What to tie into?

I prefer tieing into the boom rather than on the line above the ball. when tied into the ball if it swings or you pull on it while limb walking and let go the momentum of the headache ball will jerk you clean of your perch. also the operator can winch up and down for what ever reason and you don't have to pull allot of slack. I also like 4" steal pulley as a t.i.p. at the end of the boom. You can always carry a friction saver to hitch a ride if needed on the clevis already in place above ball.

as far as riding the crane into the tree it saves time because you choke your first pick or the next couple as well while you have that great high T.I.P. Then change your T.I.P. start cuttin.

save your energy for clean up and that ash grove your climbing tomorrow.

$0.02 cha ching
 
I will get one soon. I have a friction save on the pin that would hold the extension in. It is above the hook but hangs near the hook.
 
Here's a picture of my tie in techinque from a class I taught about a year ago.

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And for those who are paying attention there are two stick booms and two knuckle booms in the backround
 

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Here is my TIP sorry for poor picture quality
 

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Here is a couple pics of pulling a fuel pump out at a truck stop
 

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3
By the way how do you get the pics in the post.That would be much easier.
 

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Its a little harder, you put them in an attachment as usual, then open the attachment, copy the URL of the attachment, then go back and edit the post and down below where you typed there should be a shortcut that says <font color="blue"><u>Image</u> </font> click on it and paste the URL in the box that pops up.
 
Another reason not to tie onto the hook is that the metal of the hook can be burred by metal slings,and would be sharp and then damage your rope.
 
I always figured the main reason was that the hook isn't designed to have enough saftey to make sure the climbing rope or friction saver doesn't come out of the hook.

Just like biners for climbing have to have the 3 way movement to open them, and snaps have to have two movements to open them.

I know some hooks on cranes have nice saftey latches, but some of those break over time and some cranes don't have them at all.

I really think this is why.

they wouldn't care about burs or wonder if a hook is cracked. Shoot, the cable clamps or cable or boom for that matter could be cracked or damaged.

It's gotta be because a rope could come out of the hook and kill a climber.

Much like happend a few years ago here in MD.

hispanic climber, hot dog crane operator, hoisted climber, climbers climbing line in the hook. Hot dog operator sends the poor guy down through the brush of the crown, ball inverts as climber or line is stuck (crane operator not likely paying attention), climbers line comes out, climber falls to his death.
 
I know the techniques for tying in to an american-style crane (the wire with the big ball at the end), but how do you tie in to a "european style" crane? Like for instance a Grove GMK3055 (55 tons)?

I normally always climb the tree because there is no rules for being lifted in the crane in Denmark, so the crane companies won't do it.
 

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That is just a block for parting the line, you can still tie into those above the ball or through the hook, so long as you use a masterlink and the hook has a closed and locked gate.

The 3055 comes with the hook you showed and the traditional single part round ball. we use both frequently
 

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