Today....

By the way, that series of pictures is where I'm folding the tree, therefore it's face-cut toward the fence. I was able to step on the old stump/ fresh stumps from sprouts to face/ backcut toward the forest at roughly 8-9', with the full-gap face at about 2'. I had about 9'-10' to the fence. When this folded, the height of the tree was reduced by 10-12' off the butt, the ground held the force of the butt, not the rigging, and we were then able to manuever the rest of the tree into the 'hole' we had to work with.

A lot of folding of the trees.

It was interesting problem solving and little margin for error, but all went down smoothly. In-the-zone work. A lot of Rinse and Repeat, with variations on the theme.

With the rain and amount of work for the two of us, I didn't get good 'before' pics or many of steps of the operation.
 
I keep toying with the idea of filming to some more substantial extent, so feel free to (CRINGE) Like and Subscribe and click that Notification bell.

Young people, who I know, might enjoy editing videos for me...I certainly don't have the time.

Made a couple short videos for a feller on the TH who is breaking into SRT/ SRS...it was kinda fun and feels good to help some upcoming climbers.
 
Shaving the bark is obviously good for wedging as well in your area. Do you guys often find hidden branch stubs when cutting hinges?

I imagine how I face White Pines up here…up in the canopy, the internodal lengths are pretty consistent and clear. It would be odd to find one unless cutting at a node. I can imagine it much easier to come across one in super mature bark areas where nodes are less visible.

And right after mentioning it's fairly rare, I got a good one today! Field grown fir, pretty big, here in the hinge-wood you can see an old pruning cut and the stub that takes up a good 4" of the hinge. 3" inside the trunk wood, and with another 3" of bark outside that (I shaved most of it off before cutting the tree and taking that photo) but could see no indication of it before cutting the tree. No harm in this case, but amusing to see right after discussing it.

(putting some previously topped firs surrounding a house out of their misery here)

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And right after mentioning it's fairly rare, I got a good one today! Field grown fir, pretty big, here in the hinge-wood you can see an old pruning cut and the stub that takes up a good 4" of the hinge. 3" inside the trunk wood, and with another 3" of bark outside that (I shaved most of it off before cutting the tree and taking that photo) but could see no indication of it before cutting the tree. No harm in this case, but amusing to see right after discussing it.

(putting some previously topped firs surrounding a house out of their misery here)

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Thanks for the share. Those wedges look well used. I have a set of hard head that I like a lot, but I may just go with the full plastic when it’s time for a new set. These HH have lasted so long, I wonder if that time will ever come…
 
I've tried lots of different wedges and this is what seems to work best for me. These six live in the wedge belt at all times and work for every tree I come across except for the rare truly big ones. I wedge over a lot of trees and wedges are just another consumable like fuel or saw chain, so I stock plenty of spares.

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I've tried lots of different wedges and this is what seems to work best for me. These six live in the wedge belt at all times and work for every tree I come across except for the rare truly big ones. I wedge over a lot of trees and wedges are just another consumable like fuel or saw chain, so I stock plenty of spares.

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Looks like you run a pretty tight ship!
 
I am a fan of Put On Ground Only jobs. The customers will burn the brush in the family fire pit and use the trunked for firewood and turning bowls.


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These 4 cherries broke apart in a recent storm. One failed. Butted up to the failed cherry was an upright cherry with a Phaeolus schweintzii conk on it.

I just confirmed that cherry can sometimes be infected with it.

Started today, solo, for 3 hours. Got them rigged with double- whip tackle and regular self- lowering. Rotten in the trunks where the broke out when younger.
We'll finish them tomorrow morning, quickly.

Nice job for repeat customers.
 
Honestly, in my area winters are quite mild, this only happens a few times a year and only for a few days. Other parts of the country they work in snow and below freezing for months at a time. No thanks on that for me.

More downed trees though after exploring the island end to end, including a pretty huge mess blocking an entire road that is like 5 uprooted trees tangled together. Probably deal with it tomorrow. Snow is melting rapidly as temps rise and rain continues.

And also got the Milwaukee battery pole saw just today while checking the roads. After a few days I'll share some thoughts. I've got the most powerful Stihl gas, and the Husky, which I've never been super happy with. So plenty to compare it to.

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How do you like the new milwaukee?
 
How do you like the new milwaukee?

Today was actually the first day I had a job to use it on, so thus far sample size is very small.

That said, my first impression just lifting it out of the box was the thing was HEAVY. Surprisingly so. If I'd held one in person prior to buying it, I honestly may have never spent the money in the first place. The kit with the saw, 12ah battery and charger is like $800. But I was frustrated with the Husky and bought the Milwaukee over the internet (home depot) based on seeing some videos of its cutting performance which were and are impressive.

I've had the battery telescoping Husky for like 2 years (?) now and it's pretty weak, wont even start spinning when it senses the slightest resistance (like, if its touching a 1/4" branch it won't even spin up). My initial impressions of that was also serious disappointment, but it's served me quite well since then to be honest. You just have to have the chain in the air and get it spinning before laying into ANY wood, even the smallest of twigs. Kind of sucks when trying to cut in tight spaces when there is ANY twig interference. It will also bog down and stop cutting if you push it just a little to hard, which is a hazard on critical cuts. The Milwaukee on the other hand is an absolute powerhouse, you can literally lay it on a log and pull the trigger, and it will just start digging through it. This has some serious benefits, but if they are enough to make up for the extra weight is still to be determined.
 
I tried a new rope washing way instead of dirtying the bathtub or washing machine.

Using a similar bin, I sprayed the rope while filling, then, once filled, vigorously rocked the bin from one bottom edge to the opposite bottom edge, on the ground. Rinse and repeat several times.

Mine was more chocolate milk-colored after a muddy removal job at the forest edge where there was basically leaf-litter covering covering clay-ish soil.
 
I tried a new rope washing way instead of dirtying the bathtub or washing machine.

Using a similar bin, I sprayed the rope while filling, then, once filled, vigorously rocked the bin from one bottom edge to the opposite bottom edge, on the ground. Rinse and repeat several times.

Mine was more chocolate milk-colored after a muddy removal job at the forest edge where there was basically leaf-litter covering covering clay-ish soil.
Well, yea, with the mud, I would assume that would happen. What's weird to me is the milky white stuff coming from a fundamentally new, rope. I had three clean oak climbs, 95% SRT, and I had that milky exudate, which is what the manufacturer says you will see. I am curious what that stuff is, and why other ropes haven't done that for me.
 

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