Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
The back of the saddle will do just fine, the back of the poor guy that gets dropped out of the will probably be broken though. And likely he will be stuck hanging upside down too.
Wedgin' n jackin'
- Thread starter evo
- Start date
Merle Nelson
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- SF Bay Area, CA
Don Blair was going to have the Bry-Dan saddle redesigned and rated I believe. Not sure if he ever got it done.
hseII
Participating member
- Location
- United States
Other than my ergovation with the correct suspenders & about 2 others, I’m not familiar with any.
Certainly not any without the top half of a harness.
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hseII
Participating member
- Location
- United States
That’s why dorsal attachment points are superior in a lift application: when you fall the force is spread out over your shoulders, waist, legs together rather than primarily your back.
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TreeVB
Branched out member
- Location
- Boise, Idaho
Exactly my point.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
@rico
Do you think the Salt Creek jacks are the best bet of what's on the market. You mentioned them somewhere.
I have a little elbow tendonitis flaring up, so I didn't want to beat over this backleaner spruce. No wind, tight wedges, 20t bottle jack. Quick and easy.
I'd much prefer using a real tree jack, again, especially with a gauge.
The double-stacked wedges were deeper than the back of the tree by the time it went over. Maybe opened the back-cut 2.5-3".
Do you think the Salt Creek jacks are the best bet of what's on the market. You mentioned them somewhere.
I have a little elbow tendonitis flaring up, so I didn't want to beat over this backleaner spruce. No wind, tight wedges, 20t bottle jack. Quick and easy.
I'd much prefer using a real tree jack, again, especially with a gauge.
The double-stacked wedges were deeper than the back of the tree by the time it went over. Maybe opened the back-cut 2.5-3".
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
@rico, will you speak to the pressure you use in different scenarios.
The Silvey's I used a few times were always on big trees. My supervisor liked 5,000 psi as a starting point.
The Silvey's I used a few times were always on big trees. My supervisor liked 5,000 psi as a starting point.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Small, basic tip. When pounding wedges, I leave my saw in the backcut, moved off the wood toward the rear of the tree. If I hit a wedge and the saw moves, I know to stop before I trap my saw. I can progress the back-cut without cutting the wedge tips.
Another basic tip.
A long wedge, tip just into the back-cut loosely, dangling down a hair, makes a 'tattletail', informing on the tree moving forward when the wedge droops more.
Another basic tip.
A long wedge, tip just into the back-cut loosely, dangling down a hair, makes a 'tattletail', informing on the tree moving forward when the wedge droops more.
Merle Nelson
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- SF Bay Area, CA
Ahh, good tips. I never stop learning and never stop being amazed that I didn't notice/learn a thing on my own. 
Tree-Taylor
Branched out member
- Location
- Canada
Fundamentals of general tree work has a good section on wedging and jacking. That book is timeless.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Can’t tell from the angle of the photo but go to a fab shop. Have them take a chunk of 3/8 plate about 5”x5”. On one side weld beads or “tits” for texture on the other weld a small 1/2” section of pipe just bigger diameter than the head of the jack.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I also keep some stubby wedges. For smaller trees where you can’t fit a wedge with a bar.
Start with one of those 6” wedges to keep it from sitting back pull the bar out and open the kurf with lil one. Then place the stubby one beside it once it’s open enough to fit.
From there remove the lil wedge, put saw back in and cut and wedge as needed, you get the lift needed, but shorter length for bar room
Start with one of those 6” wedges to keep it from sitting back pull the bar out and open the kurf with lil one. Then place the stubby one beside it once it’s open enough to fit.
From there remove the lil wedge, put saw back in and cut and wedge as needed, you get the lift needed, but shorter length for bar room
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
I'd like a real tree jack.
A plate in top of the jack that doesn't pivot will not work.
I have thought about a plate set on top, unaffixed.
A small bottle jack top presses into the wood, preventing slipping. It left about a 1/2" deep circular indent.
Again for the record (nothing pointed at anyone), small tree, about 20" across the cut, short for the girth, no wind, tight wedges the whole time.
It I blew out the seals from something unforeseeable, it wouldn't sit back. I would have gutted the hinge and pounded it over.
A plate in top of the jack that doesn't pivot will not work.
I have thought about a plate set on top, unaffixed.
A small bottle jack top presses into the wood, preventing slipping. It left about a 1/2" deep circular indent.
Again for the record (nothing pointed at anyone), small tree, about 20" across the cut, short for the girth, no wind, tight wedges the whole time.
It I blew out the seals from something unforeseeable, it wouldn't sit back. I would have gutted the hinge and pounded it over.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
I do the same, especially if cutting the hinge close to the COG, therefore less room for full length wedges.
chiselbit
Been here a while
Look at the Borntrager jacks. I really like mine. I have the 45 ton highjacker. I also have a salt creek, I think it’s 40 ton? It’s a good Jack also but of the 2 I prefer the Borntrager
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
That’s the point of the round pipe welded on the bottom, a good welder wouldn’t charge much more than a hour and likely not even for the scrap
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
I don’t know what shipping would cost, probably not too much in a USPS Flat-rate Box. I could make something like that up quick and easy here, probably cost about $25 + shipping if you wanted one. I just need to know the diameter of the jack piston, to make sure I use the right size pipe.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Thanks reach but no need! I can make one up myself as I have all the parts needed and a lil 110 wire feed.
Since I put the winch on the mini I have no need! The next project is to get (or make) a lil dozer blade that slips in the square tubing of the BMG!
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
Nice. Well if anyone else wants one, I have no problem making them up here in the shop.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
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