanks in advance for any help

Tangle
 
I worked on some mature hemlocks today. There were needles all over the driveway underneath. There aroma was awesome. I figured it's just time for them to do that but I am not sure either just saying could be natural.
 
The wet summer should not be a factor so much with those species. Bald Cypress grow naturally in swamps and E. Hemlock in the wet gaps of the mountains. Small planting holes are usually the culprit in many situations. I would dig around a bit and see how tight the holes are. It will also give you a look at any water issues. My standard planting pit rule is 3X ball diameter. Some holes get really big.
 
It sounds like you will need to look into how compacted the soil is, how much clay there is, and then depending on all the factors, determine how much of the area around the existing rootball/planting hole to loosen and mulch to promote good root regrowth.
I am not a fan of amending the soil other than putting down mulch. And by that, I mean adding peat or other products to change the composition. Living up here I'm not familiar with those species, but we do have heavy clay and silty soils that compact easily. I've tried to airspade compacted clay, but it doesn't work all that well. My best success in getting planted trees to survive the clay jungle is to plant shallow, loosen the soils the best you can, very wide planting holes, and then mulch, mulch, mulch (properly of course).

So long story short, try and loosen the soil beyond the hole, then mulch.

The other problem that may be occurring is if the sides of the planting holes where sheered (the clay slicked together creating a wall). If that is the case, then you may have to re-dig the trees and start over for any measurable results.
 
Here Hemlock is sensitive to environmental change like drop in the water table or saturated soil for extended periods.

Garden forks the heavy 4 or 5 tine type used for turning over vege beds works well to open up/aerate soils.
Drive the tines in deep and wiggle to and fro.

Mulching as said will allow roots to come to surface to respire more effeciently. Mulching after aeration or there is potential for root suffocation
Best of luck
 
Hemlocks love acidic soils with a lot of organic material. Use an airspade to de-compact the first 8-12 inches, mixing in compost. This will allow the roots to escape the planting hole. At this time, check and make sure that the burlap has been removed.

Also, use coarse woody chips to mulch the trees in a 5' radius to prevent re-compaction. It sounds like a little fert wouldn't be a bad idea this fall and spring as well. PHC for Trees is my fav.
 
Hey thanks for the advice.

what do you guys think about vertical mulching?

maybe take a long one and a half or two inch diameter drill bit and break that clay barrier with it.

Im excited to take on more PHC.
 
If you don't have access to an airspade or similar device, even a garden tiller would be better than vertical mulching in my opinion. I only say this because it sounds like the trees roots are not going to be damaged since they are most likely stuck in the planting hole. Putting holes in the ground around the current planting holes away from the roots is assuming the roots can still grow out too them. If they could do that, they wouldn't be stuck in the current planting hole already.
 
In heavy soils especially it's good to plant in saucers rather than holes. Dig to a proper depth then dig out and up to make a large saucer. Breaking up the soil has the potential to allow the new roots to establish themselves in the soil. In time we all hope that they'll break into the natural soil too.

What Sam is proposing with tilling can accomplish this post-planting. Be careful not to till the soil too much. If it's clay and damp...does clay ever really dry out or does it go directly to pottery?!?!?!...you'll want to end up with chunks of soil not fine texture. At the time of tilling you might add in some well composted wood chip material. Not a lot...add in some nutrition but don't try to alter the soil too much.
 
Im gonna bump this thread with an update on this job we have conserning the Hemlocks and Dawn Redwoods. (Before I had stated that they were Bald Cypress).

Ok so we were assuming that the decline was induced by clay soil at the edge of planting hole. When we futher explored the roots and reviewed the soil test, we found the roots appeared to have major root tangle issues stemming from nursery pots along with burlap and cages still on. The test showed a lack of K & P but not overly clayey soil. On top of all that they were planted deep from the get go.

So going forward, does anyone have suggestions on correcting these root issues. In other words, the clay is not the issue but I am unsure of the best way to correct these roots. ( assuming I excavate the rootzone 8"-12"). Has anyone had much success cutting girdled roots and redirecting others the best you can?

Thanks
 
[ QUOTE ]
...we found the roots appeared to have major root tangle issues stemming from nursery pots along with burlap and cages still on. On top of all that they were planted deep from the get go.

So going forward, does anyone have suggestions on correcting these root issues. In other words, the clay is not the issue but I am unsure of the best way to correct these roots.

[/ QUOTE ]

3 years in; too late maybe to replant. Post pics for informed advice. attached one view. plus this from tcia site http://tcia.org/sites/tcia.org/files/A300Part8-Drft4-V1-PubRev-05-2013_1.pdf
 
I have had good results with root crown excavations at least 1 foot in diameter. Better to go to as far as you can sell. As far as the girdling roots. If you can sell an air spade then excavate and find the suspect roots. If you decide to cut them then get watering rings to supplement and restake.

Probably cheaper to remove and replace in the long run.

http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/roots.shtml
 
How deep were they planted? Look for advantageous roots coming from the trunk, if this is the case then you are already behind the 8 ball. This typically signifies a weakness in the trunk. Is there any merit with the grade of the area to excavate to bring the level in line with the planting? Either way good luck.
 
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