Rigging with karabiners

[Leonidas]

I was just wondering how many people tend to rig with just a steel krab on the end of their lowering line and just choke it round the piece they're lowering. I've worked with quite a few people who do it, seen many videos of it being done and I've done it myself, however I can't help but worry about the impact the krab may take, the cross loading potential and the potential of the gate opening. A sling girth hitched around the timber and attached to the krab, fair enough but just the krab....any opinions?
Cheers

 

[Analog]

I've done it plenty over the years, often preceded by a half hitch, which takes most of the weight. I don't use the carabiner for most negative block spar rigging, only lighter weight stuff. Always a steel carabiner, on a tight eye splice or a cinching knot to maintain the proper loading axis. Now that they make the At Height choker carabiner, in RED for RIGGING and GREEN for LIFE SUPPORT (that's how I code things anyway) it seems like it's perfectly acceptable.

 

[southsoundtree]

If concerned, 2 half-hitches plus choke for heavier loads.

 

[Matias]

I've done it a bunch without problems. I bought the ISC Wizard for that purpose, as it's rated for 70kN, and has an option for a rated gate. Years later and the gates still operate flawlessly. I also feel like the shape makes it easier to ensure that it maintains prooer orientation

 

[Friedrich]

i do it all the time and i always make sure that the spine is loaded. might not be 100% perfect but it is fast.

 

[Mick Dempsey!]

I do it on every job, put a half hitch in front on the critical/big stuff.

 

[Keeth]

I've done it a bunch without problems. I bought the ISC Wizard for that purpose, as it's rated for 70kN, and has an option for a rated gate. Years later and the gates still operate flawlessly. I also feel like the shape makes it easier to ensure that it maintains prooer orientation

Same here. The Wizard is a cool piece of kit. To alleviate the gate loading, I always orient the carabiner along the spine, and usually take a round turn (so two loops instead of one) around heavier pieces to reduce side pressure and to reduce the possibility of it coming loose if the piece bounces unexpectedly.

 

[Matias]

When I was first learning, I called up Dave Stice at Wesspur, and he said he does it, and recommended keeping loads under 300#

 

[Serf Life]

Not apple to apples, but we've used various biners on twitch lines with the mini and absolutely romped on them repeatedly. The only ones that broke over the years, iirc, were downgraded aluminum ones (and somewhat on purpose). A 1/2" worn rigging line knotted (~60% strength retained) should be the weakest link.

 

[Boomslang]

I've done some stupid stuff with choked biners.
The only one that ever failed was one that was choked at the top of a stem as a pull rope and had a 30" DBH poplar trunk smash it into concrete

 

[flushcut]

All day every day. I’ve never broke a steel biner or bent one but I have smushed the locking collar.

 

[pcpTR33]

I will no questions asked unless I’m chunking down spar, then it’s back to knots for me. I know notch tried their little knotless rig tool and I think hexarope has been pushing there own deal too but the wizard as previously mentioned holds up just fine.

 

[Friedrich]

i know people who don‘t and will only use knots. strength (splice) and speed … for heavier pieces i use the slickpin-shackle by cmi.

 

[chiselbit]

i know people who don‘t and will only use knots. strength (splice) and speed … for heavier pieces i use the slickpin-shackle by cmi.

We use the slic pin a lot.

 

[Matias]

The slic-pin shackle seems like the ticket. When I start rigging with my own gear again, I'll definitely pick one of those up.