Tree removal help

You do realize none of us have ever seen this tree, right? An 80' maple could be 10" at 40' or it could be 30" at 40'. That would make a HUGE difference in your rope choice.

At this point in the discussion I would HYPOTHETICALLY recommend a 7/8 Husky Bull Line with a special order Amsteel jacket, which should put you somewhere near 50,000. And it should definitely be running to a GRCS with a custom Amsteel strap and a tungsten carbide bollard which has been diamond drilled and slotted by Hendricks Motorsports for optimal heat dissipation.

(Enter holy crap legal disclaimer here).... In no way should my previous post be construed as anything other than an encouragement to educate yourself on the basics of tree work and rigging physics. No warranties, whether expressed or implied, shall have been conferred, yada yada yada.

Learn about green weight. Then learn about ropes. Then learn how to climb, cuz a 40 foot bucket aint gonna cut it. THEN decide for yourself how big a piece you can take.

All the best.
 
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Hello all once agian,
I could really use some help, once agian. I realize there are a million ways to bring down a tree but, what I need help with is my current most used method. I have an f-450 with a 40 foot boom. Recently I took a job with one 80' foot elm and one 80' foot maple. The elm was surronded by obsticales by the grace of god I managed to get her on the ground but not all went smooth. In my current learning process I found I really need to learn two things. One: the proper method to tie an 80' tall limb at the hight of roughly 42 feet and allow that limb to remain hinged to the place where it was cut from and, what this method/knot is called. So far Im doing what Iv'e seen others do but In hind sight I'm seing now I need to study up a bit more. I tie the limb to the trunk. check. I leave a little bit of slack not much to keep from hitting it with the saw. check. Using the right tying method. fail. Extensive knowledge on the proper amount of rope strength and the right type, static? fail. If someone can point me to some illustrated instructions. Tell me the actuall name for this process and, school me on how to judge what is the right amount of breaking strength for the job. I'd be soo greatfull. The bull rope I had been using seemed strong enough. It was not. The knot I've been using basicly a few raps around the trunk and some half hitches has proved unreliable too. I know theres a better way if seen it. In trying to reflect back can't find it. Should have payed more attention. As far as rope strength vs. the load really haven't been able to find a thing. Taking down the stump I usually dont need a rope for. It's mainly if you can visualize for me. needs to hold up to 30-40 feet of the top of a tree cut slowly making a downward swing and not slip or break!

p.s. the toughest rope I've found locally has a rating of 3100 lbs. I'm really hoping it might be cut out for the job as I really need to finish this job tommorow.

Sincere thanks to any help I get in advance
Johan Greene
Bristol Tn tree removal Bristol tennessee tree service

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Before I respond, can you look at this drawing and tell me if this is what you are describing?

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Now try to guesstimate the weight of the log (white pine that had been outside for a while). Answer attached.
 

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Mr. Greene, I will try to respond with answers and treat you professionally. I just want to be sure this is what you are doing. IF not tell me how to adjust my drawing. Thanks, I'm going to bed.
 
I usually estimate the log weight, then multiply that by number of feet it free falls.

As long as my rigging meets that amount by a fair margin? I'm good.

Better to over estimate the forces than under estimate!

jomoco
 
Johan,

I think something else to consider is your willingness to implicitly accept the advice you seek from people on this site, people you have probably never met. The answers to your questions exist, but please consider carefully all the sources of your information and be very sure you have the truth before you put it to practice.

Sincerely,
GP
 
I would focus on learning how to tie a real knot before starting a tree care business...

AND...... I am dying to know what there is in the realm of treecare that I can learn from you, because lets be honest, I LOOOOOOVE LEARNING!

Keep in mind I already know how to tie a bowline and post pictures on the internet.
 
In all seriousness Greene, Legitimate, professional training whether arbormaster or North American training Solutions is not something to be considered, as caving in or admitting weakness but rather a valuable asset; something that can even be used as a selling point to customers. I would bet that everyone here who is suggesting that you go to training has been themselves. I went to Arbormaster 6 years ago. It catapulted my level of confidence and knowledge and has created a desire to continue my professional training annually.

In all honesty, you are probably starting out exactly how most of us did so disrespect at all. You might even solicit the help of a CTSP in your area. I'm not far, actually. You are welcome to join my crew in any of the safety training sessions we have. I will be hiring a top level Arborist/climber/safety pro to work with us annually starting this year.

I love this stuff. I'm just a student of the game.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Johan,

I think something else to consider is your willingness to implicitly accept the advice you seek from people on this site, people you have probably never met. The answers to your questions exist, but please consider carefully all the sources of your information and be very sure you have the truth before you put it to practice.

Sincerely,
GP

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Very good forum advice here.

Forums attract new people in this industry looking for knowledge. But unfortunately, the new guys really like to try to teach others that ask for help. You gotta know your forum characters and how long they've been around and who really knows their stuff.

It's been this way forever! New guy, says he's new to tree work, started on hurricane damage; then 6 months later he is advising anyone he can on the forum. Mostly regurgitating what he read in the previous 6 months and his little bit of work experience.

Mr. Greene, I try to write after work today. But another question, is there two ropes on the limb? Or is your lowering rope going to be the one locked off trying to keep the butt near the cut/ hinge location?

thanks, gotta run to work. Another Hi-Line rotten oak today! Yippie!
 
Dedicate 5 hours of your life to watching Daniels videos - then do the exact opposite and you should be fine!

The expression - a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing comes to mind when I look at this.

Too many times I've found myself thinking - well, it worked for him, or I saw this once and it looked OK. Maybe the first attempt at something you think you know works out, but more often than not, without seeing and asking what and how to do something precisely, things go wrong.

I applaud your willingness to ask the question and get advice. Doing your homework is an important first step, gaining practical hands on experience from a more experienced arborist should be your next.....
 
Tennarbor nailed it man. I rigged on guesswork for several years having watched others that were very patient with me. I also knew a large handful of knots from being in the Navy so it all helped but I had no idea of the risks I was taking. I took a one hour class with Ken Palmer called Understanding the Forces in Rigging and learned just what a good rigger I was...Not very good. I almost passed out in class when I recalled certain jobs and the people I could have killed and the gear I could have keel hauled. I had to go ALL the way back to the drawing board but my appetite for crow pie has helped SO much. <cue Cookie Monster>
JGreenie, I hope you can come to the Charlotte event in April. If you've never gone to a tree climbing championship, man you owe it to yourself to walk the "humility mile" with others. If you go, you'll be all "Man, Whiz, I owe you a LARGE beer!"
 
Mr. Greene,

This is not a pissing contest. You cannot expect an arborist forum to teach you how to safely dismantle a large tree in less than one month. These pros are tired of people with very little experience cutting off more than they can chew, getting hurt or killed and driving up business insurance and worker's comp costs for them. If you really want to learn tree work, why not go work for a pro for a year or so? Now is a good time to get on board with a professional outfit.

And go with matdand's estimation on rope breaking strength. At least 10 times the weight of the piece when shock loading. But I would be more concerned that the rigging point (part of the tree supporting the load or the whole tree) would fail. By the way, you'll only be able to use that super bull rope a few times before it fails if you keep shock loading it. It's called "cycles to failure."
 
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